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Thread started 03 Jul 2014 (Thursday) 15:50
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How to get rid of harsh light in a photo

 
Fortus
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Jul 03, 2014 15:50 |  #1

Hello all, first of all thanks for taking your time reading.

My problem is when i shoot macro in sunlight, i get these harsh white spots in my image.
Example:

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7119/13900539045_5f176b93a5_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://www.flickr.com …97084477@N05/13​900539045/  (external link)
Red damselfly (Pyrrhosoma nymphula) (external link) by Frank Corbey (external link), on Flickr

I normally dont use a flash with sunlight but I got a flash bracket containing a 430 ex ii and a lumiquest mini softbox (wich is not showing on the picture).

IMAGE: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2897/13905736161_de15c19ddd_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://www.flickr.com …97084477@N05/13​905736161/  (external link)
Macro setup 03-2014 (external link) by Frank Corbey (external link), on Flickr

As i allready did some research even with sunlight its best to use flash? With FEC -1 /-2/3 (-0,66)?

Any hits and tips are welcome!

Thank you in advance.

Frank
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Dalantech
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Jul 03, 2014 15:56 |  #2

You're probably shooting in harsh, noon day sun. Try shooting when there is a light overcast, or early in the morning / late in the evening when the light is softer and more diffused.

tl;dr Shoot in better light ;)


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LordV
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Jul 04, 2014 00:47 |  #3

If you can't shoot with better light conditions then you can try a few things.

temporarily shading them with your body can sometimes work but will often spook the bugs- I do a quick test on them to see how bothered they are by shading them for a second or two. Obviously if there are a few clouds around you could wait for some natural shade.
If you can shade them then you can either shoot in shaded natural light or use the flash setup.

Using a CPL filter can help a bit by reducing the intensity of the hot spots if you can't shade them.

You could try using the camera in manual and use High speed sync flash so the ambient light gives at least 2 stops underexposure- I suspect you will still get slight bright spots from the sun but they should be reduced.

Having said all that I actually don't find the bright spots in your picture that objectionable - just shows it was a bright sunny day

Brian V.


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Fortus
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Jul 04, 2014 08:50 |  #4

Thank you allot Dalantech and Brian, I've tested and i'm really pleased wih the results!


Frank
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Poyatos
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Jul 07, 2014 17:24 |  #5

Another option is to diffuse the harsh sunlight with some form of net or transparency material. Silkscreen mesh is pretty good for this as it can be stretched onto a thin frame. I then attach this onto my Wimberley clamp. It's not a very practical solution, especially if you're in the field but it does work.

Anyway, glad to hear that you've tested and that you're pleased with the results! Look forward to seeing the fruits of your labour.


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orionmystery
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Jul 08, 2014 22:42 |  #6

When shooting with just natural light, I use a small diffuser and/or reflector:

http://orionmystery.bl​ogspot.com …users-and-reflectors.html (external link)

http://orionmystery.bl​ogspot.com …users-and-reflectors.html (external link)

As for FEC, it depends on the "scene":

http://orionmystery.bl​ogspot.com …ompensation-in-macro.html (external link)


Kurt
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Dalantech
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Jul 09, 2014 14:33 |  #7

orionmystery wrote in post #17020077 (external link)
As for FEC, it depends on the "scene":

http://orionmystery.bl​ogspot.com …ompensation-in-macro.html (external link)

Just noticed you're using a 40D Kurt. That camera has a terrible light meter and will give you very inconstant results if there is nothing in the background to reflect the E-TTL preflash back into the camera. I can take a shot of the same scene with a 40D and a 1D MkIII, one that is going to have a black background due to flash fall off, and the 1D MkIII will nail the exposure almost every frame. The 40D's exposures will be all over the place...


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orionmystery
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Jul 09, 2014 20:49 |  #8

Dalantech wrote in post #17021212 (external link)
Just noticed you're using a 40D Kurt. That camera has a terrible light meter and will give you very inconstant results if there is nothing in the background to reflect the E-TTL preflash back into the camera. I can take a shot of the same scene with a 40D and a 1D MkIII, one that is going to have a black background due to flash fall off, and the 1D MkIII will nail the exposure almost every frame. The 40D's exposures will be all over the place...

Yeah, it's not very good, even with background. Luckily with really diffused light, I can pull down the exposure by more than one stop and it's still okay!


Kurt
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How to get rid of harsh light in a photo
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