Current list of best strobes/ lighting?

Current gear:
Canon 6D
100mm L macro
24-105mm L


So, I am currently saving up for strobes right now.
I had alienbees a while back and sold them because I wasn't using them.
I will be needing to learn and grow with these strobes since I plan to do this professionally some day.

Ideally I want to be under $1500-2000 with an outdoor powerpack or two. Wireless trigger as well?

Things I will be shooting.


Cars, Still shots at night or during the day but want to use strobes for doomsday/dark background effect.

Bands, Same as above
Indoor portraits
Outdoor portraits
Skateboarding, day and night also indoors
Concerts indoors

Things I was looking:

2x Einstein 640s with the outdoor new powerpack + extra battery.

Would put me around 1500.


I'm wondering if there is something better for the price or maybe same price but newer technology? I loved Paul C buffs stuff I owned before so.

If you don't mind the weight and you need a model light for indoor shoot it's a nice solution.
Or you could take a look at the Cheetah Light CL.

But take also in consideration that you could have issue on overcame the strong daylight during summer using a strobe less powerfull then 1600 W instead of using a speedlight that support HSS but used at more closed distance.

Nick Aufiero wrote in post #16957360
Current gear:
Ideally I want to be under $1500-2000 with an outdoor powerpack or two. Wireless trigger as well?

Things I was looking:

2x Einstein 640s with the outdoor new powerpack + extra battery.

Would put me around 1500.

Lightweight and compact:
Cheetah CL-360/Godox Wistro 360
Quantum/Lumedyne mount.

Cable-less
and color control (Broncolor, Einstein 640 and Rimelite i - http://hasselbladbron.​com …temperature-control-ectc/ ):
Rime Lite i2/i4/i6
Bowens Type S mount

Power
and lightweight head:
Jinbei Discovery DC-1200
Bowens Type S mount

Over powering the sun is a relative term.
I routinely shoot outside on sunny days with a CL-360 and the 18" foldable beauty dish. Often the power setting, with the strobe about 10 feet from the subject is about 1/4 power or less. I like to put the subject in the shade, then get the sunny background about one or two stops over. If I have the subject in the sun with it behind them I still have sufficient power, either by moving the light closer or by upping the power.

Whether using ND filters or another method to get larger apertures, one first has to get the proper balance between sunlight exposure and flash exposure. Then just add ND strength to adjust EV based on opening aperture.

If you want to use HyperSync/H mode/ HSS approach its still the same situation. Taking into consideration that the FP-sync and long burn require spreading the power over a longer time frame which adds to total power requirement.