Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17694035
Hi, re External Flashmeter & High Shutter Speed use . . I think not.

Bobbyz posted somewhere to that effect and in my testing my L358 did not reflect what the camera's sensor captured. IMO essentially the meter has no way of knowing that 1) there is now a delay between the flash starting and the initiation of FP shutter opening and 2) the shutter opening is now a moving slot. If a meter has high shutter speeds associated with flash, I think their engineers had leaf shutters in mind.

So with an FP shutter body and above max sync speed shutter setting, I think the 'Terry toweling / blinkies' approach is probably the best to go for.

To make things even more confusing, I have a Jinbei HD-600, one model prior to the Jinbei HD-600 II which is HSS capable, and which is basically the same as the Rovelight. My model does not have any HSS settings on it, and is again not advertized as HSS.

However......... when I use my Yongnuo 622C-TX, in HSS mode, my camera syncs up just fine unless I am at full power.......then I have problems. If I take it one click down from full power, I sync up to 1/8000 no problem.

As I continue to study and learn about strobe photography I find many gifted people either shoot stopped down a lot; a few use ND filters. Most folks appear to get by without HSS with mainstream high quality strobes and don't appear to miss HSS.

What I see comes up a lot is how many photographers use a light meter to set up shots. Do many of us Rovelight users use one? Obvious followup question.......... since my camera seems to sync OK with a non HSS strobe just because my trigger is in HSS mode, would you imagine a light meter would not work accurately in that situation?

thanks

Hi, It gets confusing with different versions and possibly different meaning associated with the 'H lightening bolt' symbol. My experience is with the 'V' version Jinbei HD600.

Certainly there's no problem using an external flash meter if the 'sync' trigger is initiated when the first FP shutter blade completes its opening travel. I think problems only arise with FP shutters when the early trigger associated with both 'HSS' (Canon's usage) and ODS, Supersync & other versions of the 'Early trigger - Long burn' hack, is in use. Then the external meter cannot 'know' about the flash starting before the first curtain moves, nor about the light wasted hitting (carefully blacked) moving shutter blades.

In the end, experience with your individual kit will inform what works & what doesn't.

Info on T0.1 times under both Normal & 'H lightening bolt' modes, available here:
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1439469

I finally got to try the rl600 out but I had trouble getting my setting up high-speed sync.

I'm using the Canon 6D with a yn622-c on the RL and a yn622c-tx on the camera body.

For some reason, it wouldn't let me shoot higher than 1/180th, the max as for non HSS flash.

What do I have to disable to allow me to go above 1/180th? It was driving me crazy and I still haven't been able to figure it out.

The only time this happened to me, I had the unit on the camera (the TX) set for normal shooting mode, not TX.. When I changed the sync/fn mode by toggling that button, to HSS, I was golden. I hope it's that easy for you.

I had this on my Nikon and had to switch it to fp mode on. Not sure if that is the problem, or what is the equivalent on canon.

Thanks guys! I figured it out and realized it was because of my TX. I reset it by pressing the two middle buttons to "Clear" and it started working!

BlazingSkies wrote in post #17695593
I emailed you a week ago about my overheating problem, no reply...

I'm sorry - I was waiting for a response from the Purchasing Manager

BlazingSkies wrote in post #17695593
I called Adorama and they are making to an RMA and I have to pay for the shipping label... from Canada! No less.

If it had been within the first 30 days we'd have covered the return shipping costs, but the unit is almost a year old, right? So you are returning it under the 12-month warranty. I think I'm correct in saying that it isn't unusual for a manufacturer to require a customer to pay return shipping for warranty attention.

Bought my Rovelight, took some test shots (yay) and was SUPER excited.

The next day, the sync cord snapped off in the input. So now there is a metal piece stuck down in there- and due to the "lip" on the input, I can't get it out.

ARGGGGG.

Most sync cords are junk. I had Rob (TMRDesign) make me some couple yrs back and that money was well worth it. I wished I got couple more at the time.

AHHHH my husband is FABULOUS and managed to finally get the metal piece out with a dental hook. Yay!!!!

Does anyone use this with a Sony A7 body?

Are there any hitches with these bodies? It doesn't seem like there would be, but I'm not sure. Are triggers limited?

I use it with an A7II and Yonugno triggers.
It works perfectly but you won't have HSS capabilities.

ndrr13 wrote in post #17707764
I use it with an A7II and Yonugno triggers.
It works perfectly but you won't have HSS capabilities.

Well that's a big negative. Is there anyway to get HSS with A7 bodies?

I think you can only use Pixel kings or Phottix Odens. I wished Yonugno would make triggers for the sony, but It's only a wish. Have you thought about using an ND filter?

ndrr13 wrote in post #17707856
Have you thought about using an ND filter?

That's what I use now with my other lights!