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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 15 Aug 2014 (Friday) 15:40
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Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

 
agv8or
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Mar 20, 2016 22:35 |  #1531

owenegan wrote in post #17942150 (external link)
Hi Rand.

Do you know whether setting an X1T's CFn 00 affects only the timing of the firing signal sent through its hotshoe? Or does it also affect timing of the firing signals it sends via radio to wirelessly-linked flashes?

Thanks,

Owen.

Take note: Since X1 firmware update V09, which provides for wireless "rear curtain" sync capability, flash sync timing (CFn 00) is not useable unless wireless rear curtain sync (CFn 04) is turned "OFF" (set to 00).

The X1 only sends one trigger signal and the flash sync timing will affect that signal no matter the shutter speed used and which trigger signal is being sent. That signal is sent to the wireless flashes as well as to the center pin of both the X1 transmitter and receiver hot shoes. Since all the Godox 2.4G HSS flashes pulse their flash when using HSS, this will not be an issue to incorporate a long duration flash, such as the RL600B, into the mix as most only require a setting of around 20 to optimize the flash exposure. You will not see the Godox flashes affected until about 60 or so when in HSS. Of course you will want to set your flash sync timing back to 00 when not using HSS, as I stated the X1 only sends 1 trigger signal so you could see the shutter curtain at or just below Max sync speed, depending on how much delay you have set.


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owenegan
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Mar 21, 2016 00:35 as a reply to  @ agv8or's post |  #1532

Thanks. That helps my understanding of things.

More things to test while we wait for Godox to write firmware!

Owen




  
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Hijazi
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Post edited over 7 years ago by Hijazi.
     
Mar 26, 2016 12:37 |  #1533

Hello everyone. I am new to this forum and also to the RL600, coming from a Profoto B1 system. There's nothing much that I miss except maybe TTL in some on-the-run situations. The RL has been functioning flawlessly so far :) I adapted my modifiers with the Bowens mount but I am still not sure if my Mola adaptation is ideal (the Flashtube is still sitting a tad deeper). Thoughts? I was cheap and I didn't want to spend $70 for the Mola/Bowens ring, so I used my own Bowens cheapo ring :D

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Mar 26, 2016 21:29 |  #1534

Hijazi wrote in post #17949523 (external link)
Hello everyone. I am new to this forum and also to the RL600, coming from a Profoto B1 system. There's nothing much that I miss except maybe TTL in some on-the-run situations. The RL has been functioning flawlessly so far :) I adapted my modifiers with the Bowens mount but I am still not sure if my Mola adaptation is ideal (the Flashtube is still sitting a tad deeper). Thoughts? I was cheap and I didn't want to spend $70 for the Mola/Bowens ring, so I used my own Bowens cheapo ring :D
Hosted photo: posted by Hijazi in
./showthread.php?p=179​49523&i=i125540235
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

If you bought a b1 that fact alone precludes you from being cheap :)


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Mar 27, 2016 16:48 |  #1535

Hijazi wrote in post #17949523 (external link)
Hello everyone. I am new to this forum and also to the RL600, coming from a Profoto B1 system. There's nothing much that I miss except maybe TTL in some on-the-run situations. The RL has been functioning flawlessly so far :) I adapted my modifiers with the Bowens mount but I am still not sure if my Mola adaptation is ideal (the Flashtube is still sitting a tad deeper). Thoughts? I was cheap and I didn't want to spend $70 for the Mola/Bowens ring, so I used my own Bowens cheapo ring :D
Hosted photo: posted by Hijazi in
./showthread.php?p=179​49523&i=i125540235
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

Flashtube sitting deep should not be a problem. I have the rovelight attached to my Demi with the supplied Bowens speedring and it is also pretty far back. But the light pattern on the dish looks correct. The only thing I don't understand about your setup is why you have the black speedring clamp ring on the inside of the dish. That part is supposed to be on the back. Is this a consequence of the DIY?

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Mar 27, 2016 16:55 as a reply to  @ Hijazi's post |  #1536

Why go from B1's to RL 600 ?


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Mar 27, 2016 16:56 |  #1537

fotopaul wrote in post #17951004 (external link)
Why go from B1's to RL 600 ?

I would guess to have $1500 to spend on something of more obvious benefit?


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Mar 27, 2016 17:00 |  #1538

absplastic wrote in post #17951008 (external link)
I would guess to have $1500 to spend on something of more obvious benefit?

Ah you deem them equal then, gotcha!


