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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 15 Aug 2014 (Friday) 15:40
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Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

 
PECE ­ Photo
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Post edited over 4 years ago by PECE Photo.
     
Aug 20, 2015 12:57 |  #796

I have a couple of soft boxes I used to use with speedlights. I now want to use them with the rove. The rove doesn't fit in the speed ring I used.

Would either one of these be all I need to attach my soft Boxes? Both my soft boxes have the four guide rods for support and attachment to the mount.

http://www.amazon.com …tbox-BWRing/dp/B007PM029A (external link)

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …jMEBw&is=REG&Q=​&A=details (external link)

Thanks!


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OceanRipple*
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Aug 20, 2015 15:23 as a reply to  @ PECE Photo's post |  #797

Hi, Depends on the exact softbox types - and, if they use a speedring, exactly which type(s). Can you provide links?

Bowen S inserts (aka adapters) vary in their depth (length along their axis of symmetry). Generally I'd be looking for the least depth to ensure that the flash ring protrudes as far into the modifier as possible.




  
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PECE ­ Photo
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Aug 20, 2015 20:30 |  #798

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17676714 (external link)
Hi, Depends on the exact softbox types - and, if they use a speedring, exactly which type(s). Can you provide links?

Bowen S inserts (aka adapters) vary in their depth (length along their axis of symmetry). Generally I'd be looking for the least depth to ensure that the flash ring protrudes as far into the modifier as possible.

Thanks.

Here is my larger soft box.

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …T426_24_x_32_So​ftbox.html (external link)


One Light Real Estate Photography Course: http://www.pecephoto.c​om/one-light-tutorial/ (external link)

  
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stewbeth
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Aug 21, 2015 00:45 as a reply to  @ post 17675938 |  #799

Yes have no problem triggering the rove and a youngou speed light together using the 622c. Also can adjust the speed light in camera still.




  
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nprotz
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Aug 21, 2015 01:46 |  #800

stewbeth wrote in post #17677210 (external link)
Yes have no problem triggering the rove and a youngou speed light together using the 622c. Also can adjust the speed light in camera still.

Awesome thanks! Have you tried using HSS on both the rovelight and speed light together? I assume it will work even tho they way they both work are different




  
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OceanRipple*
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Aug 21, 2015 06:15 as a reply to  @ PECE Photo's post |  #801

Hi, Thanks. Unfortunately that link doesn't reveal the Speedring / Insert type in use . .




  
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bobbyz
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Post edited over 4 years ago by bobbyz. (2 edits in all)
     
Aug 21, 2015 10:46 |  #802

digitalduck wrote in post #17675404 (external link)
Thanks Malveaux! My biggest problem is I have an Impact 60" but its only the white with black cover... no reflective silver.. cant find that specific one on Amazon without looking at other locations. So, Id be buying another... I still see how its worth it however..

Do remember that umbrellas are lot more pain when shooting outdoors in any wind compared to a softbox. I would get umbrella style octa if I was looking for one. Makes life easier when setting up and tearing down. I use SP systems octa which is basically an elinchrom deep octa. But I am only shooting single person shots.

Umbrella wise I think mine is photogenic eclipse with covering for those ribs.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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bobbyz
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Aug 21, 2015 11:08 |  #803

MalVeauX wrote in post #17675772 (external link)
Heya,

Just to help out with modifiers, power in bright sun in Florida, and all that, here's some quick examples I just did in the yard. Nearly died of heat stroke! But any reason is a good reason to have a sweet pipe and take some photographs. Nothing ground breaking, just wanted to show the difference real fast between a 48" softbox and a 60" bounce umbrella at relatively similar distances to subject and what kind of light can be had at full power (1/1) with the Rovelight in full sun (Florida!).

Rovelight 600B (600Ws) at 1/1 full power & 1/2 power, in HSS mode, snail recycle (I keep it slow to get more shots per charge).
Yongnuo YN622c with PC Sync cable into back of Rovelight, velcro'd to the light.
Modifiers: Fotodiox EZ Pro 48" Octa (two linings) in Bowen's Mount & Impact 60" Silver lined White Umbrella with Black cover.
Stand: Cheetahstand Boom Stand with counter weight bag (4x 12oz cans of water and some cables & stakes in there).
Camera: 5Dc with a Tamron 90mm F2.8 VC, YN622 trigger, and a remote radio trigger to take selfies (Pixel Oppilas wireless remote).
Settings: 1/2000s F2.8 ISO 100 (flash at 1/2), and 1/4000s F2.8 ISO 100 (flash at 1/1)

I dropped ambient light significantly to see how much I could get back from the Rovelight via the two modifiers.

Overall, I was able to drop exposure a little in post, so it was more than enough to over power the sun here at full power and decent distance (4~5 feet or so).

***************

Softbox: Fotodiox EZ Pro 48" Octa ($110 new)

First image: 1/2000s, F2.8, ISO 100 - No lighting! To show ambient and back-lit forced into shadow subject.
Second image: 1/2000s, F2.8, ISO 100 - Rovelight at 1/2 power in HSS.
Third image: 1/4000s, F2.8, ISO 100 - Rovelight at 1/1 (full) power in HSS.

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xydX​RN  (external link) IMG_8277 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

Results:

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xhxe​kv  (external link) IMG_4834 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xhqS​TS  (external link) IMG_4838 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xwpz​ku  (external link) IMG_4841 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

***************

Umbrella (configured as a Bounce Surface): Impact 60" Silver Umbrella with Black Cover ($30 new)

Please forgive that I managed to move or miss focus, but the point is the light anyways.

I kept the same exposure values from before, but simply swapped to a different modifier and moved it a little bit.

