YongNuo YN-622C/YN-622C-TX Controller Triggers 2

Thanks Clive. Great job on the user's guide. Very easy to understand.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #17324000
Yes, starting with Nikon flashes of course.

Up until this month, this was a "Canon" forum as you know, and info on Nikon compatibility is scarce.

If you mean "can the N versions be used on Canon cameras like the 3ti?", then no. The coding is proprietary to each brand; the cameras do not speak the same language, or use the same pin-outs in the foot.

No I didn't mean that. I was wondering what Nikon compatible speedlights would work with the 622N.

kv968 wrote in post #17324536
I just got my 622 and TX and I can't get the camera to trigger the flash (7D and 580EXii). (1) Does the firmware updates fix this? I have version xx.03 on the TX ( (2) why it didn't come with latest firmware who knows?). I'm going to update it as soon as I can get a mini USB cable (which didn't come with the units).

(3)I just don't know if I'm doing something wrong or it's the triggers. The flash will fire on the 622 from the TX when I hit "test" but it won't fire when I take a pic. I'm new to all of this so I'm sure it's something I'm doing, or not doing, right but just wanted to know if a firmware update will resolve this. I'll have to play around with some more when I get a chance.

Any help would be appreciated.

(1) Clive Bolton thoroughly tested the 622C and 622C-TX on a pre-production version (ie firmware 1.00) with his set-up and everything worked. He subsequently sent me the unit and I did the same with my 7D, 40D and 5DMkIII (no point duplicating his tests on my 50D). Everything worked for me too. MOST of the queries regarding the combination have been with regard to range and not compatibility.
(2) I'm not actually sure if v1.04 was ever officially included in production 622C-TX units. It certainly made no difference to the functionality as far as you're concerned. Yes, there have been changes with v1.04, v1.05 and now v1.06 but they didn't concern the basics of how the units worked with slightly older cameras such as the 7D. I'd suggest that you can rule that out as a cause for concern. By all means update to v1.06 but there's seriously no rush whatsoever - certainly not in terms of making things work properly with a 7D.
(3) It's certainly possible that there could be a problem with the triggers but I'd be inclined to look elsewhere before pointing the finger.
Things to look at:-

1. As GeeMack mentions, check the contacts are CLEAN. There are sometimes residual contaminants from manufacturing. It's not uncommon for the camera hotshoe to be less than pristine (don't forget that we wipe this area very throughly with sweaty eyebrows just about every time we use the camera). Areas of particular interest for cleaning are the UNDERside of the camera hotshoe rails and the part of the 622c-tx hotFOOT between the unit body and the surface with the pins poking through - yes, the hard-to-get-at areas (of course!). These form the GND part of the circuit. I clean mine with a cotton bud and iso-propyl alcohol but you can also use medical injection-site swabs equally effectively.
   
2. Make sure that the flash unit is FULLY pushed into the 622C-TX hotshoe. The ETTL pin is one of the two back ones nearest the open end of the shoe and it is surprisingly easy to just not quite have the flash pushed far enough in. The mere fact that the locking clamp is fully over and locked is NOT proof that the flash is fully seated. This shouldn't affect plain firing of course but it will affect ETTL and is a frequent cause of reverting from ETTL to TTL.
   
   
   Image hosted by forum (702460) © Whortleberry [SHARE LINK]
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   (The position of the microswitch can vary from model to model of camera)
   
   
3. Check that you are using 1.5v alkaline disposable batteries. There have been more problems caused by folks insisting on using rechargeables than everything else put together. Not the place to go into the reasons for this but do spend the odd £2 on a set of decent alkaline batteries. They last almost forever so it's hardly a big expense.
   
4. Make sure that the camera is set to Av / Tv / M or P - it won't work in the basic modes.
   
5. Go into the External Flash menu on the camera and set:-
   • Flash firing = ENABLED
     
   • Wireless = DISABLED (contrary to what you may thinking, the 'Wireless' in this instance refers to Canon's own infra-red flash control and NOT an external radio/wireless unit bolted on afterwards. Being awkward, self-centred beings, Canon don't seem keen on supporting other manufacturer's products which don't add to Canon's profits.
     Once you have done this, you will have control of Groups, etc from the 622C-TX unit and rarely need to burrow through in-camera menus.
     
