Bad PC sync cord? How to test

Hi all,

I am looking to work around my 6d not have a pc sync port and struggling a bit.

I have a tf-321 and a male pc sync to male pc sync cord. However, I cannot get a fire signal. I am mounting the tf-321 in my hotshoe. What I want to do is put my 568ii on top of that and maintain ettl. Then I want to connect my yn603 to the tf-321 via the cord to fire my 560iii. Am I misunderstanding how this should work?

As a test, I connected the cord to my 560iii directly but there was still no fire signal sent. So I am thinking either the pc port on the tf-321 is bad or the cord is bad. Any idea how to test which it is? Or again, am I doing this wrong?

Thanks

Volt meter

The fire signal comes from your camera, not the flash. The PC port on the flash is an input.

To test the cable connect it to your flash. Bend a paper clip and touch the tip and the sleeve at the same time. The flash should fire.

NewCreation wrote in post #17053463
Hi all,

I am looking to work around my 6d not have a pc sync port and struggling a bit.

I have a tf-321 and a male pc sync to male pc sync cord. However, I cannot get a fire signal. I am mounting the tf-321 in my hotshoe. What I want to do is put my 568ii on top of that and maintain ettl. Then I want to connect my yn603 to the tf-321 via the cord to fire my 560iii. Am I misunderstanding how this should work?

As a test, I connected the cord to my 560iii directly but there was still no fire signal sent. So I am thinking either the pc port on the tf-321 is bad or the cord is bad. Any idea how to test which it is? Or again, am I doing this wrong?

Thanks

PC Sync cords are notoriously flaky. I would suspect the cord first. It should have triggered your 560 directly connected to the TF-321. Even if you have a known good TF-321 and a good cable I don't believe you can do a PC to PC cable connection to a 603. I could be wrong but I believe the PC port is "out only" on the 603 just like it is on the TF-321. I believe the PC port on the 603 is there to trigger a strobe that lacks a hot foot. You will possibly need a PC Sync to single pin hotshoe cable so that you can mount the 603 on the hotshoe at the end of the cable. I have one and it works great but I can't for the life of me remember where I purchased it. Contacting Lon at Flashzebra.com would be a good place to start. I didn't see anything exactly like I have in a quick look at his site but he can make pretty much anything flash cable related.

Just thought of something. Couldn't you put the 603 in the hotshoe and connect the sync cable directly between the 603 and the 560? That would allow you to test the cable separately from the TF-321. Or use Travis' paperclip method.

abbadon31 wrote in post #17053470
Volt meter

My son has one of those. I will check with him when he gets home.

JakAHearts wrote in post #17053482
The fire signal comes from your camera, not the flash. The PC port on the flash is an input.

So out from the tf-321 and in to the 560iii should work? Correct?

travisvwright wrote in post #17053495
To test the cable connect it to your flash. Bend a paper clip and touch the tip and the sleeve at the same time. The flash should fire.

OK. I have paperclips.

draderusa wrote in post #17053509
PC Sync cords are notoriously flaky. I would suspect the cord first. It should have triggered your 560 directly connected. Even if you have a known good TF-321 and a good cable I don't believe you can do a PC to PC cable connection to a 603. I could be wrong but I believe the PC port is "out only" on the 603 just like it is on the TF-321. I believe the PC port on the 603 is there to trigger a strobe that lacks a hot foot. You will possibly need a PC Sync to single pin hotshoe cable so that you can mount the 603 on the hotshoe at the end of the cable. I have one and it works great but I can't for the life of me remember where I purchased it. Contacting Lon at Flashzebra.com would be a good place to start. I didn't see anything exactly like I have but he can make pretty much anything flash cable related.

Just thought of something. Couldn't you put the 603 in the hotshoe and connect the sync cable directly between the 603 and the 560? That would allow you to test the cable separately from the TF-321. Or use Travis' paperclip method.

I should've just purchased the stinkin' 5d3

I will try what you suggest. I will just have to make sure the wireless function is off. Thanks.

OK. some quick testing and the cord is good. Still leaves me not getting the functionality that I want. Apparently the 603 is only out, so my idea of connecting the 603 to a pc sync cord is out the window. Poo! I don't think a cord will get me what I want if that's the case. Rats!

On the upside...I have a plethora of cords should I ever need them.

