Exposure for birds <moved>

I'm using a 1DMkII and tend to use shutter priority for Birds in flight using either 1/1600 or 1/2000. But I tend to shoot birds at rest as well, and sometime jump back and forth between the two.
I was shooting bluebirds yesterday, and the ones in flight I try and add 2/3 or even 1 stop using exposure compensation.
On the ones sitting on branches and such I could probably just use manual, and preset for the area they landed on branches.
Any thoughts on best methods ?

Bsmooth wrote in post #17031481
I'm using a 1DMkII and tend to use shutter priority for Birds in flight using either 1/1600 or 1/2000. But I tend to shoot birds at rest as well, and sometime jump back and forth between the two.
I was shooting bluebirds yesterday, and the ones in flight I try and add 2/3 or even 1 stop using exposure compensation.
On the ones sitting on branches and such I could probably just use manual, and preset for the area they landed on branches.
Any thoughts on best methods ?

This thread might get many replies if it were posted in talk about photograph section.

I still have my 1DMII. There are many parameters to getting it right great, good, fair and poor light all affect your SS. First off, shoot in manual.

Good luck.

Ted

See the Free Textbook for Beginners in the Bird Discussion Forum.
Al

Bruce ... like Ted said, manual is best. However, if you need to constantly switch scenarios quickly, e.g. BIF against bright sky one minute, then the next minute have to deal with bird perching on a branch in the shade against foliage, etc ... staying with shutter priority then apply the correct EC might be easier and quicker.

In my backyard, that is what I need to deal with. For BIF I would dial in +1 EC or more, depending on lighting condition and types of birds, etc ... When the bird lands on my (staged) branch, I need to do -EC due to the dark foliage background. How much -EC depends on the difference in light between the foreground and the background. In my case, it is typically -1/3 to -1 EC.

I agree with the others here manual is the best way. It gives you the most control.

I did post it in the talk about section and got 1 reply, thats why I posted it here.
As far as using manual, yes it does give you the most control, but even knowing the controls very well, I couldn't tell you how many times i'm dialing the aperture and shutter speed in when I find theres no longer a bird in the frame.
When using exposure compensation with my 100-400, many times I hit 5.6 because of lack of light, and wondered If the exposure compensation still takes effect. Does the camera since it can't go to say F4, now lower shutter speed instead to obtain the required exposure compensation ?

TedEllis wrote in post #17031552
This thread might get many replies if it were posted in talk about photograph section.

I still have my 1DMII. There are many parameters to getting it right great, good, fair and poor light all affect your SS. First off, shoot in manual.

Good luck.

Ted

Bsmooth wrote in post #17033072
I did post it in the talk about section and got 1 reply, thats why I posted it here.
As far as using manual, yes it does give you the most control, but even knowing the controls very well, I couldn't tell you how many times i'm dialing the aperture and shutter speed in when I find theres no longer a bird in the frame.
When using exposure compensation with my 100-400, many times I hit 5.6 because of lack of light, and wondered If the exposure compensation still takes effect. Does the camera since it can't go to say F4, now lower shutter speed instead to obtain the required exposure compensation ?

Sorry you didn't get more replies. Therefore I will elaborate as much as possible to help you with your questions.

The 1DM2 is/was notorious for noise with ISO 800 or greater.

I shoot everything (lacrosse, baseball, soccer, birds) in manual mode.

Shooting BIF (large birds) with great light with the 1DM2, ISO 200-800, f4- f7.1, ss 1/1000-2000.

I now shoot with a 1DM4. There are days with fluctuating light where I am spinning the dial to get the correct ss.

I always try to get the fastest ss possible.

On poor light days, it is common for me to shoot at 2000-3200 ISO to maintain the fastest possible ss.

In good to great Iight, ISO 400-1600. ss can range according.

Good luck.....the best advise is shoot....shoot... and shoot some more.

Ted

Thank you for your response, so Iso 400 is a good in between balance, thats good.
Yes many of my shots come out underexposed using shutter priority, but at least there usually in focus. I'll have to try more exposure compensation.

Moved you to talk about.

For birds I always (almost) use manual, because in-flight or at rest the background is changing so I like to keep the exposure constant. It is a pain if the sun is coming in and out.

Lester Wareham wrote in post #17035667
Moved you to talk about.

... It is a pain if the sun is coming in and out.

or if the bird moves from sun to shade. In my backyard setup I place a long branch horizontally for the birds to perch on. Unfortunately, at the prime times of the day, half of the branch is in the sun and the other half is in the shade. A bird quite frequently lands on one end, takes a quick look around, and hops to the other half. What a pain to chase exposure!

I do not have a better location in the yard for that setup so I just have to put up with that for now.

As mentioned, for birds in flight, where the background is often going to dominate the auto exposure, manual exposure is best. As you get used to it, you will get dialed into noticing when the sun drops behind a cloud etc.. and res set the exposure.

You've got to consider that the shot you really want is where the lighting is good. Your shade exposure is not likely to give you the best shot.