YongNuo YN-622C/YN-622C-TX Controller Triggers 2

BMS,

You should have basic E-TTL functionality but not remote manual control with the 622s. Make sure the on-camera 622 is not in mix mode (channel light constantly on). The TX, with a custom function, allows remote manual settings on older flashes including the 580EX.

bms259 wrote in post #17107376
So will I be able to control FEC and manual power from the TX?

Yes, but you can also do it with just a 7D and 580EX using the Canon optical system.

bms259 wrote in post #17107321
What kind of control does the TX offer for me using a Canon 580EX? Right now I'm using a 622C on a Canon 7D and on a 580EX, but any changes I make to the flash (either FEC in E-TTL or manual power changes) I have to set on the flash.

The C-TX has a custom function 05 (EX Compatibility). It provides Manual output levels on 380EX, 430EX, 550EX and 580EX. This trick requires the flash itself to be set to E-TTL so that its command set can be used in a way not intended by Canon.

More detail in TOYUG v.4.08 p.45 (link in signature).

Question,

If I get the 622C-TX will I be able to use my alienbee 1600 and get SS to work with my 5D mark III. What's the max shutter speed I can use if it will work.

Jcr918 wrote in post #17108398
Question,

If I get the 622C-TX will I be able to use my alienbee 1600 and get SS to work with my 5D mark III. What's the max shutter speed I can use if it will work.

It should work up to max SS in theory, but you'd have to experiment with the delay.

Hi, today i tested 1DX with YN622TX and Canon 600EX with YN622C (old firmware), with TTL no correct exposition , all shots have a overexposed light,, any more with this trouble?, the problem not corrected with 1 unit of TX at camera? i need replace all units of YN622C??

P.S.: Sorry for my english.

Did some more testing on SS today.

Camera Bodies used: 6D and 40D
Lights: YN568EX mounted on hot shoe of YN622C and Elinchrom Master RX 600 connected to YN622C with PC Sync cable
Trigger: YN622C-TX running firmware version 1.04
Receiver: YN622C - 04/2013 make
Shutter Speeds tested: 40D - 1/2000, 1/4000, 1/8000 and 6D - 1/2000, 1/4000
Gr on TX - Gr A - SS, Gr B & C - OFF

Test 1: 40D+TX and YN622C+YN568EX @ full power
SS = 0.0 -> Clean Frame
SS = 1.0 -> Black Band - Bottom 50%
SS = 2.0 -> Black Band - Bottom 75%

Test 2: 6D+TX and YN622C+YN568EX @ full power
SS = 0.0 -> Black Band - Bottom 50%
SS = 1.0 -> Black Band - Bottom 75-80%
SS = 2.0 -> Complete Black Frame

If I just enable HSS and leave the Gr A in M mode in TX I am getting clean frame at both 1/2000 & 1/4000!!

Test 3: 40D+TX and YN622C+Elinchrom Master RX 600 @ full power (6.5)
Clean Frame with Gradient at all SS settings

Test 4: 6D+TX and YN622C+Elinchrom Master RX 600 @ full power (6.5)
Clean Frame with Gradient at all SS settings

Guru_rb wrote in post #17114449
Did some more testing on SS today.

Camera Bodies used: 6D and 40D
Lights: YN568EX mounted on hot shoe of YN622C and Elinchrom Master RX 600 connected to YN622C with PC Sync cable
Trigger: YN622C-TX running firmware version 1.04
Receiver: YN622C - 04/2013 make
Shutter Speeds tested: 40D - 1/2000, 1/4000, 1/8000 and 6D - 1/2000, 1/4000
Gr on TX - Gr A - SS, Gr B & C - OFF

Test 1: 40D+TX and YN622C+YN568EX @ full power
SS = 0.0 -> Clean Frame
SS = 1.0 -> Black Band - Bottom 50%
SS = 2.0 -> Black Band - Bottom 75%

Test 2: 6D+TX and YN622C+YN568EX @ full power
SS = 0.0 -> Black Band - Bottom 50%
SS = 1.0 -> Black Band - Bottom 75-80%
SS = 2.0 -> Complete Black Frame

If I just enable HSS and leave the Gr A in M mode in TX I am getting clean frame at both 1/2000 & 1/4000!!