PC sync to PC Sync
2.5mm to PC Sync
3.5mm to PC Sync
Studio flash to PC Sync
Ettl cord

and a tf-321 to round off should I ever need a PC sync port...But I'd need longer cords to be of any use. LOL

Oh, and the younguo remote trigger cord for the 603s.

Thanks, Everyone for chiming in.

The 6D doesnt have a PC PORT?!?!?!!?

NewCreation wrote in post #17053551
OK. some quick testing and the cord is good. Still leaves me not getting the functionality that I want. Apparently the 603 is only out, so my idea of connecting the 603 to a pc sync cord is out the window. Poo! I don't think a cord will get me what I want if that's the case. Rats!

I just got home and mounted a 600EX-RT in ETTL mode on top of a Pixel TF-321 just like you have. I took my single pin hotshoe with a permanently attached screw type PC plug at the end of a roughly eight inch cable and attached the plug end of the cable to the pc port on the TF-321. I then mounted an RF603ii in the hotshoe at the other end of the cable. I took a second 603 and stuck it under a second 600EX in manual mode. Took several shots and both flash units fired properly each time. If I understand what you are trying to achieve this would solve your problem.

JakAHearts wrote in post #17053840
The 6D doesnt have a PC PORT?!?!?!!?

Nope. Nor does it have the af system of the 5d3. Give & take, I guess.

draderusa wrote in post #17053860
I just got home and mounted a 600EX-RT in ETTL mode on top of a Pixel TF-321 just like you have. I took my single pin hotshoe with a permanently attached screw type PC plug at the end of a roughly eight inch cable and attached the plug end of the cable end to the pc port on the TF-321. I then mounted an RF603ii in the hotshoe at the other end of the cable. I took a second 603 and stuck it under a second 600EX in manual mode. Took several shots and both flash units fired properly each time. If I understand what you are trying to achieve this would solve your problem.

It sounds like it would but I am not sure I understand what kind of connector you are using. Can you show me a picture or a link? It would be wonderful to work this out. As of now, I can do it by using a flash bracket but I would rather not.

I recommended the TF-321 - and - would have expected draderusa's setup to work as he explained it.

If the 560 III's pc port is not working, that would explain NewCreation's problem.

So you would be tempted to put a pc to hot-shoe adaptor underneath the Speedlite. Fine, except it must not be a TF-321! Not all pc to hotshoe adaptors are created equal. The Flashzebra site run by Lon keeps the distinctions clear. He has sections for Speedlite hot-shoe adaptors and for camera hot-shoe adaptors. Cheers

NewCreation wrote in post #17053946
Nope. Nor does it have the af system of the 5d3. Give & take, I guess.

It sounds like it would but I am not sure I understand what kind of connector you are using. Can you show me a picture or a link? It would be wonderful to work this out. As of now, I can do it by using a flash bracket but I would rather not.

Found it! http://www.flashzebra.​com/products/0273/inde​x.shtml

draderusa wrote in post #17053984
Found it! http://www.flashzebra.​com/products/0273/inde​x.shtml

Totally awesome! Thank you!

travisvwright wrote in post #17053495
To test the cable connect it to your flash. Bend a paper clip and touch the tip and the sleeve at the same time. The flash should fire.

No need to waste a valuable resource like a paperclip , simply stick the tip of a ballpoint into the end of the plug when the cable is connected to the flash PC port. If it fires, it's good. If not, trash immediately (....the cable. Trashing the pen is optional)

If you want to start getting all techie, a multi-meter set to resistance (Ω symbol) will check it. Set to the lowest range, connect one probe to the outer sleeve of a plug at one end and the other to the plug outer sleeve at the other end. Theory has it that the resistance should be Zero but it never quite is. As long as it's really low, that's OK (figures are pretty much irrelevant but I'd be happy with 2 to 3 Ω). Now do the same but connecting ONLY to the centre pin in each plug - careful you don't touch the outer sleeve as well. Again, you're looking for a low, low reading. You do need BOTH these readings to be as near zero as possible. Then you know you have a good lead. For the time being

Ideally you should regard sync leads as a consumable just like an ordinary AA battery. Most commercial leads use wire about the thickness of baby hair and this breaks astoundingly easily. I used to make my own with microphone cable (much tougher) but can't get the solder-on plugs any more.