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Thread started 02 Jul 2014 (Wednesday) 21:31
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Should i send my 50L in?

 
DJHaze596
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Jul 02, 2014 21:31 |  #1

Recently got the Canon 50mm 1.2 L and i'm loving it a lot but i had to micro adjust it -20 to get proper focus. My issue is when i take far shots, Most of them are out of focus where the close up shots are perfect. Is this an issue that should be fixed by canon or should i try to Micro Adjust again? I did two attempts using Dot Tune in Magic Lantern and Remotely using EOS utility to give a decent result.


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CircuitR
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Jul 02, 2014 21:58 |  #2

That sounds way out of whack. I'd see if you could have another copy if you brought it new. Otherwise I'd send it in.
Now standby for the Sigma fanboys saying trade it in for a Sigma Art lol.:P


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AlanU
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Jul 02, 2014 22:46 |  #3

pay for a calibration and be prepared to ship back many times. Nature of the beast.


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DJHaze596
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Jul 02, 2014 22:54 |  #4

CircuitR wrote in post #17008500 (external link)
That sounds way out of whack. I'd see if you could have another copy if you brought it new. Otherwise I'd send it in.
Now standby for the Sigma fanboys saying trade it in for a Sigma Art lol.:P

I got it new from B&H with the rebate already submitted, I don't know if i can get swapped for another one.


Canon 1DX | EF 17-40 f4L | EF 50 STM | EF 85 f1.8 | EF 70-200 f2.8L IS II
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AlanU
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Jul 02, 2014 23:01 as a reply to  @ DJHaze596's post |  #5

The 50L is a lens I would only purchase locally where you can test many copies. I personally would never buy that lens online. The variance from copy to copy is high.

You'll need to test for wideopen sharpness and then stop down to see if you get back focus in the 5 foot range.


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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Charlie
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Jul 02, 2014 23:22 |  #6

Did you use 50x FL to MFA? That lens needs a little bit of working distance, DOF too shallow when shooting close and wide open.


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DJHaze596
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Jul 02, 2014 23:36 |  #7

Charlie wrote in post #17008641 (external link)
Did you use 50x FL to MFA? That lens needs a little bit of working distance, DOF too shallow when shooting close and wide open.

I did all kinds of test including one at 30 feet distance, -20 seems to work the best for short to mid range shots, But anything beyond that is very hard to get a sharp shot. here is an example from today's Sunset below, It just seems soft to me compare to other primes i have had but to be honest, i just returned the 50mm f1.4 because of an issue like this but it was a lot worse, nothing was in focus no matter how i Micro Adjusted it.

https://www.mediafire.​com/?loa4a4sxjdwc717 (external link)


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Charlie
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Jul 03, 2014 00:08 |  #8

well the scene is backlit, and quite frankly, the 6D outer point isnt really cut out for that.


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DJHaze596
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Jul 03, 2014 00:52 |  #9

Charlie wrote in post #17008681 (external link)
well the scene is backlit, and quite frankly, the 6D outer point isnt really cut out for that.

Shouldn't matter, I don't have a focus issue with the 6D whether i use the Center point or the outer points and i did exactly that with the sunset, I took a good 20 Pictures using each focus point individually, I even adjusted the shutter for shaky hands, I pretty much did everything and all the pictures are exactly the same in terms of focus. It's front focusing due to the -20 Micro Adjust, Look at the water in the foreground or the right side of the image. It's much sharper even though i focused on the Houses in the distance.

So looking at that image, To shoot Landscapes, I need to leave it at 0, but for Portrait Work, I need to do -20. I shouldn't have to do that.

Edit: Just tried my 135L and it does the exact same thing, Could it be the Camera??? Right now both lenses are set to -24 which gives perfect focus on my Girlfriend's eye Wide Open and when stopped down, its even better. Now i go to shoot the Amazon font on their Box and its soft. Doesn't matter the distance whether i'm up close or far away although far away is a lot worse. I than switched back to Default 0 and now The Amazon Font is tack sharp. But now i go to take a picture of my Girlfriend's Eye and its back Focusing. I'm taking the center focusing point and aiming it exactly in the center of her eye ball. and the eye lashes to the left of her eye ie towards the side of her face are tack sharp while her eye ball is soft. I just don't get it. So frustrating.


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DJHaze596
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Jul 03, 2014 10:45 |  #10

Any Suggestions? Should a Micro Adjust a Different way? Could it be the Camera since my results on both lenses were -24?


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Elton ­ Balch
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Jul 03, 2014 10:59 as a reply to  @ DJHaze596's post |  #11

I'm certainly not a micro focus expert, but -24 just seems like a lot especially with two separate lenses and the additional issues you described. You may want to consider a reset of the 6D to factory settings and then re calibrate your lenses. A reset will wipe out any custom settings so take that into consideration. I'd also check for firmware updates. Based on what you've posted so far I'd question that the two separate lenses are the issue.


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AlanU
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Jul 03, 2014 13:51 |  #12

Does your 16-35 also having the exact back focus issues? 300mm?? If so it certainly sound like a body calibration issue.


5Dmkiv |5Dmkiii | 24LmkII | 85 mkII L | | 16-35L mkII | 24-70 f/2.8L mkii| 70-200 f/2.8 ISL mkII| 600EX-RT x2 | 580 EX II x2 | Einstein's
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InfiniteDivide
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Post edited over 8 years ago by InfiniteDivide.
     
Jul 03, 2014 15:57 |  #13

While I have never needed a +/1 24 MFA I have done extensive tests with my primes.
My 24L and 100L both needed exactly a +5 adjustment. Strange that they are the exact same?
Therefore, I think my 6D is specs to (-5) from Canon, and within their acceptable range.
So those lenses are spot on and my camera body is a little off.
By adjusting the lenses, everything is zeroed out and very sharp.

With my 50L it needed exactly (0), MFA. I believe that doesn't mean my copy is perfect.
But rather, it is back focusing by -5 and my body is spec-ed to -5. A perfect 'match'
On all three lenses I have tried 'readjusting' a month later to just +/- 1 MFA and non show improvement.

These are just my own personal opinions and experiences. Other may vary greatly.
If you send you body in and get it checks and re calibrated, you will NEED to 're MFA' all your lenses you don't send to canon.
PS: Given the costs or shipping a labor, perhap you could sell the 6D and get a brand new 5D III if desired?
I personally love my 6D, but if it needed expensive calibration I may consider other options.
If you considering it even a little it may be better before investing more money into the 6D.


James Patrus
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moltengold
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Jul 03, 2014 16:43 |  #14

i always use my all lenses without using the MFA
MFA is like a Headache


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InfiniteDivide
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Jul 03, 2014 19:03 |  #15

^ I would highly recommend it. It can make your best primes even better.
I had zero issue with my 100L and the images were sharp.
After comparing test shots at +0 and +5, all of the shots were EVEN sharper at +5 Win - Win

Fastest way: Set up a tripod outside and use a water bottle as your target.
Frame the photos as your intend to use the lens. May not be exactly 50x FL
Snap three shots each at -10, 0 and +10 refocusing without LV each time.

Do each prime lens and take a random photo inbetween lens swaps (my hand) to stay organized.
Then compare on your computer. If your want perfection, try +5 and -5 next and review images again.
Total time one afternoon: 1 hour outside and 30 minutes reviewing,
another 30 minutes retesting outside and a final 30 minutes re-reviewing images.

Definitely worth it. Now that it's done I will never do it again until I get a new camera body.


James Patrus
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Should i send my 50L in?
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