Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

Heya,

This is the one thing that I didn't buy a 2nd battery for. They're so expensive for the batteries, and I didn't know how much usage would truly end up. So far, I've not needed the battery. This thing lasts for a long time depending on use. And it holds for a long time. Charges over night when you're not working. No issues in my book.

Eventually you will have to get a 2nd battery, a new flash bulb, etc. Just normal life expectancy after use for whatever period of time. If you calculate that cost, and look at the cost of a 2nd Rovelight while on sale, you might see more deal in having a 2nd light as a backup in general, with the bulb & battery, than just buying the extra battery!

Very best,

cutwater wrote in post #17792566
Ordered one

<---------- jealous!

MalVeauX wrote in post #17792573
If you calculate that cost, and look at the cost of a 2nd Rovelight while on sale, you might see more deal in having a 2nd light as a backup in general, with the bulb & battery, than just buying the extra battery!

Very best,

For some people risk of divorce is a factor in the cost analysis.

MalVeauX wrote in post #17792573
Heya,

This is the one thing that I didn't buy a 2nd battery for. They're so expensive for the batteries, and I didn't know how much usage would truly end up. So far, I've not needed the battery. This thing lasts for a long time depending on use. And it holds for a long time. Charges over night when you're not working. No issues in my book.

Eventually you will have to get a 2nd battery, a new flash bulb, etc. Just normal life expectancy after use for whatever period of time. If you calculate that cost, and look at the cost of a 2nd Rovelight while on sale, you might see more deal in having a 2nd light as a backup in general, with the bulb & battery, than just buying the extra battery!

Very best,

Martin - I have to say that it's YOUR experiences with the RL 600 and the YN 622 that has me on the verge of being very bad. I'm still not understanding the modifier choices/set up though.

Down side to the Lithium batteries is that they degrade over time, used or not. It's one of the reasons I opted for the standard not the Lithium for my Elinchrom Quadra pack. I didn't think I would be using them enough to justify the degrading Lithium batteries.

PineBomb wrote in post #17792588
For some people risk of divorce is a factor in the cost analysis.

I totally understand that!

The way I see it though, $400 is something you can get away with. Sure, $800 is a lot harder of a pill to swallow. I don't have two Rovelights either. Then again, I don't think I need a 2nd one for what I do. I like having one powerful strobe and a fleet of speedlites so far. Granted, my entire reason for the Rovelight is for beating down the sun here in Florida. I like it for that. For everything else, so far, I like using speedlites or supplementing with speedlites.

That said, if a new Rovelight is $400. And a new battery is $130. And a new bulb is $70. The Rovelight itself is only $200 for the light. So if you look at it like that, for $400, you're getting a backup light for $200, a new battery and a new bulb. Kind of an interesting cost break down. Sure, it's double the price of just getting backup battery & bulb for $200 total. Having the option to just use all the extras with a 2nd light for just $200 more than that makes a ton of sense. Compared to most photography equipment, this is actually quite inexpensive if you think about it!

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17792596
Martin - I have to say that it's YOUR experiences with the RL 600 and the YN 622 that has me on the verge of being very bad. I'm still not understanding the modifier choices/set up though.

So, a Bowen's mount is generic. It's going to work with the majority of modifier options out there. The importance of getting the Bowen's mount instead of the Flashpoint mount or other, is to be able to use modifiers you already have, or modifiers you want to get, that require a mount (this is mostly for softboxes; not umbrellas; think heavier modifiers). The mount type dictates what you can attach to it. While some may be fine with whatever, some want to use the most common that is going to work with almost everything out there, and that's Bowens. It's more of standard, so it's a safer buy for the long term in terms of modifiers you plan on using/getting.

