Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

The Rovelight / Jinbei HD600 does not pulse to (briefly) emulate continuous light. It relies on the long burn and early trigger, as mentioned above. The Strobe needs to be set to its 'H' setting and a suitable trigger needs to be extracting the early signal usually associated with HSS.

Jinbei have tweaked things slightly to reduce but not eliminate the gradation associated with 'Long burn' techniques, as mentioned with examples & a duration plot in other threads:
eg:
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1441160

Well I took my rovelight on a outdoor shoot (3rd one with this light) and after the 3 or 4th test shot it just stopped firing. it will not fire with the test button or with the trigger. My buddy was with me so i tried his battery. still will not fire. after doing many test I found that it will fire if not in HHS mode but will fire in normal mode.
but even though it does fire every few triggers it will fire way too high and over expose.
I had to use my friends light for most of the shoot.
I called adorama but they are closed for holiday.
anyone else with this problem???

drebel187 wrote in post #17725475
Well I took my rovelight on a outdoor shoot (3rd one with this light) and after the 3 or 4th test shot it just stopped firing. it will not fire with the test button or with the trigger. My buddy was with me so i tried his battery. still will not fire. after doing many test I found that it will fire if not in HHS mode but will fire in normal mode.
but even though it does fire every few triggers it will fire way too high and over expose.
I had to use my friends light for most of the shoot.
I called adorama but they are closed for holiday.
anyone else with this problem???

Sounds like a fault. Contact Helen, or call Adorama when they're open and get an RMA.

Very best,

Just an update on my battery issue where it wouldn't charge. Helen tried her best to help me out but in the end I had to call customer service because I couldn't find my order number no matter what we did.

The CS rep found it and RMA'ed it for me. Great customer service all around!

Question : when using HSS , does this unit overheats when shooting like 40 shots with 60 seconds resting time in between shots.

PhilF wrote in post #17725716
Question : when using HSS , does this unit overheats when shooting like 40 shots with 60 seconds resting time in between shots.

Heya,

I've yet to do 40 continuous HSS shots at high power like literally popping off a shot as soon as it recycled. I generally shoot on snail to get more shots per charge. I've never over-heated doing HSS shots out in the hot sun here in Florida.

Very best,

PhilF wrote in post #17725716
Question : when using HSS , does this unit overheats when shooting like 40 shots with 60 seconds resting time in between shots.

I've shot it on hss full power while sitting in the sun at about 78 degrees f, about 50 shots recycle times were a few seconds. No problem.

I've used it a number of times now full power same scenario but no hss. No problems.

First time using my Jinbei (OK not exactly a Rovelight, but close enough, and I have you all to thank for helping me find it) and my just newly completed home studio. Shot my wife with my 5D3 and newly acquired Tamron 24-70 2.8 VC. PCB 47" Octa. Next time I'll have a reflector camera left to open up eyes and right side of her face.

IMAGE LINK: https://pstanfield.smu​gmug.com …/XL/%20-2-XL.jpg&lb=1&s=A

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17691165
For a softbox that's more compact, consider Phottix's Luna Octo. They come in 70cm & 110cm sizes and are very easy to setup. The smaller ones have a primary reflector a la BD, while the larger one has 2 diffusion layers. The Phottix versions don't have grids, however there are Ebay copies now that do offer grids.

re Your last paragraph; the answer is yes. It's only HSS that messes things up slightly.

re Boom arms; I think MalVeaux's item is about as light as you can go with a RL /Jinbei 600. There are times where only a boom will do, but if you just want to shoot under the modifier with the stand slightly offset to one side . . consider an Extension Arm on a grip head, but you'd need a C stand or equivalent . . or . .

(two super-clamps with standard extension pieces & a 16mm aluminium rod) and you need some significant weight or a tie-down.

Hosted photo: posted by OceanRipple* in
./showthread.php?p=176​91165&i=i233289565
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

OceanRipple - What is the item you have holding the trigger to the top of the strobe??

I just got one of these Rovelights and I'm using YN622c triggers. I've taped and tried using velcro to attach mine to the top. Yours looks much more sturdy. Can you post up a link or description of your contraption?

Thanks for reminding me. I've been meaning to pick up some double sided tape to go with a cheap cold shoe I picked up awhile ago. I've had mine out on site a few times, and keep forgetting about that till I'm in the field, and end up just using masking tape or hanging my cactus V5 from its core that gets wrapped around the light stand.

Eventually I might try to replace the umbrella holder with something more adjustable, and build a cold shoe into that. Still debating if I'm modifying the holder to work better with my 7' parabolic, or modifying the umbrella to use the bowens mount.

I know these come with their own trigger, but why don't they build these strobes with cold shoes built-in?

Where would you put the cold shoe (or hot pins)? It really depends on what trigger the person is using. With my Cactus triggers I kind of want one on a projections off the side so that the 'top' of the trigger is in light with the back of the strobe such that I can clearly see my trigger settings along with the light's back display. Other models would do better on the top.

A $5 cold shoe and some 3M double sided tape lets the end user stick them where they want them, and doesn't add to the flash's production costs.

Luckless wrote in post #17729070
Where would you put the cold shoe (or hot pins)? It really depends on what trigger the person is using. With my Cactus triggers I kind of want one on a projections off the side so that the 'top' of the trigger is in light with the back of the strobe such that I can clearly see my trigger settings along with the light's back display. Other models would do better on the top.

A $5 cold shoe and some 3M double sided tape lets the end user stick them where they want them, and doesn't add to the flash's production costs.

That is a good point. Hence, I like OceanRipple's setup because it appears to be rotational. Sometime the top isn't the most ideal.

What big light modifiers is everyone using with their RL600? I was thinking of buying a 53" Elinchrome Rotalux or possibly even the 69" version. Is the light sturdy enough to handle these big octabanks?

Hi, My Stratos II Rx (respects Odin's early trigger when set so to deliver) has a female tripod thread - so I just punched a small 1/4 in hole through the Velcro buckle strap, put a 1/4 thumbscrew through that hole into the Rx. I put a thin 'penny' of BluTak under the thumbscrew. Then - just cinched the buckle strap up.

I like it because everything stays put, but there is 'give' in the system, so that if I caught the Rx during setup, I hope to avoid damage as nothing is rigidly fixed. Also, there's no permanent alteration to the unit.

If the chosen Rx unit did not have a tripod thread, you could add a simple cold shoe as necessary.

Slightly clearer photo: