Smooth video when camera mounted to windshield of car

Hi everyone,

Question for anyone who shoots video w/ the camera mounted to the windshield interior.

How do you keep it steady?

Right now I'm using a vacuum cup with a threaded stud, mounting a Manfrotto magic arm to it and adjusting to desired angle.

Is there some kind of isolation pad or a different articulating arm that supports better?

Though it bounces over even some smooth pavement at times.

Is using Image Stabilization while mounted like this ok or does it fool the IS into thinking it's on a steady tripod?

The magic arm is the problem. The extension allows motion/shake into the setup. It is like the difference between walking with a camera with your arm next to your body vs holding your arm reaching out.

Ok, so what can I use when the camera is mounted on the inside of the windshield to prevent that vibration from acting on the camera?

That rig on the hood looks like all hard mounts as well.

This double cup mount with a short arm works well at a budget level:

http://www.filmtools.c​om …ion-cup-camera-mount.html

There are many other car mount options with more stability at a higher budget:
http://www.filmtools.c​om …?dir=desc&order​=price&p=2

-Scott

DisrupTer911 wrote in post #17091180
Ok, so what can I use when the camera is mounted on the inside of the windshield to prevent that vibration from acting on the camera?

Depends on the camera you're using. If you're using a Go Pro or smaller camera, use a suction mount like you would use for the Go Pro, a phone, or a GPS. I've used hair bands to mount a P&S to a Garmin GPS holder and didn't have vibration issues. I just banded it in tightly.
If you're using a bigger/heavier camera or DSLR, look at dash mounting it. The weight is your enemy if you're on the windshield, the weight is your friend on the dashboard. In a dashboard case, I would use a dashboard kit (comes with a disc that adheres to the dashboard and a mount on top.

I would use the P&S/Go Pro option if I had the choice. Less issues with weight and focusing, as well as the lens is usually wide enough.

Thanks BrickR and Sspellman!

Gonna try the direct suction system next.

One more question, leave IS on or off when mounted to one of these systems?

IS off of course It's set on a fixed location.

I have had the best results when mounting a camera to a car with a MINIMUM of 3 contact points to reduce vibration. Using this with a combination of IS is a good formula.

You can also shoot 1080 then scale it down to 720 and using a stabalize motion in after effects.

I'm using Serif's Movie Plus x6 and the stabilize option is per frame, and it only does up to 30 frames.
Maybe I'm using it wrong, I probably am HAHA I'm totally **** at editing videos they're so geocities quality.

Gonna try some video work this weekend to see how things go with the delkin mount.

I've had a lot of success on the car with a vbag - http://vbag.dk/.

Image Stabilization can help you or hurt you, it depends on the type of vibration you're getting.
It tends to cut out "larger" swings like potholes, but will accidentally over-correct or reverse-correct for high-speed vibrations like engine vibrations, etc.
I would do some playback tests before I committed to one way or the other.

Also, the FatGecko does a nice job on a budget, but it's way cheaper from Amazon than FilmTools.