The Rovelight itself comes with a bowl modifier. It helps channel the light. It helps protect the bulb too. I use it at all times unless I'm in a softbox, then I take it off. But when using an umbrella, etc, I keep this bowl on. The bowl has a fitted diffuse cap that cuts down the light output and softens it wee bit. You can use it on it's own as a direct source. Or you can take it off to get more output for efficiency. I do not use the diffuser cap right now for anything other than protection when I'm not using the light. I keep the bowl on at all times, again, unless it's in a softbox, it channels and protects the bulb. This is all that comes with the Rovelight though. It's simple, but it acts as protection and as a modifier if you are just bouncing or using it as a direct light to get as much power output as possible for whatever reason.

From there, just add modifiers. I like umbrellas for ease of use, weight, etc. My 60" bounce umbrella is my favorite source. My 48" softbox octa is my 2nd favorite source. It controls spill better, but it's heavy, and it takes more time to setup than an umbrella does. Again note, the umbrella and modifiers like that, do not care what mount type you purchase (it's not specific to Bowens or anything else). Only things that have speedrings, like Softboxes, have a specific mount to worry about. My Octa softbox is Bowens for example. If I didn't use a softbox, it actually wouldn't matter what mount I had!

Here's what comes with the Rovelight (the bowl & cap; note they are removable and mount to the mount type):

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/vFSM​Ua

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/AF9f​dx

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ADWs​nE

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xydX​RN

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xVAd​41

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xFpt​2M

OceanRipple* wrote in post #17792486
Yes, they supply a 5 in (inner front diameter) reflector. They add a translucent diffuser for it - only safe at the lower powers IMO.
Its shape is a little deep for umbrella use - but it's very easy to source Bowens S fit items for your needs. For instance, I wanted a 7 in reflector with grids ..

I got a set of Chinese grids on eBay with a 7 inch reflector. Great prices at around 35 dollars for 3 grids and they seem to be made well. Just try not to let any children come near them

MalVeauX wrote in post #17792605
I totally understand that!

The way I see it though, $400 is something you can get away with. Sure, $800 is a lot harder of a pill to swallow. I don't have two Rovelights either. Then again, I don't think I need a 2nd one for what I do. I like having one powerful strobe and a fleet of speedlites so far. Granted, my entire reason for the Rovelight is for beating down the sun here in Florida. I like it for that. For everything else, so far, I like using speedlites or supplementing with speedlites.

That said, if a new Rovelight is $400. And a new battery is $130. And a new bulb is $70. The Rovelight itself is only $200 for the light. So if you look at it like that, for $400, you're getting a backup light for $200, a new battery and a new bulb. Kind of an interesting cost break down. Sure, it's double the price of just getting backup battery & bulb for $200 total. Having the option to just use all the extras with a 2nd light for just $200 more than that makes a ton of sense. Compared to most photography equipment, this is actually quite inexpensive if you think about it!

,

Now you're going to make me spend more money! LOL

MalVeauX wrote in post #17792605
I totally understand that!

The way I see it though, $400 is something you can get away with. Sure, $800 is a lot harder of a pill to swallow. I don't have two Rovelights either. Then again, I don't think I need a 2nd one for what I do. I like having one powerful strobe and a fleet of speedlites so far. Granted, my entire reason for the Rovelight is for beating down the sun here in Florida. I like it for that. For everything else, so far, I like using speedlites or supplementing with speedlites.

That said, if a new Rovelight is $400. And a new battery is $130. And a new bulb is $70. The Rovelight itself is only $200 for the light. So if you look at it like that, for $400, you're getting a backup light for $200, a new battery and a new bulb. Kind of an interesting cost break down. Sure, it's double the price of just getting backup battery & bulb for $200 total. Having the option to just use all the extras with a 2nd light for just $200 more than that makes a ton of sense. Compared to most photography equipment, this is actually quite inexpensive if you think about it!