Test 3: 40D+TX and YN622C+Elinchrom Master RX 600 @ full power (6.5)
Clean Frame with Gradient at all SS settings

Test 4: 6D+TX and YN622C+Elinchrom Master RX 600 @ full power (6.5)
Clean Frame with Gradient at all SS settings

I had a bit of a test yesterday, with my Lencarta Safari2, on the 7d.

I get inconsistent banding with SS, which I can't live with, some frames acceptable, some frames not. But I can use a 3 stop ND and get consistent results at 1/200 overpowering the ambient by a good 2 stops on a bright afternoon. Given this is what I bought the flash for, and I don't want to be arsing about in front of a customer, the 3 stop is going to be my chosen option going forward.

Phil V wrote in post #17114533
I had a bit of a test yesterday, with my Lencarta Safari2, on the 7d.

I get inconsistent banding with SS, which I can't live with, some frames acceptable, some frames not. But I can use a 3 stop ND and get consistent results at 1/200 overpowering the ambient by a good 2 stops on a bright afternoon. Given this is what I bought the flash for, and I don't want to be arsing about in front of a customer, the 3 stop is going to be my chosen option going forward.

Mine as well. I cant get the contrast in the background with HSS as well as I can with ND's so im doing to same. to easy to slap them on.

Sorry for this question as I know it has been answered before but I can't seem to find it. I'm finally going to get an Einstein and am going to need the cable to connect my 622c's. Can someone tell me which cable it is please. Thanks.

krispyk wrote in post #17115555
Sorry for this question as I know it has been answered before but I can't seem to find it. I'm finally going to get an Einstein and am going to need the cable to connect my 622c's. Can someone tell me which cable it is please. Thanks.

PC-sync to Jack 3,5mm

Very big Thank You iituner!

I received the TX the other day.. out of the box i dont know what firmware i have but so far it works flawlessly for what i need it to do.

I dont use ettl or hss what so ever but i have used it and experimented in the past.. not really my style. i like to use manual settings and the reason i got this unit is to avoid going through the camera menus to dial my power up or down kinda what like the Pocket Wizard AC3 does.

Everything works fine but what i find confusing, not that its a huge deal, is when i dial the flash power by thirds on the TX. For example, If im at 1/16 power display on both the TX and flash and i dial the flash down by a third stop, my TX displays 1/32 +0.7. Remember i dialed it -0.3 on 1/16 which is displayed on the flash unit. In the end it all means the same thing its actually the same value (power) and once it reaches the full stop, the display on both the TX and flash head match. Maybe its just programming and its something i need to get use to.. I kinda dont want to upgrade my TX afraid something will not work as its working flawlessly as it is now. But these are small tests.. soon i will be doing a photo shoot in which i will have all 4 of my flashes working with the TX.. hopefully flawless sticks with it.

As i said, i dont know what firmware version my TX has and all my 4 yn622c units were bought this past March 2014. The box for the 622c's says V1.1 if that means anything. idk when they were actually manufactured.

i have tried the TX on both my 5d2 and 550d with both my Canon 430exII and 580exII successfully controlling the dials and modes from the TX and firing (zoom as well). Also firing both my YN560I and yes we should all know that this unit is manual only unit but all i need it to do is fire, eventually ill upgrade but not in a rush lol.


so thats it.. this is the only thing i see so far.. just an observation. im not sure if anyone noticed plus i have not read all the way to the beginning of this thread yet..

TX Display---Canon Flash Display

1/16............1/16
1/32+0.7.....1/16-0.3
1/32+0.3.....1/16-0.7
1/32............1/32
output value is the same
just that the numbers dont match on the screens but again it means the same..

