Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

So since it's best to use the Yn622 triggers on both the camera and light for reliability, can you also use a Yongnuo flash with this setup and control it's power from the camera?

Would it work in high speed sync along with the Rovelight?

Can you use the YN-622n TX with the rovelight?

I'm about to purchase some TTL triggers for HSS with the Rovelight.

Will there be any functional difference between the cells II triggers and the YN 622 for Nikon? Ie, are there any functions of the YN 622n that I may be missing with the cells in the future?

If not I think I will just take the cells because of the price.

digitalduck wrote in post #17672742
And just like that "Rovelight 600 One sale $479.95" at Adorama.... Pulled the trigger!! It was $599 this morning still

Yeah it just randomly does that. Have to keep an eye on it and snatch one up when they drop.

I've searched but not found: the proper sync cord for connecting a Yongnuo YN622C to a Rovelight: can someone please provide a link?

Thx

I believe this is the one I use.
http://www.amazon.com …dio-Strobes/dp/B007KA3LQS

Rovelight RL600 owners... how is color consistency on this strobe?

PhilF wrote in post #17674544
Rovelight RL600 owners... how is color consistency on this strobe?

Hey Phil,
I think you were asking about HSS consistency? I pretty much shoot most all of my dance stuff at full power and HSS and if I'm properly exposed then the colour is nearly spot on but if I underexpose at all then I get a magenta shift. All my lights are Flashpoint and they behave the same way so I don't really worry about it as a global correction fixes it easily. This is for studio stuff only though. I haven't shot much with it outdoors yet.

Anyone here use their PCB VML charger to charge the Rovelight? Same connectors and same output ~ 16.8V and 3A.
Nice to have a spare charger for the spare battery.

Just ordered mine last night.

I'm really excited about not having to carry a power cord and a battery pack with me.

I already have an arsenal of YN622-C's with a few sync port cables. Is that all I need to trigger the flash in HSS mode? I was reading through the entire thread and was confused why people needed to put the rovelight trigger on a cold shoe onto a YN622. Is that so you can control the power remotely or MUST you do that to trigger above 1/500 HSS?

I can't wait to not have to balance the SS to 1/160 or under with my 6D. I absolutely love the results you guys have been posting shooting >1/2000th @ 2.8.

Heya,

I too was tired of dealing with ND filters at the strength I was needing for Florida sun (to be able to use F1.4, F2, F2.8), it was getting to be too much, and the speedlites just couldn't begin to touch that sun. So it was time for something with serious output that was still very portable.

Yeap, one sync port cable to the YN622 and into the back of the Rovelight and you're set. You don't even have to use the stock transmitter. It's only good really for remote changing of power levels anyways. Just read the manual on how to put the unit (the Rovelight) into HSS and you're good to go. You do not need a cold shoe or any of that. I still remotely control the power from the transmitter (the stock one). I just put it in my pocket and use it when I need to. Otherwise, all I use is the YN622 on my camera and the YN622 + sync cable to the Rovelight. Nothing else. Does HSS like a dream, and mine does 1/8000s HSS no problem.

Maybe in the future, Adorama will do what Jenbei is doing and put out a second version of the transmitter. Or in the future, something straight up better in general that can trigger, control power, etc, and not be a cheap little generic transmitter, but something of quality & substance. I'd buy one then and be good to go. Until then, YN622's do everything beautifully.

While the concept of needing no wires, no external packs, etc, was true, I ultimately added a little "wire & pack" to my Rovelight via the YN622 + cable. But, it still doesn't have stuff flying around or hanging. I attached it with a velcro pad so I can take it on and off and it's secure while shooting. I'm still happy not having all the external stuff.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/wBrZ​Ct

Placing the Rovelight transmitter on a cold shoe, then connected to the YN-622X transmitter, only removes the need for an external YN-622C receiver to be attached to the Rovelight.

Unfortunately the current Rovelight / Jinbei transmitter has often prooved to be unreliable in firing the flash consistently anyway. So as others have mentioned its often better to use YN-622C transmitter and receivers to fire the flash.

Remote power control with the Rovelight / Jinbe transmitter is less critical to responding instantly every time when needed (like a transmitter used to fire the flash in sync with the camera).

MalVeauX wrote in post #17675253
Heya,

I too was tired of dealing with ND filters at the strength I was needing for Florida sun (to be able to use F1.4, F2, F2.8), it was getting to be too much, and the speedlites just couldn't begin to touch that sun. So it was time for something with serious output that was still very portable.

Yeap, one sync port cable to the YN622 and into the back of the Rovelight and you're set. You don't even have to use the stock transmitter. It's only good really for remote changing of power levels anyways. Just read the manual on how to put the unit (the Rovelight) into HSS and you're good to go. You do not need a cold shoe or any of that. I still remotely control the power from the transmitter (the stock one). I just put it in my pocket and use it when I need to. Otherwise, all I use is the YN622 on my camera and the YN622 + sync cable to the Rovelight. Nothing else. Does HSS like a dream, and mine does 1/8000s HSS no problem.

