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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 15 Aug 2014 (Friday) 15:40
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Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

 
agv8or
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Oct 30, 2015 08:41 as a reply to  @ post 17765228 |  #991

You may have an issue with the Rovelight but have you ruled out your radio triggers? A few pages back you posted a picture with the Yongnuo 622 transmitter and a Rovelight so I am assuming that is what you are using for HSS. I have never been able to get my Rovelights to work in HSS with the YN622's (I have 3 622 transceivers and 1 transmitter). I have tried every configuration and followed the Flash Havoc article but nothing works. My Yongnuo YN-E3-RT/YNE3-RX combo works great as does my Phottix Odins and when using the Odins ODS timing I can pick up another full stop of flash Exposure when using HSS.


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MalVeauX
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Oct 30, 2015 21:13 |  #992

Heya,

Rovelight 600B used today with a 48" octa. HSS used, around 1/2 to 1/8th power depending on range, mostly tried to just use it as fill. Didn't skip a beat though.

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Very best,

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PhilF
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Oct 31, 2015 01:00 as a reply to  @ agv8or's post |  #993

What was used out in the field are 2 YN622c... not the TX. The YN622 works flawlessly using with the YN600RT in HSS.

When used with the Rovelight, HSS is very inconsistent.... it works in the studio and when used out in the field HSS doesn't work.


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Oct 31, 2015 01:04 as a reply to  @ post 17765413 |  #994

User was sure the H lighting bolt was on ... turned off and reset the camera and unit a couple of times.... had to finish the job just using Manual mode no HSS. The studio bought the unit because of it's HSS and 600 w/s capability.... so far, we are disappointed. Hopefully we got a bad unit.


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OceanRipple*
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Oct 31, 2015 03:42 as a reply to  @ MalVeauX's post |  #995

Hi Martin, I enjoy seeing your pics.

In the top 2 in particular, the inevitable gradient is noticeable (darker cam right). Your light seems to be above the camera, fractionally to cam left. For portrait orientation shots, those top 2 in particular, do you remember if your camera was rotated to shutter button up or shutter button down? Given the gradient, my guess would be for shutter button down, but of course I'd like to hear your thoughts. Cheers




  
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Oct 31, 2015 04:02 |  #996

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17766593 (external link)
Hi Martin, I enjoy seeing your pics.

In the top 2 in particular, the inevitable gradient is noticeable (darker cam right). Your light seems to be above the camera, fractionally to cam left. For portrait orientation shots, those top 2 in particular, do you remember if your camera was rotated to shutter button up or shutter button down? Given the gradient, my guess would be for shutter button down, but of course I'd like to hear your thoughts. Cheers

Heya,

Yeap, I noticed it too this time. Usually you can't see it in my images with telephoto lenses. But with my wide angle lenses, it's more obvious. They were shutter button down if I recall.

I don't see this effect when I'm in the 1/2000s or less range with telephoto as much. But this is the first time I did 1/4000s with a wide angle lens (35mm) and it's a lot more obvious.

Very best,


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Oct 31, 2015 04:32 as a reply to  @ MalVeauX's post |  #997

Hi, & Tx,

The reason I asked is, if my understanding is correct, specifically with portrait orientation shots, dependent on key light placement, one rotation will lessen the apparent gradient while the opposite rotation will accentuate it!

Given Canon's shutter orientation (shutter slit moves down relative to the sensor, ie moves up relative to the (landscape) image as normally viewed .. ), then the "rule" would be; if the key light is camera Left, then rotate with shutter button up, whereas if the key light is camera Right, then rotate with shutter button down. The gradient doesn't disappear, but to break the "rule" should make the gradient more apparent. Or at least, that's my current thinking.

I wonder if we could get Joey B's take on this, too?




  
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Oct 31, 2015 04:46 |  #998

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17766602 (external link)
Hi, & Tx,

The reason I asked is, if my understanding is correct, specifically with portrait orientation shots, dependent on key light placement, one rotation will lessen the apparent gradient while the opposite rotation will accentuate it!

Given Canon's shutter orientation (shutter slit moves down relative to the sensor, ie moves up relative to the (landscape) image as normally viewed .. ), then the "rule" would be; if the key light is camera Left, then rotate with shutter button up, whereas if the key light is camera Right, then rotate with shutter button down. The gradient doesn't disappear, but to break the "rule" should make the gradient more apparent. Or at least, that's my current thinking.

I wonder if we could get Joey B's take on this, too?

Heya,

I'll have to test this out and see how it affects things. I'll have to do it this week sometime after tomorrow. I'm interested to see.

I'll do a test with Rovelight at camera left & right, with shutter button up/down for each with a subject (probably just use myself). And I'll do one without HSS, and just stack on some ND filters to see how that presents with the same shutter button up/down too, just to see.

Thanks for the tips.

Very best,


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Oct 31, 2015 04:53 |  #999

wow... all these pics showing gradient is not a good sign.

I wonder if the higher end brands will do this too. I don't use HSS as much until we started using the Rovelight a couple of weeks ago.... this is a big concern.


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Oct 31, 2015 04:54 as a reply to  @ MalVeauX's post |  #1000

That would be great.

(Just for lurkers: the gradient I've referred to applies with 'H' ie Supersync only ( - not Pulsing type HSS). Using ND filters and staying within the camera's max sync speed, there should still be the usual Key light 'fall off' but no 'Gradient' at all. HTH)




  
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Oct 31, 2015 10:52 |  #1001

PhilF wrote in post #17766619 (external link)
wow... all these pics showing gradient is not a good sign.

I wonder if the higher end brands will do this too. I don't use HSS as much until we started using the Rovelight a couple of weeks ago.... this is a big concern.

Like I said way back, there is no free lunch. Lot of times for outdoors situations, the gradient doesn't matter that much. And even if it is there, it can be fixed easily in LR. I do wish there was a strobe (cheaper than profoto) with real HSS though. Let us see what that interfit you mentioned does.


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Oct 31, 2015 10:55 |  #1002

Indra500 TTL is the middle ground between the RL 600 and the B1, although I head/read of big colour consistency problems with the indra500, how does the RL 600 compare? and has anybody tried the indra500?


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Oct 31, 2015 11:03 |  #1003

bobbyz wrote in post #17766855 (external link)
Like I said way back, there is no free lunch. Lot of times for outdoors situations, the gradient doesn't matter that much. And even if it is there, it can be fixed easily in LR. I do wish there was a strobe (cheaper than profoto) with real HSS though. Let us see what that interfit you mentioned does.

Supposedly this is how the Phottix Indra achieves HSS by pulsing the flash. It states in the manual that frequent use of HSS will shorten the life of the flash tube.


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Oct 31, 2015 12:48 as a reply to  @ bobbyz's post |  #1004

...adding LR post processing to the workflow in on location high volume portrait shooting is not really business smart.

Let's hope the Interfit S1 is better. Does the Profoto B1 have this problem too?


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OceanRipple*
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Oct 31, 2015 13:25 as a reply to  @ PhilF's post |  #1005

Hi, The S1, Indra 500 & B1 shouldn't have this Gradient issue at all. They are all supposed to have the pulsing output (like Canon's 'HSS') - which keeps the flash output virtually constant for the full duration of the focal plane shutter's slit travel time.

Conversely, the Rovelight/Jinbei and now the Elinchrom EL Skyport plus 'HS' new triggers/lights operating with long duration settings, both rely on the falling tail of a long duration flash. With these two, some Gradient is inevitable. Equally, some beautiful photos have been taken with this technique despite this limitation.




  
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Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?
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