YongNuo YN-622C/YN-622C-TX Controller Triggers 2

Do you have a 560TX to test? have you test the 560 mode on yours? does it work?

I am unable to test the 560 mode.

However, for info on the Mark II version of the 622C, Canon and Nikon versions, see...

http://www.hkyongnuo.c​om …egory=2.Flash%2​0Equipment

Thanks, that would be great but there's no info still when the version II is coming out, right?

Will the 622s trigger that flash unit in hss? I read on another thread that a different controller is needed for hss but it was an older thread.

i love mine so much

NewCreation wrote in post #17579916
Will the 622s trigger that flash unit in hss? I read on another thread that a different controller is needed for hss but it was an older thread.

622's will enable HSS on flashes with that feature in them. But not on flashes that don't have the ability to HSS.

So my 622-s will HSS with my 430ex2, but I don't think they will with the YN 560, as that flash doesn't appear to have HSS

You do need a 622 on the camera hot shoe, and a 622 on the flash foot.

I currently have the YN-622C-TX and YN-622C triggers. I have two Canon 430exII's. I love the flashes in that they have ETTL and HSS, however they lack in power. So I'm looking at the YN-568EX and the YN-600EX-RT. I think I read that the YN-568-EX isn't that much more powerful than the 430ex, so I think I'm leaning towards the YN-600EX.

I'm pretty sure that the YN-568EX works well with the 622 system. I know that the YN-600EX works with the RT system, but is it still possible to use the 622c-tx and 622c triggers with it? I.e. if the YN-600EX foot in is the hot shoe of the 622c?


Sorry if this question has already been asked, I did a search in this thread and did not find anything.

kajo wrote in post #17584091
I currently have the YN-622C-TX and YN-622C triggers. I have two Canon 430exII's. I love the flashes in that they have ETTL and HSS, however they lack in power. So I'm looking at the YN-568EX and the YN-600EX-RT. I think I read that the YN-568-EX isn't that much more powerful than the 430ex, so I think I'm leaning towards the YN-600EX.

I'm pretty sure that the YN-568EX works well with the 622 system. I know that the YN-600EX works with the RT system, but is it still possible to use the 622c-tx and 622c triggers with it? I.e. if the YN-600EX foot in is the hot shoe of the 622c?


Sorry if this question has already been asked, I did a search in this thread and did not find anything.

Are you using HSS with your 430EX II's? That robs a lot of power. Don't expect huge gains from using a YN-568EX or YN-600EX-RT.

The YN-568EX has a Guide Nuber of 58 at 105mm and the YN-600EX-RT has a Guide Number of 60 at 200mm. You don't use them at those settings with a softbox or umbrella. If you use them at about 24mm and they both actually have exactly the same power.

The YN-600EX power will be nearly identical when zoomed to 24mm. The 430EX II's will also be very close.

You best bet for power is to double(or triple) them up or else use studio strobes.

The 430EX has a guide number of 43 so any of the choices will be more powerful. However Mike is correct in the above post to see any real impact you will need more than one flash or somethingthing like a Godox 360 or Adorama Rovelight.

Mike's

msowsun wrote in post #17584118

Hosted photo: posted by msowsun in
./showthread.php?p=175​84118&i=i41720879
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

Mike's triple mount is a commercial product. What I didn't like about it was the two side flash units are sideways, and when I need to use the 622C trigger, the sideways weight on the shoe mounts concerned me. So I built my own with some items purchased at my local hardware store. (see attached schematic).

Basically, I bought a brass bar about 1/8" thick, 2"x10", and bored a hole in the center the diameter of the top section of my light stand. I purchased a conduit clamp the same diameter (that would lock onto the plate) and put a strong set-screw into it so I could slide the bar/clamp combination up or down and lock it on the stand shaft. I then mounted a cold shoe at each end of the bar, which allows me to place a strobe and 622C trigger upright.

When I need one strobe, I use the standard holder on the top of the light stand. For two, I place one each on the bar ends (and leave the strobe off the top of the stand). For three, I place two on the bar, and one on the top.

Again, this is my DIY version, but I thought it was important to keep the flash unit and trigger in the upright configuration, so that over time the shoe connections would not wear out due to the side loading.

Thanks moswsun, jmaher, golfecho for the replies.

I do plan on ganging up all two or three together. I'm thinking I could sell one (or both) of the 430's and pick up multiple yongnuo's. Just need to know if the YN600 will play nicely on the hot shoe of the 622C trigger.

kajo wrote in post #17584292
Just need to know if the YN600 will play nicely on the hot shoe of the 622C trigger.

Yes, very nicely.

I am confused by one thing. Since the 7d2 has internal flash menu / control, What's the point of the TX? Basically, amazon has a kit with the 622c and TX, as well as a pair of the 622c's. Trying to decide which one to get since I am only working with a single flash now.

Some really like the convenience of not digging into the camera menu. For me personally, I stick with the yn-622c on camera because I want the option of the on-camera flash, as well. I set one of my custom menu options to get to the flash menu so it doesn't take too much to get to the flash menu. Plus, I use ttl a lot and just use the FEC to adjust.

Couple of questions.

While doing some testing today (got a new 5d3 and wanted to familiarize myself) and one of my 622c would not work on camera. The menu would pull up, etc. I put the same trigger on my 6d and it worked fine. Turns out the metal shoe is bent and it's just enough that the 5d3 doesn't like it. Not a biggie as I can use of of my others on camera. But my question is could I have done this damage? It seems like it'd be awful hard to bend the metal as opposed to breaking some of the plastic parts first. I am suspecting that it came that way but since it worked with my other camera before, I didn't notice.


Also, I was running bare 3 flashes off-camera in hss. At first I thought I was just getting full power and something was wonky but when I turned down the FEC it was closer to correct exposure. I was down to -3 FEC before it looked decent. Anyone else experience this? What should I be looking for if this is a problem. Is it somehow not working the ttl together for the flashes?

And mostly, thank you Clive for the manual. Sitting reading, changing settings, fiddling, finding answers so easily. What a great gift to all of us. THANK YOU!