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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 15 Aug 2014 (Friday) 15:40
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Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

 
HeatherKan
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Sep 20, 2015 01:09 |  #886

Well, sadly I wasn't able to make use of the HSS feature for my beach wedding today (WAY too windy!), but it performed amiably later in the night! Here's the edit and the SOOC.

Canon 5dmrkiii
Sigma 35 Art 1.4 at f/2.8
1/160th
ISO200
Flashpoint RL600 in 44in bounce umbrella with diffusion panel, at 1/32(?), camera right, high up and aimed down at couple.


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OceanRipple*
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Sep 20, 2015 04:18 as a reply to  @ HeatherKan's post |  #887

^^ Very nice. (Maybe time for a sensor clean?)

It reminds me to ask; what's the best / easiest way to gel a Jinbei / Rovelight HD600? TIA




  
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HeatherKan
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Sep 20, 2015 08:46 as a reply to  @ OceanRipple*'s post |  #888

Nope, no sensor issues- that's alllll bugs haha. SUPER buggy, but at least they weren't biting! (and thank you!)




  
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Robsphoto
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Sep 21, 2015 20:22 |  #889

New triggers!


Adorama: The new triggers have been tested extensively, and we are very happy with the results. They are already on the way to us!

Adorama: The new trigger will be designated RRRL600-V2
We added a power amplifier to increase the trigger power. The old one is just 0-3 dBm, the new one is about 14 dBm, GREATLY improving the range and consistency.
The new trigger uses the same frequencies and channels as the old trigger, so it can seamlessly replace the existing system for current owners.


Happy Shooting:lol:

  
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HeatherKan
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Sep 21, 2015 21:17 |  #890

Robsphoto wrote in post #17716635 (external link)
New triggers!


Adorama: The new triggers have been tested extensively, and we are very happy with the results. They are already on the way to us!

Adorama: The new trigger will be designated RRRL600-V2
We added a power amplifier to increase the trigger power. The old one is just 0-3 dBm, the new one is about 14 dBm, GREATLY improving the range and consistency.
The new trigger uses the same frequencies and channels as the old trigger, so it can seamlessly replace the existing system for current owners.

Will current owners be able to buy the new triggers? Or must they come with newly bought units only? (cus... I may have already lost mine lol)




  
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HeatherKan
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Post edited over 4 years ago by HeatherKan.
     
Sep 21, 2015 21:19 |  #891

Got to do another session with it today and am loving it!

4pm: nowhere near golden hour around here (sky was 100% blown in ambient-only shots)

Canon 5dmrkiii
1/2500th (!)
Sigma Art 50 1.4 at f/2
ISO200
Flashpoint RL600 at 1/2 power (?) through 44in silver bounce umbrella with white diffusion panel, camera left, high up on stand.


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flowrider
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Sep 21, 2015 22:25 |  #892

Robsphoto wrote in post #17716635 (external link)
New triggers!


Adorama: The new triggers have been tested extensively, and we are very happy with the results. They are already on the way to us!

Adorama: The new trigger will be designated RRRL600-V2
We added a power amplifier to increase the trigger power. The old one is just 0-3 dBm, the new one is about 14 dBm, GREATLY improving the range and consistency.
The new trigger uses the same frequencies and channels as the old trigger, so it can seamlessly replace the existing system for current owners.

When can I buy one?


~Steve~
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HelenOster
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Sep 22, 2015 06:00 |  #893

HeatherKan wrote in post #17716681 (external link)
Will current owners be able to buy the new triggers? Or must they come with newly bought units only? (cus... I may have already lost mine lol)

You need to email me directly, with your order number: Helen@adorama.com



  
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HelenOster
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Sep 22, 2015 06:04 |  #894

flowrider wrote in post #17716791 (external link)
When can I buy one?

You need to email me directly, with your order number: Helen@adorama.com



  
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mdrtoys
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Sep 22, 2015 23:11 |  #895

I have 3 of these and love them....I've had them for a fe months and I'm very, very hard on my equipment. I've dropped them down stairs, one has been dropped in the pool twice and still work perfectly.

If the new trigger is better, I might move over from the Odins I've been using but I do love the Odins

Oh, and just so people know, I sold my Profit B1's for these and have never looked back...( I get more shots per battery as well)




  
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mpstan
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Post edited over 4 years ago by mpstan.
     