Thx

Isaac: To determine what firmware version you're using is very easy. Turn the Tx OFF, hold down the MODE switch and turn back on. The screen will light and show three lines:

yn
622
1.04 UP

The last line is the one you want to know. Depending on what's actually installed, it may say 1.01 FU, 1.02 FU, 1.03 FU or 1.04 UP. There was a small upgrade concurrent with v1.03 which changed the FU to UP, in deference to those who may be offended by the connotations of FU. This is now incorporated in v1.04 (and subsequent, we expect).

To find out when your unit(s) were made is even simpler. Open the battery compartment and, on the ridge between the batteries (next to the embossed serial number) is a round white sticker. Year of manufacture (err, that'll be 2014 for all Tx units thus far :lol is in the centre and round the circumference are the months. One of these will be crossed out - that's when yours was/were made. Is all. Here's the label on one of my 622Cs (made Sept 2012) - my Txs have all been opened when doing the pix in the manual so I can't show you that - but it's exactly the same position on the Tx.

Upgrading the firmware is also very easy. It's all explained in Cliveyboy's manual TOYUG, now on v4.08, with a link in his and my signature lines (below).

Hello everyone, sorry in advance for bad English.

I have problems with 622c tranceivers. Have them few days.

My gear:

Canon 70d
Eos M
3 x 622C, recently purchased, 1 from diff ebay shop than other two.
2 X Nissin Di700
1 x Godox TT680
1 X Nissin i40 on camera/transmitter.

I initially used them in a job, and noticed very inconsistent results.

So decided to test them. Initially, I had about 50% success, then i found the 156 page thread here, read it almost all. Then decided to do some extensive test, spent almost a whole day. Test place was my living room with, with closed doors and only minor lighting with economy lamps, so i can easily judge results . My preperation:

- Replaced Nimh batteries with new IKEA Alcalines (tested with voltometer before use).
- Clear all contacts of speedlites, tranceivers and camera.
- Used good Ni-mh batteries in speedlites, also used external battery packs in all of them.
- Switched off all wi-fi devices, also my cell phone.
- Camera on tripod.
- Nissin i40 on transmitter as group A, 1st Di700 as group B bouncing ceiling, 2nd Di700 as group C hitting away wall, at - 1.5 EV.

Now I am getting about 70% succesfull exposures. On camera flash always fires, other two sometimes either overexpose or not fire at all. Actually, within this 30% failure, group B usually doesn't fire at all, group C either doesn't fire or overexposes very much.

Have tried:

- Use different channel. Actualy, I tested ALL of them.
- Switch every 622c as commander, also doing a reset every time. Must mention again that 1 unit is bought seperately, so chances i have units from bad batch is minor.
- Use 70d, also use eos M.
- Tried diff iso/shutters speed/ aperture settings.
- Use Godox TT680 instead of Di700, to either group B or C
- Tried with enouph intervalls between shots, half press then fire. Also tried with burst shots.


I must have made over 600 test shots with all above combinations. Result: It doesn't make any difference at all. About 70% success in all cases, no matter. Even in burst shots (3fps), sometimes 1st shot is not ok and next is ok...

Must mention that in hss, success goes to about 50%. Also, less groups, more success. With only A and B, with or without on camera i40 unit, I get about 80-90%. But still unacceptable for serious work.

One small notice, with Godox TT680, if i fire during unit recycle, speedlite and receiver freeze and need restart either speedlite or receiver (then other wakes up also). I noticed I guy had exactly same problem with Metz flashes, in older big thread.

Also, in remote manual or mixed mode (off-camera in manual mode and on-camera in ettl), not any problems at all, almost 100% success.

One litllle trick i tried, I borrowed a radio transmitter with pass-through hot shoe, and put it on top of one 622C receiver (Ojecoco 430RX), without even turn it on, and then Nissin on top of that. I noticed great success on that particular receiver this way, however i was able to try it for 15-20 shots, so maybe a coincidence. Do you think that using 622C receivers with e-ttl cords to the flash, may eliminate possible bad contact between receiver and flash;

Please, I would like hear some ideas from you, before buy other triggers. Thank you.