Maybe in the future, Adorama will do what Jenbei is doing and put out a second version of the transmitter. Or in the future, something straight up better in general that can trigger, control power, etc, and not be a cheap little generic transmitter, but something of quality & substance. I'd buy one then and be good to go. Until then, YN622's do everything beautifully.

While the concept of needing no wires, no external packs, etc, was true, I ultimately added a little "wire & pack" to my Rovelight via the YN622 + cable. But, it still doesn't have stuff flying around or hanging. I attached it with a velcro pad so I can take it on and off and it's secure while shooting. I'm still happy not having all the external stuff.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/wBrZ​Ct IMG_8275_marked by Martin Wise, on Flickr

Very best,

Thank you for the very informative post! I'm even more excited to play around with it now!

Sure beats compromising with the power, SS, and light quality from a speed light...

Here's a few I took with my speedlight. I hope I'll be able to get much better photos with the RL!

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/tPa4​Nd

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/t9Uv​eX

elv wrote in post #17675254
Placing the Rovelight transmitter on a cold shoe, then connected to the YN-622X transmitter, only removes the need for an external YN-622C receiver to be attached to the Rovelight.

Unfortunately the current Rovelight / Jinbei transmitter has often prooved to be unreliable in firing the flash consistently anyway. So as others have mentioned its often better to use YN-622C transmitter and receivers to fire the flash.

Remote power control with the Rovelight / Jinbe transmitter is less critical to responding instantly every time when needed (like a transmitter used to fire the flash in sync with the camera).

Excellent. Thank you! I've read extensively about the RL and the terrible quality of the transmitter. haha Thankfully I have 3 YN622's and a YN622-TX which will serve me well!

MalVeauX wrote in post #17675253
Heya,

I too was tired of dealing with ND filters at the strength I was needing for Florida sun (to be able to use F1.4, F2, F2.8), it was getting to be too much, and the speedlites just couldn't begin to touch that sun. So it was time for something with serious output that was still very portable.

Yeap, one sync port cable to the YN622 and into the back of the Rovelight and you're set. You don't even have to use the stock transmitter. It's only good really for remote changing of power levels anyways. Just read the manual on how to put the unit (the Rovelight) into HSS and you're good to go. You do not need a cold shoe or any of that. I still remotely control the power from the transmitter (the stock one). I just put it in my pocket and use it when I need to. Otherwise, all I use is the YN622 on my camera and the YN622 + sync cable to the Rovelight. Nothing else. Does HSS like a dream, and mine does 1/8000s HSS no problem.

Maybe in the future, Adorama will do what Jenbei is doing and put out a second version of the transmitter. Or in the future, something straight up better in general that can trigger, control power, etc, and not be a cheap little generic transmitter, but something of quality & substance. I'd buy one then and be good to go. Until then, YN622's do everything beautifully.

While the concept of needing no wires, no external packs, etc, was true, I ultimately added a little "wire & pack" to my Rovelight via the YN622 + cable. But, it still doesn't have stuff flying around or hanging. I attached it with a velcro pad so I can take it on and off and it's secure while shooting. I'm still happy not having all the external stuff.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/wBrZ​Ct IMG_8275_marked by Martin Wise, on Flickr

Very best,

Which cable is that? The cable is not included in this set? I don't think so as I don't see it listed.
http://www.adorama.com​/ynyn622n.html

PECE Photo wrote in post #17675368
Which cable is that? The cable is not included in this set? I don't think so as I don't see it listed.
http://www.adorama.com​/ynyn622n.html

It's a generic pc sync cable. Link from Amazon ($7?). And here's one by Yongnuo that is cheaper actually, hah (Amazon).

Copper is copper.

In those images, the speedlite did plenty of work. The difference between a lot of lights and how it effects lighting in your photo is actually the modifier and placement and how close it is. With a big 60" reflector, you can easily take the Rovelight on a stand to a location like that and get better quality light. But personally if I were going to a remote hike location like that, I'd probably have used a speedlite with umbrella myself.

Very best,

MalVeaux (or anyone) but you I think said you had a shoot through but also a 48" Octo.. since ive never owned a "non umbrella" softbox would you recommend I spring extra for the umbrella style for space that that i may get sick of assembling/tear down of the box, or is it not that bad? I would imagine fully assembled you cant leave it around, especially if space was tight... I do want to get a larger 48" suitable for two people, but should I just spring for the umbrella style and skip the hassle?

http://www.amazon.com …cr_pr_product_t​op?ie=UTF8

Thanks!