MPE65 or 100 Marco?

I'm looking to take the plunge but do not which way to go. Pros and cons of each would be appreciated.

They are quite different animals. The 100 macro is a great general purpose macro that goes to 1:1 and can also be used for general photography. Working distance is short (around 150mm or 6" at 1:1) but OK for many subjects.

The 65mm STARTS at 1:1 and then goes to ever higher magnification. Working distance is 100mm (~4") at 1:1 and shrinks fast at the higher magnifications. You can still do live bugs with this lens at 1:1 and a bit higher, but it is hard. Once you get past around 2X, it is difficult to light your subject and focus on it, if you can even find your subject. DOF is very thin.

To get the most out of the 65mm, you should work indoors with a motionless subject using a focusing rail and bright lights. Do focus stacking to get better DOF.

You can still get interesting results hand-held outdoors but you will probably need the twin or ring flash. Most of us working this way use the twin flash and make diffusers to get a better quality of light.

So I suggest you get the 100mm initially, and consider the 65mm later if you want to go beyond 1:1. The 65mm is much harder to use and may require additional gear ($$), but with persistence can give really neat results.

TBH, the fact that you ask this question implies that you're totally not ready for the MPE65 yet. Stick with the 100.

IMHO if you are thinking about shooting above 1x the best starter lens is the EF-S 60mm. It loses focal length at 1x and is about a 37mm lens (only takes 37mm of extension to get to 2x) and as long as you have at least 12mm of extension on it you can use it on any Canon camera. I do not recommend the MP-E 65mm as a first macro lens -the learning curve is very steep...

If you do decide to take the plunge with the MP-E lens, I recommend using a small high-intensity LED flashlight in your left hand to provide enough light to focus at mags above about 2-3x.

I hold it next to my lens with my left hand, and with just a little practice it becomes second nature to aim the light at the subject while looking through the optical viewfinder of a DSLR. Some people prefer the focus-assist lights of the MT-24 flash.

I don't personally like a ring flash for bugs since they create (IMO) weird-looking ring-shaped reflections in spider eyes (esp jumping spiders). Also, some people find ring flash light to be too flat for anything except subjects like postage stamps.

Good luck with your quest. I enjoy both my 100mm Canon macro lens and my MP-E! They mostly solve mostly different problems in macro photography.

Like the others I'll advice you to go for the 100mm first.
The MP-E 65 is not an easy lens to start with.

Good luck.

Regards,
Laurent.

i would have loved a mpe65, but went with the 100mm canon macro due to advice (and funds!). it really does help having the extra distance to not scare the bugs away!

im upgrading the flash and some getting some tubes. really really happy with this advice given to me here :] (yes im newb)

Start with the 100, and get a set of extension tubes. You can use various combinations for added magnification, up to 2:1. A flash is very useful for macro, especially if you do end up getting tubes.

rasseru wrote in post #17105260
i would have loved a mpe65, but went with the 100mm canon macro due to advice (and funds!). it really does help having the extra distance to not scare the bugs away!

im upgrading the flash and some getting some tubes. really really happy with this advice given to me here :] (yes im newb)

...I do all of my insect macro with the EF-S 60mm + tubes and the MPE-65mm...

IMHO working distance works against you since you really need to get your flash as close to the subject as possible (to freeze motion and to get good diffusion). Do you really think that the working distance of a 100mm lens (~6") compared to the working distance of a 60mm lens (~4") really means anything to an insect? You're still going to be large in its field of view. So it's really the insect, and your knowledge of its habits and quirks, that are going to determine if you get the shot...

Taken with the MP-E 65mm a t a working distance of about 3.5"