   
   
6. Download & read Clive's TOYUG (Link in his signature a few posts above or in my own signature below).This is a carefully compiled collection of the whole 622C system from it's very earliest days. Much research and incorporation of findings / techniques / tips by a number of additional contributors. Currently 64 pages, it will greatly repay the few minutes spent studying it.
   

Thank you all for the suggestions. I just quickly tried it out last night so didn't really have time to mess with it but I'll give all your suggestions a shot. Again, I haven't used triggers before so I didn't know if I'm doing something wrong (i.e. settings) or if something is screwed up. I've watched enough Youtube videos on it and read a bunch of stuff but until you try it for yourself you just don't know. If I have any other problems you'll be hearing from me Thanks.

Thanks again to all, I got it working. First I don't think I was pushing the TX on all the way (now I just have to remember to not tighten it down so much so I don't need pliers to get it loose). And secondly I had to set my "Wireless" function on the camera to "Disabled" (thanks Whortleberry).

The question I now have is when I'm in TTL mode on the TX, I can change the EV value (+3 to -3) on the TX but nothing changes on the flash. Is this the way it's supposed to be since it's on ETTL or should I be able to dial it up and down?

I was in your shoes when I got my first two YN-622C units. I slid one on my camera (7D) and one on my flash (580EX II), pushed the shutter button and SHAZAM! I got a usable image. I'be been playing and expanding ever since. Oh what fun it is.

Here is my latest effort. YN622s controlling fill, rim and background. Main light is AB-400 in slave mode.

GeeMack wrote in post #17325153
I was in your shoes when I got my first two YN-622C units. I slid one on my camera (7D) and one on my flash (580EX II), pushed the shutter button and SHAZAM! I got a usable image. I'be been playing and expanding ever since. Oh what fun it is.

Here is my latest effort. YN622s controlling fill, rim and background. Main light is AB-400 in slave mode.

Nice shots! 622's work with Alien Bees too?

Changes you make in the menu or tx will not show in the menu of the speedlite.

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17325158
Nice shots! 622's work with Alien Bees too?

Yes, you just need the right cable.

gonzogolf wrote in post #17325162
Yes, you just need the right cable.

Right cable? I thought they were radio triggers.

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17325174
Right cable? I thought they were radio triggers.

There is no hot shoe on an Alien Bee. You must connect the 622 to it via a cable but I didn't do that. I activated the optical slave in the AB and let the speed lights trigger it.

They are but if you use them other than with a hotshoe flash you need to physically connect the reciever to the strobe. It only requires a short cable no more than 6 inches.

Nice shots Gee. Maybe I'll be there someday. For now it's the 580, an umbrella and a softbox. Possible second flash in the near future.

I was looking into the PocketWizard route but decided to try the Yongnues after some suggestions from members. And it might work out better going the "cheaper" route because as of now the only "model" I have is my gf and she's not too keen on getting her picture taken so who knows how this will last? But she's into photography as well so maybe we can do a "I practice on you/you practice on me" deal. And I'm talking about lighting so keep your heads out of the gutter

GeeMack wrote in post #17325184
There is no hot shoe on an Alien Bee. You must connect the 622 to it via a cable but I didn't do that. I activated the optical slave in the AB and let the speed lights trigger it.

gonzogolf wrote in post #17325203
They are but if you use them other than with a hotshoe flash you need to physically connect the reciever to the strobe. It only requires a short cable no more than 6 inches.

ahh...got it. I see now. Thanks fellas!

GeeMack wrote in post #17325153
I was in your shoes when I got my first two YN-622C units. I slid one on my camera (7D) and one on my flash (580EX II), pushed the shutter button and SHAZAM! I got a usable image. I'be been playing and expanding ever since. Oh what fun it is.

Here is my latest effort. YN622s controlling fill, rim and background. Main light is AB-400 in slave mode.

Hosted photo: posted by GeeMack in
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forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

Hosted photo: posted by GeeMack in
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forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

Stupid question, but isn't the B400 with a 622C a trigger-only receiver? You can't adjust the power remotely? In this case, why invest in the more expensive 622C system?