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Thread started 21 Jun 2014 (Saturday) 08:57
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Simulating the ND filter, long exposure effect using HDR software

 
hairy_moth
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Jun 21, 2014 08:57 |  #1

I wanted to see how combining multiple exposures using HDR software would work for simulating the effect obtained using an ND filter and very long exposures.

I had a few handicaps:

  • The G1X camera I keep with me all the time only shuts down to f/16, so on this day the longest, properly exposed shot I could get was 1/4 second.
  • The HDR software allows a maximum of 34 component shots (more than enough for HDR, but not for this). So I ended up with what looks like an 8.5 second exposure.


I walk by this location every day on my way to work. I was going to wait for a day with interesting light and/or clouds to try this, but I went ahead yesterday morning anyway.


Below is the final result and one of the 34 component shots. Each of the 34 component shots was taken at f/16, 1/4 second, ISO 100 using a G1X.


IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14471452874_d1885860b5_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/o3MY​Lb  (external link)
IMG_1494And33more_fuse​d (external link) by hairy_moth (external link), on Flickr


IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3867/14286184507_babd89624c_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/nLqq​VZ  (external link)
IMG_1494 (external link) by hairy_moth (external link), on Flickr

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KirkS518
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Jun 21, 2014 19:52 |  #2

All things considered, I think you achieved what you were trying to accomplish. Looks good to me!


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Jun 21, 2014 22:40 |  #3

Good idea!


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Hot ­ Bob
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Jun 21, 2014 22:54 |  #4

You lost a lot of detail in the background buildings. I would load the two photos shown here on separate layers in photoshop and use a layer mask to combine them.

Bob


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Charlie
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Jun 22, 2014 00:35 |  #5

would this still work if you're in need of hdr bulb exposures?


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hairy_moth
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Jun 22, 2014 12:57 |  #6

Thank for for the comments. This was really just a proof of concept; this shot will never see paper.

I do plan to go back and see if the loss of details was due to pilot error: I was using the G1X on a Gorilla Pod (not the firmest foundation to start with). The camera has a mode where it will take 10 shots on a timer, I set it up for 10 shots, 1 a second, it is possible that the first one of some of the 10 shot sets had some camera shake as I hit the shutter release on the first 1/4 second exposure.

I suspect that if I am somewhere with my gear and I see a shot that I want to do with a long exposure, I will still use the tripod and ND filter. But I keep the G1X and a gorilla pod in my briefcase (or backpack) with me most of the time; this looks like a pretty good option for when I see something and I don't have my gear bag.


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Radtech1
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Jun 22, 2014 22:28 |  #7

Great Idea! I like the final result. Which HDR software did you use?

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hairy_moth
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Jun 23, 2014 07:33 |  #8

I use Photomatrix and like it a lot. It provides a wealth of presets that makes it very easy to get started with HDR and get good results right out of the box.

In this case, however, I did not use an HDR preset; I went straight into the 'Exposure Fusion Process' settings and chose 'average.'

Charlie, I don't know what HDR Bulb is, so I'm pretty confident that you don't need it. Here I just took 34 shots (more actually, but that is what Photomatrix limited me to) and averaged them. Photomatrix does also align the shots in case the camera moved slightly while taking the group; in this case I used a tripod, but most of my HDR shots are taken without a tripod. For HDR I normally put the camera in AEB mode and choose "High Speed" drive which, in AEB mode, takes exactly 3 bracketed shots, very quickly, with a single press of the shutter release.


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edge100
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Jun 23, 2014 13:39 |  #9

Cool, though a bit of a solution in search of a problem.

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …ers/ci/16773/N/​4026728351 (external link)


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Jun 23, 2014 14:40 |  #10

edge100 wrote in post #16989796 (external link)
Cool, though a bit of a solution in search of a problem.

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …ers/ci/16773/N/​4026728351 (external link)



Yup, I have a set of about 6 filters that I keep in my camera bag, along with my DSLR, lenses and some flashes. And, when I go out with plans to shoot, I have them with me. But I don't keep that 15+ pound bag of gear with me at all times; I do keep a compact camera and a gorilla pod in my backpack or briefcase (pretty much) everywhere I go; so when a opportunity presents itself...

And, BTW, check the prices:
10 stop filters (external link)
Photomatrix (external link).

It is not a perfect solution, but it is and option for the times I don't have my filters with me (which, as I go about my daily routine, is most of the time). That is what I was looking for and, thought others might be interested in too.


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Jun 23, 2014 14:51 |  #11

I'm confused, you shot 34 frames all at f/16, 1/4s, ISO100 and then merged them all together?

Isn't HDR supposed to be bracketed exposures to achieve the the range?


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hairy_moth
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Jun 23, 2014 14:59 |  #12

DisrupTer911 wrote in post #16989947 (external link)
I'm confused, you shot 34 frames all at f/16, 1/4s, ISO100 and then merged them all together?

Isn't HDR supposed to be bracketed exposures to achieve the the range?

Yes, that is what HDR software is intended for; I used it differently.
For HDR, I normally load 3 shots with ev -1.67, 0, +1.67, sometimes more shots, the ev range range changes too depending on what I am shooting.

But in this case, I used the software differently. when I loaded the shots, I told the software that they all had ev:0. I also chose the 'average' process type which seems to do pretty much what I hoped/expected it would do: for each pixel in the aligned images, add the RGB values all together, divide by the number of component shots and store the result.


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Jun 23, 2014 18:10 |  #13

hairy_moth wrote in post #16989010 (external link)
Charlie, I don't know what HDR Bulb is, so I'm pretty confident that you don't need it. Here I just took 34 shots (more actually, but that is what Photomatrix limited me to) and averaged them. Photomatrix does also align the shots in case the camera moved slightly while taking the group; in this case I used a tripod, but most of my HDR shots are taken without a tripod. For HDR I normally put the camera in AEB mode and choose "High Speed" drive which, in AEB mode, takes exactly 3 bracketed shots, very quickly, with a single press of the shutter release.

well, thats what I mean.

1. I want a bulb shot
2. I want it in HDR since I cant take filters for my samyang 14.

essentially, I want to average a bunch of hdr shots... would that be possible? I would give it a try, but dont know if I can setup an intervalometer with bracketing. Anything to avoid filters on that lens, I'm willing to experiment. I already have a rather complete 100mm filter set, with the exception of that lens.


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Jun 23, 2014 22:02 |  #14

I found a mode on the G1 X that allows me to take 10 shots on an interval: I chose 1 shot each second and did that several times.

But, this isn't rocket science (it doesn't need to be extremely precise), I think multiple exposures using a simple cable release or remote control would be worth a try.

Also, even though I used HDR software, I didn't do any bracketing: these shots were all taken with the exact same settings.


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Jun 23, 2014 22:10 |  #15

I'm not clear at what you are aiming at here, and what your shots show...?

You say you are aiming for the effect of an 8-second exposure, similating what you could get from an ND filter, right?

If you really want to test that out, wouldn't you want to get a "shot" of, say, some moving water? I couldn't tell that your two shots were showing, maybe a little bit of cloud movement?


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Simulating the ND filter, long exposure effect using HDR software
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