Sep 27, 2015 23:31 |  #896

Question for all Rovelighters: Do you use a manual lightmeter when shooting above sync speed, and if so how do you?

I can only set my Sekonic 478 meter to 1/1000 sec in wireless flash mode. Can, or do you work around this with your meter, or do you set your ambient, and chimp your way to exposing your subject properly?

Am I looking at this right?
Let's say my ambient settings are 1/4000, F2.8 and ISO 100. I want my ambient to be 1 stop underexposed. I set my camera's manual settings one stop underexposed, so 1/8000, f2.8, iso 100. If I want to properly expose my subject one stop higher, could I set my meter in flash mode to 1/1000, ISO 100, then just aim for two stops higher than ambient (2.8, 4.0, 5.6...) so meter my flash to 5.6? Or perhaps the meter doesn't see the strobes light properly above camera sync speed?

Thanks everybody


5D Mk 3/// Canon 70-200 f/4L /// Canon 24mm 2.8 ///Sigma 85 1.4 ART ///Sigma 35 1.4 ART/// Godox AD360/// Flashpoint Li-Ion x 2
//Manfrotto 055XPRO /// Manfrotto 498 RC2 Ballhead///Jinbei HD-600///

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MalVeauX
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Sep 27, 2015 23:35 |  #897

mpstan wrote in post #17724309 (external link)
Question for all Rovelighters: Do you use a manual lightmeter when shooting above sync speed, and if so how do you?

I can only set my Sekonic 478 meter to 1/1000 sec in wireless flash mode. Can, or do you work around this with your meter, or do you set your ambient, and chimp your way to exposing your subject properly?

Am I looking at this right?
Let's say my ambient settings are 1/4000, F2.8 and ISO 100. I want my ambient to be 1 stop underexposed. I set my camera's manual settings one stop underexposed, so 1/8000, f2.8, iso 100. If I want to properly expose my subject one stop higher, could I set my meter in flash mode to 1/1000, ISO 100, then just aim for two stops higher than ambient (2.8, 4.0, 5.6...) so 5.6? Or perhaps the meter doesn't see the strobes light properly above camera sync speed?

Thanks everybody

Heya,

I don't use a light meter. I generally get where I want to be within 1 or 2 chimped shots, tops. I like to start around 1/4th power in sunlight. Generally I end up at 1/2, 1/4 or 1/8 (using a 48" octa &/or 60" bounce silver lined umbrella), so it's always within 1 chimped shot pretty much unless the light is too close to the subject. When it's really dark and I don't need the output of this light, I'm using speedlites and below sync speed anyways, as they're more portable and less heavy and I can literally hold up a softbox with speedlite in one hand and shoot with the other if need be.

I generally just take that one shot at 1/4th power in sunlight, at my setup range, and say "Hey, gonna test for exposure" and fire off an image. I look at it and adjust or stay where I am and I'm good to go.

Very best,


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OceanRipple*
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Sep 28, 2015 03:20 as a reply to  @ mpstan's post |  #898

It's come up a couple of times in this thread - consensus seems to be that most flashmeters will not help you when the Rovelight/Jinbei HD600 is set to 'H' and the camera is operating above its usual max sync speed. Either chimp - or - use the white-terry-towelling/blinkies technique.




  
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studio460
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Sep 28, 2015 04:32 |  #899

Robsphoto wrote in post #17712712 (external link)
No hitches and can synch up to 1/8000 on the 7r,7s and 7II. Odin transmitter on camera and receiver attached to strobe via 3.5mm cable....

Is that via a pulsed (HSS-like) mode, or accomplished with a sync-timing hack (HyperSync-like), illumination?


LEARN LIGHT LIGHTBASICS.COM (external link)

  
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mmmfotografie
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Sep 28, 2015 05:57 |  #900

studio460 wrote in post #17724535 (external link)
Is that via a pulsed (HSS-like) mode, or accomplished with a sync-timing hack (HyperSync-like), illumination?

It needs two to tango. The flash has to be set in the longburn mode (HSS mode) and the trigger has to give a pre-sync signal.

HyperSync uses the 'long' flash duration of speedlights when on full power and it is indeed a hack.




  
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Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?
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