Shutter lag when using a grip?

I have a 6d and meike grip. I notice that the shutter lag is significantly higher in when I am using the grip over the body. For instance, I was shooting multiple cyclists coming towards me. I shot the ones on the right and switch to the ones on the left. The focus is locked in but the shutter just fails to release. I have a better chance of success when using the shutter button on the body. I have some older nikon bodies here (d2h, d3) with integrated grip and I never experience the level of shutter lag I am getting with the 6d+grip. Does anyone have similar experience with either a canon or third party 6d grip?

I have DTSE grip. No issues. The shutter (front) button actually feels better than the one on the camera. I mean better damped and more noticeable half-press. And the battery door latch stays closed until I want it to open.

Is there a chance it was just a coincidence? Can you reproduce the shutter lag in normal settings?

I have an OEM grip for my 5DMKIII and there is no discernible difference in lag.

Which lens?

Autofocus and drive modes?

Sounds like something is wrong with the particular shutter button on the grip.

My 6D and Meike grip don't do that.

I've been using Canon grips, but they don't make any difference regarding which trigger button you press.

kenwood33 wrote in post #17088900
... I was shooting multiple cyclists coming towards me. I shot the ones on the right and switch to the ones on the left. The focus is locked in but the shutter just fails to release...

This suggests that you focused on the right, shot a few pictures, moved a few degrees to the left. Then all of a sudden the shutter release doesn't release -that isn't lag, that's not releasing or not working.

So either the button is not working, which you can test any time, or it is.
If the button is working, the question becomes why no shot? Are you in one shot AF or a servo mode? Are you in single or continuous drive mode? Are you very sure you got focus lock?

A little more info might help.

You can eliminate a lot of variables by putting the camera in ai-servo and using bbaf. Then the camera won't care if it has focus or not. The shutter will fire immediately. If it doesn't, the problem is not with the camera. Accomplish the same thing by switching the lens to MF.

Gregg.Siam wrote in post #17089159
I have an OEM grip for my 5DMKIII and there is no discernible difference in lag.

Same here with a Canon grip on a 5DII.

But the suggestion to use AI Servo is a good one. Its what you should be using for cyclists anyway.

GeoKras1989 wrote in post #17090779
You can eliminate a lot of variables by putting the camera in ai-servo and using bbaf. Then the camera won't care if it has focus or not. The shutter will fire immediately. If it doesn't, the problem is not with the camera. Accomplish the same thing by switching the lens to MF.

Yup.

The first thing I'd suspect is the Meike grip...

I've heard and read about enough issues with inexpensive third party grips that I only use Canon OEM and have had very few issues with those (okay, the old 30D and BG-E2 used to loosen up over time, to the point the camera would stop dead in it's tracks.... but all that was needed was tightening the grip).

I've occasionally had the grip's off/on switch get bumped and turned enough that the vertical controls wouldn't work. But that probably can happen with any of the grips.

Even with OEM grip, there may be some minor differences between the shutter release buttons... For example the 7D uses the same shutter button as 1D series on the camera body, with a very short shutter lag. I don't think the shutter button on the BG-E7 grip is the same, but it's an almost imperceptible difference.

I agree with other responses, too... that the Focus Mode must be AI Servo. If trying to use One Shot with moving subjects, you'll miss more than you get in focus. AI Focus isn't really a mode at all... it's just supposed to decide for you whether or not the subject is moving, then use either AI Servo or One Shot, as appropriate. I don't have 6D, but in the past with other Canon cameras have found AI Focus sometimes chooses wrong and tends to add a slight delay that can cause missed shots.

And, yes, Back Button Focusing can be a big help with AI Servo. If not using it, give it a try.

Also, I usually use a single AF point with moving subjects and AI Servo. In particular, with 6D I'd restrict it to the center point only. In 6D all the other points are single axis, only the center one is more sensitive dual axis/cross type point that will be faster and more responsive tracking movement.

OMG, I just noticed B&H is selling brand new BG-E7 for $109... ISTR those originally sold for close to $250, when the 7D was intro'd nearly five years ago. To me that... along with the current prices for 7D themselves... pretty much confirms that we'll be seeing Mark II's of both the 7D and it's grip very soon!

amfoto1 wrote in post #17091346
OMG, I just noticed B&H is selling brand new BG-E7 for $109... ISTR those originally sold for close to $250, when the 7D was intro'd nearly five years ago. To me that... along with the current prices for 7D themselves... pretty much confirms that we'll be seeing Mark II's of both the 7D and it's grip very soon!

No at least give a thanks to competitor you totally trash here. I have had absolutely no problems with third party grips, batteries compare with very inflated OEM.

samsen wrote in post #17091416
No at least give a thanks to competitor you totally trash here. I have had absolutely no problems with third party grips, batteries compare with very inflated OEM.

I've had really good luck with aftermarket grips, Maxtech, and Wasabi batteries. My 450D, 500D, 60D, 5Dc, 6D and Elan 7NE have all sported grips. None of them the brand mentioned above. All worked just fine. Well, after I sent back at least 3 of them for a different brand.