Image: 1/4000s, F2.8, ISO 100. Rovelight at 1/1 power, bouncing off a silver 60" umbrella.

https://flic.kr/p/xydT​mL (external link)IMG_8283 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

Result:

https://flic.kr/p/xzDy​ER (external link)IMG_4844 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

***************

So the take home message is the light.

Again I love the look of the softbox. But the ease of the umbrella is so much lighter, portable, simple. I love it too.

Overall neither are bad to use, and I suggest both types!

Here's both modifiers and the Rovelight on the stand as I moved it outside for this today:

https://flic.kr/p/xhqX​kh (external link)IMG_8286 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

The softbox breaks down like an umbrella, just a bit bigger.

Hope that helps you figure things out.

Very best,

Thanks for doing this. One quick question/comment. The ambient says ISO100, f2.8, 1/2000 and it seems under-exposed. Sunny 16 would give, ISO100, f2.8, 1/3200. So it looks ambient is already low. Would be really nice to see a subject in direct sun shot and then show affect of HSS/strobe nuking out the ambient.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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MalVeauX
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Post edited over 4 years ago by MalVeauX.
     
Aug 21, 2015 13:39 |  #804

bobbyz wrote in post #17677631 (external link)
Thanks for doing this. One quick question/comment. The ambient says ISO100, f2.8, 1/2000 and it seems under-exposed. Sunny 16 would give, ISO100, f2.8, 1/3200. So it looks ambient is already low. Would be really nice to see a subject in direct sun shot and then show affect of HSS/strobe nuking out the ambient.

Ambient was a little lower than the brightest possible, yes. It was underexposed on purpose on top of further being lower light than the brightest possible.

As you can see though at 1/4000s, it is nuking the ambient.

I'll do another series soon, I have to work this weekend, at high-noon.

I just picked up a 24x36" reflector to help with adding a rim/fill light from my key light to help with things like popping my smoke and details like that.

I'll re-do it all as soon as I get another free day, for now it's raining farm animals here and I work all weekend, but I'll have something in the next 5~6 days (ugh!).

Very best,


My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
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stewbeth
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Aug 21, 2015 17:19 as a reply to  @ nprotz's post |  #805

I haven't had any issues. No black bar but I really don't use two lights until hss is not needed. The sun acts as my backlight for most hss full sun work.




  
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mpstan
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Aug 23, 2015 00:21 |  #806

Just thought I'd check in quickly........... I purchased a used Jimbei HD-600, which is one generation younger than the Rovelight (HD-600 II).

Got my sync cord today and ran this older strobe, (which doesn't support HSS on contrast to the Rovelight) with my YN622C-TX on my camera and a YN622C trigger on my strobe. I have to set the transmitter on HSS. On full power my 5D3 won't sync past 1/200, but if I power down slightly, to 1/2 power plus 1/3, it will sync all the way out to 1/8000.

I have a PCB Octa 47" coming in a few days. Cant' wait......

Thanks for all the help everyone


5D Mk 3/// Canon 70-200 f/4L /// Canon 24mm 2.8 ///Sigma 85 1.4 ART ///Sigma 35 1.4 ART/// Godox AD360/// Flashpoint Li-Ion x 2
//Manfrotto 055XPRO /// Manfrotto 498 RC2 Ballhead///Jinbei HD-600///

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PECE ­ Photo
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Aug 23, 2015 11:41 |  #807

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17677338 (external link)
Hi, Thanks. Unfortunately that link doesn't reveal the Speedring / Insert type in use . .

I bought the one from adorama and it works perfectly with my soft boxes and the rove. Pcb Plm will have to wait a while :)


One Light Real Estate Photography Course: http://www.pecephoto.c​om/one-light-tutorial/ (external link)

  
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OceanRipple*
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Aug 23, 2015 16:47 as a reply to  @ PECE Photo's post |  #808

Good to hear.




  
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digitalduck
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Post edited over 4 years ago by digitalduck.
     
Aug 23, 2015 18:29 as a reply to  @ OceanRipple*'s post |  #809

These are my first attempts, literally, with my Rovelight. I just received it Wednesday and this thing is a beast. I also picked up a 48' Octo and so far love the quality of light. I just need to work on placement of light compared to power output to get the best overall result. I shot everything at 2.8 and have been trying to keep shutter around 1000-2000. A few questions:

1. I know my light meter cant snyc above 1000 to determine my aperture (flash power) but really if I am trying to get 2.8, does that really matter? If im at 2000 shutter speed, but meter only goes to 1000, is it still giving me an accurate reading of 2.8? On the flip side, I know i can just determine my shutter speed and then season to taste with my flash by shooting a test and seeing where I need to go from there.

I know there are other shots on this thread that have models full length portrait and others and they look fantastic, i really think it has a lot to do with available light (golden hour) as well utilizing HSS....in the right way.

2. I did get about 3 pics where it looked like the shutter was still giving me a bank in the upper quarter of the frame and my SS was around 2000 plus I was in HSS on both camera and RL.... thoughts as to why I would still see the shutter?


IMAGE: http://i57.tinypic.com/30jmzio.jpg

Canon 60D
2.8
1/2000
Tamron 70-200 2.8

IMAGE: http://i62.tinypic.com/5kn4zn.jpg


Canon 60D
2.8
1/800
Sigma 17059 2.8

IMAGE: http://i60.tinypic.com/znooro.jpg



Canon 60D
2.8
1/1600
Tamron 70-200 2.8

IMAGE: http://i62.tinypic.com/2vio6eh.jpg

Canon 60D
2.8
1/1000
Tamron 70-200 2.8

IMAGE: http://i61.tinypic.com/1z17m7k.jpg



  
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bobbyz
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Aug 23, 2015 20:56 |  #810

Looks pretty good shots.


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?
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