Sekonic L-758DR w/5dMkIII and 600EX-RT

A long time ago, I used to use an incident meter. But I've since gotten used to the internal meters on Canon cameras. And, of course, with digital photography, that allows us to bracket freely to be "sure" about exposure.
However, I've been "looking" at the Sekonic L-758DR for a while and thinking about some of the potential benefits for an incident meter and a "better" spot meter. Also, even though it won't trigger the 600's, it will still be a flash meter....and that's something I never had!!
However, I only have 600EX-RT flashes, so the triggering advantage/feature of the meter would do nothing for me.
Is the exposure metering alone worth it?
Anyone have any experience using the meter as "just" a light meter rather than triggering a flash.
Thanks.

I use my L-358 all the time as a flash meter without using it to trigger the flash. You can enable flash metering and then use your camera's trigger to fire the flashes. Of course, if you're using E-TTL, flash metering is moot. But if you're in situations where lighting is uneven, your camera's meter is easier to fool than an incident meter at the subject position. Similarly, if you're in a studio setting using constant lighting you can set levels easier with the incident meter at subject position.

Jon wrote in post #16989661
I use my L-358 all the time as a flash meter without using it to trigger the flash. You can enable flash metering and then use your camera's trigger to fire the flashes. Of course, if you're using E-TTL, flash metering is moot. But if you're in situations where lighting is uneven, your camera's meter is easier to fool than an incident meter at the subject position. Similarly, if you're in a studio setting using constant lighting you can set levels easier with the incident meter at subject position.

Thanks! Great feedback.
Just wondering....it doesn't seem like too many people are "impacted" by this, though....??

Mainly people who are shooting in controlled situations, or for critical work. Joe Shooter is probably getting E-TTL flash units and relying on post-processing for extreme contrast ranges in constant light rather than trying to get the scene to be within the limits of their sensor's capture capabilities.

Unless you're swimming in money, a more basic model will do just fine. Or for a little more advanced, you can find a used 558 for like 250-300$ that's just as good as the 758.

Good idea.
I'll look into that.
Thx.