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Mar 27, 2016 17:22 |  #1539

fotopaul wrote in post #17951013 (external link)
Ah you deem them equal then, gotcha!

Equal, no, I certainly didn't say or mean to imply that. Like with most high-end stuff, you get better build and customer support, which can matter to professionals, but there are diminishing returns on the improvement of the end results for each dollar spent. For anyone who is an amateur or professional starting out with a budget and trying to maximize their dollar, you can get more bang for your buck putting the $1500 into something else, like modifiers, or a nicer lens. Then when you have clients booked for the foreseeable future, by all means go for that B1.


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Mar 27, 2016 17:31 |  #1540

Yes i understand that non professional easily find the RL 600 a good investment, however if you gone ahead and purchased B1 you already made a investment.. so either you didn't really know what you needed/wanted or there where other reasons for the switch. Hence my curiosity.. ;-)a


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Mar 27, 2016 19:47 |  #1541

Anyone here try keeping the RL-600 charging while being used? I'm wondering if there is any downside to this. The connectors allow for the charger to be plugged in to the battery while the battery is installed in the unit, which seems deliberate (why else would the battery have connectors at both ends). It appears to work just fine on mine, but I haven't tried keeping it plugged in for an intense photo session. I am concerned it might overburden the charger (drawing too much current from it directly) if the unit is fired at full power to the point where the battery voltage is significantly below the charger voltage.


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Hijazi
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Mar 28, 2016 01:59 |  #1542

absplastic wrote in post #17950997 (external link)
Flashtube sitting deep should not be a problem. I have the rovelight attached to my Demi with the supplied Bowens speedring and it is also pretty far back. But the light pattern on the dish looks correct. The only thing I don't understand about your setup is why you have the black speedring clamp ring on the inside of the dish. That part is supposed to be on the back. Is this a consequence of the DIY?

Hosted photo: posted by absplastic in
./showthread.php?p=179​50997&i=i63950197
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting


Hosted photo: posted by absplastic in
./showthread.php?p=179​50997&i=i222115281
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

Thanks for the help and the pictures :) As I mentioned earlier, I had the ring attached from the inside so the flashtube would sit closer inside the dish. In other words, I inserted the ring through the dish's hole and then installed the Mola speedring clamp onto the ring to stabilize it. This brought the flashtube about .5" closer.




  
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Hijazi
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Mar 28, 2016 02:13 |  #1543

fotopaul wrote in post #17951038 (external link)
Yes i understand that non professional easily find the RL 600 a good investment, however if you gone ahead and purchased B1 you already made a investment.. so either you didn't really know what you needed/wanted or there where other reasons for the switch. Hence my curiosity.. ;-)a

I switched because I needed more than one light for my projects, and I couldn't invest in more B1's. Now I have 3 RL600's for less than half the price of one B1. To put it in perspective, one RL600 with a remote and a reflector costs as much as a TTL-N remote. There are other advantages to the RL600 such as battery life, compatibility with other flash systems, more power and more affordable modifiers. Btw, I didn't immediately jump to the RL600. I've been using a Yongnuo system for a while before I decided to get the RL600's.

I really enjoyed the B1, however, I am not missing much since I switched. TTL came in handy in certain on-the-run situations.

People get into financial situations sometimes that forces them into more economical decision. It's not always that you didn't know what you wanted/needed :)




  
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Hijazi
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Mar 28, 2016 02:18 |  #1544

absplastic wrote in post #17951171 (external link)
Anyone here try keeping the RL-600 charging while being used? I'm wondering if there is any downside to this. The connectors allow for the charger to be plugged in to the battery while the battery is installed in the unit, which seems deliberate (why else would the battery have connectors at both ends). It appears to work just fine on mine, but I haven't tried keeping it plugged in for an intense photo session. I am concerned it might overburden the charger (drawing too much current from it directly) if the unit is fired at full power to the point where the battery voltage is significantly below the charger voltage.

I read in Flashhavoc's review that it cannot be used while on the charger, however, he didn't elaborate on that. I'd be interested to hear more about this.




  
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Mar 28, 2016 02:33 |  #1545

Hijazi wrote in post #17951469 (external link)
I switched because I needed more than one light for my projects, and I couldn't invest in more B1's. Now I have 3 RL600's for less than half the price of one B1.

People get into financial situations sometimes that forces them into more economical decision. It's not always that you didn't know what you wanted/needed :)

If you don't need TTL the B1/B2 system is less attractive i give you that. Sure i understand, no intention to offend. Thank you for answering.

Regards
Paul


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Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?
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