JoseCanseco wrote in post #17048038
KP, those are some great examples, very nice work! Some of those originals are beat up pretty badly. I didn't have to deal with any serious creases or rips in mine, are you using the clone stamp to fix those?
I'll have to look into high quality scanners in my area, thanks for the tips!
I use just about every tool Photoshop has, heal brush for spots and scratches, content aware fill for tears/missing space, patch tool if I'm not happy with content aware, copy+paste selection and then mask the layer if I want to use a specific part of the photo instead of clone, dodge+burn to fix tonal inconsistencies, and so on. Sometimes I'll even flat-out draw draw missing details like if someone's fingers got cut off the edge of a photo.
I also use a free program called Fiji to remove patterns from paper, as in the first example, using the FFT function. A lot of old photographs were printed on textured/patterned paper, so it's important to know how to do this. I also use Nik Silver Efex to "re-grain" images that I've removed the patterning from.
It also helps that I use a pen tablet, so I can do all selections and edits very accurately and quickly, if you happen to have any intent to do restorations on a professional level, I highly recommend getting a Wacom - pressure sensitivity is scientifically proven to reduce the chances of you tossing the PC out the window by 400%.
As for a scanner, I myself use an Epson V750 pro, which I believe is one of the best flatbed scanners out there, you can also scan film up to 8x10 with it, so you'll have all bases covered just in case someone comes in with a box of slides. You should never scan at less than 600PPI, I usually scan in at 800-1200PPI depending on the photo, and much more than that for film. A higher quality scan makes for cleaner edits.