Any tips for comp swimming pics?

On August 14 I'm attending the Panpacs swimming competition on the Gold Coast, Australia. Getting shots of this is probably well beyond my skill level so I'm after any hints or tips members want to share. My equipment is quite modest, 450D, Tamron 28-75 and Sigma 70-300 Macro plus a couple of vintage primes, but these are only 50mm or so.
I'm sitting about 30metres from the start/finish blocks but only a few rows back from the pool sides. Other than running out and buying a stack of pro gear, any hints? Is there a vintage Canon prime I could pick up cheaply as an Ebay item at low cost that would be good for this?

Hal55

Assuming that your 70-300 Macro also functions at normal distances (such as 30 meters from the subject), you shouldn't need to purchase anything to be equipped to handle the project.

You may need to learn a bit about exposure control (such as how to use Exposure Compensation if you're using automated exposure control or how to use manual exposure control) to optimize your results. You definitely want to know why you'd choose various shutter speeds and aperture (f-stop) settings to affect your images the way you'd want.

You may need to learn how to hold a camera with a long focal length lens steadily enough to get sharp images (assuming that you may not be allowed to use a tripod).

In or outdoors?

kf095 wrote in post #17058972
In or outdoors?

And, if indoors, what type of lighting is used? That could be a BIG issue.

The only description for the lighting system used was "television standard" which may or may not mean something. I imagine another problem will be that autofocus won't work. With the swimmers moving quickly, arms and legs going and water splashing everywhere I imagine it will be a tough ask for autofocus to work OK. Should be an interesting night and if I only get a couple of good shots that will be ok.

Hal55

hal55 wrote in post #17060999
The only description for the lighting system used was "television standard" which may or may not mean something. I imagine another problem will be that autofocus won't work. With the swimmers moving quickly, arms and legs going and water splashing everywhere I imagine it will be a tough ask for autofocus to work OK. Should be an interesting night and if I only get a couple of good shots that will be ok.

Hal55

If the lighting is a gas-discharge type which is operating at power-line frequency (such as most fluorescent "shop lights", for example), you will not be able to use shutter speeds faster than one half the power line cycle (1/120 second in the US and other places that use 60Hz power). Using faster shutter speeds with this sort of lighting causes all sorts of color and intensity problems in images.

hal55 wrote in post #17060999
...."television standard" which may or may not mean something. ....

It means nothing for me and I'm "in television" since 1991.

Is it indoors or outdoors?

If outdoors, during light hours, shouldn't be a problem at all.
Including focusing. Use Servo mode and back button for it. With big distance like you are going to be at, it is going to be in focus anyway.

Try to get at the pool level and as upfront as possible.

For indoors, most likely, you would have to deal with not so high ISO capability and slower shutter speeds to have enough exposure.

I always find competitive swimming shots the most interesting and aggresive when shot laying down at the end the swimming is coming towards.

Most of the swimming positions have a lot of head high out of the water and arms wide open in different "angelic" like positions.

and that's the best time to get them clear of the splashes.

I would recommend that you also check with the venue/promoter of the event to see if there are any restrictions on the type of camera or lenses allowed. Your 70-300 lens should be fine at this outdoor event if it is allowed.

hal55 wrote in post #17060999
The only description for the lighting system used was "television standard" which may or may not mean something. I imagine another problem will be that autofocus won't work. With the swimmers moving quickly, arms and legs going and water splashing everywhere I imagine it will be a tough ask for autofocus to work OK. Should be an interesting night and if I only get a couple of good shots that will be ok.

Hal55

if it's outdoors you might not have any problems but if it's indoors then a large aperture lens would help

If you can get on the deck, that's the best for action shots. From 30m away, you've used up a good chunk of the range of your lens and will not be able to frame swimmers well in the further lanes, or at the other end of the pool. I'm afraid that action shots are going to be pretty challenged, but you'll get some keepers.

From about that same distance, this is what I got at 200mm f/2.8 (my daughter):

Thanks for the input. I'm not expecting great results, but if I can get a few decent keepers that will be good enough. If I get anything really worthwhile I'll post it here.

Hal55

If there are any swimmers that you definitely want to get shots of, watch them in warmups. If you notice that they only breathe to one side when they swim freestyle, etc you'll know which side of the pool you'll need to be on.

Thanks for the hint, I'm hoping the event will be telecast live, and will be watching the heats on TV that day before going out to the finals that night. Will keep an eye on which side Phelps, Magnussen etc breath on and hope I can get myself into position.

Hal55

patrick023 wrote in post #17081155
If there are any swimmers that you definitely want to get shots of, watch them in warmups. If you notice that they only breathe to one side when they swim freestyle, etc you'll know which side of the pool you'll need to be on.

Lots of swimmers breath on both sides too, which is also good to know. My oldest will breathe either side depending on stroke timing and pace, or if he wants to get a look at his neighbors' positions.

Triathletes are often alternating sides because it helps stay in a line for open water.