So, a Bowen's mount is generic. It's going to work with the majority of modifier options out there. The importance of getting the Bowen's mount instead of the Flashpoint mount or other, is to be able to use modifiers you already have, or modifiers you want to get, that require a mount (this is mostly for softboxes; not umbrellas; think heavier modifiers). The mount type dictates what you can attach to it. While some may be fine with whatever, some want to use the most common that is going to work with almost everything out there, and that's Bowens. It's more of standard, so it's a safer buy for the long term in terms of modifiers you plan on using/getting.

The Rovelight itself comes with a bowl modifier. It helps channel the light. It helps protect the bulb too. I use it at all times unless I'm in a softbox, then I take it off. But when using an umbrella, etc, I keep this bowl on. The bowl has a fitted diffuse cap that cuts down the light output and softens it wee bit. You can use it on it's own as a direct source. Or you can take it off to get more output for efficiency. I do not use the diffuser cap right now for anything other than protection when I'm not using the light. I keep the bowl on at all times, again, unless it's in a softbox, it channels and protects the bulb. This is all that comes with the Rovelight though. It's simple, but it acts as protection and as a modifier if you are just bouncing or using it as a direct light to get as much power output as possible for whatever reason.

From there, just add modifiers. I like umbrellas for ease of use, weight, etc. My 60" bounce umbrella is my favorite source. My 48" softbox octa is my 2nd favorite source. It controls spill better, but it's heavy, and it takes more time to setup than an umbrella does. Again note, the umbrella and modifiers like that, do not care what mount type you purchase (it's not specific to Bowens or anything else). Only things that have speedrings, like Softboxes, have a specific mount to worry about. My Octa softbox is Bowens for example. If I didn't use a softbox, it actually wouldn't matter what mount I had!

Here's what comes with the Rovelight (the bowl & cap; note they are removable and mount to the mount type):


Here's my favorite way to use the light (as a bounce source; in HSS, still can over power the sun, it's an Impact 60" White Umbrella with black back cover, for $30!; note, I keep the bowl on there, but I take that opaque diffuser cover off the bowl; the bowl serves to protect the bulb and it channels light forward to avoid additional spill):


And here's how I keep it from eating the dirt in the wind (I'm always shooting in wind with a large modifier, it totally will go down fast, so I bungee it down):


Note: the above has nothing to do with mount type. Bowens or not. The mount type only matters for speedring mounted modifiers, like a softbox. Again, my 48" octa requires that.

Here's where the speedring mount type matters (softboxes; and this is the Fotodiox EZPro umbrella style 48" softbox with inner lining; wonderful modifier, collapses nicely for travel, only $100):
r

***************

Very best,

Thanks for the info Martin! You said you've used your RL600 with speedlites. How did you combine and trigger the setup?

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17792719
Thanks for the info Martin! You said you've used your RL600 with speedlites. How did you combine and trigger the setup?

Heya,

When not using HSS, I can just use the 560 protocol of all my speedlites (TX-560 trigger, RF603 on anything that isn't a 560III/IV, including the Rovelight, the RF603 has a pc sync port too, so I use that with the Rovelight in that case). I mostly use 560III's, so this is where I mostly go so they don't require transceivers and the only one is the RF603 on the Rovelight. The speedlites in this case are usually fill and/or rim or a back light, with the Rovelight behind a large modifier. Usually doing this in shade, or in conjunction with ND filters.

I do not use the stock transmitter. Adorama has already received my order for the replacement transmitter, but I won't use it either. There's just no point when the Yongnuo systems are already in place, work with my fleet of all lights, and are bullet proof. The stock transmitter to me is just a remote power changing device, which even with that, I don't use, because if I can't see the power level, after lots of changes, it's pointless to me after a bit as I have to go look at it anyways.

If I want to use HSS, I can just use my existing YN622's with any flash with HSS capability that works on that protocol, like the 568EXII's. But I'm thinking of replacing my 568/565 series with the 685 series so that I can do it without any extra transceivers (less batteries, less transmitters, one trigger... a TX-622 and the one YN622 on the Rovelight).

Very best,

MalVeauX wrote in post #17792726
Heya,

When not using HSS, I can just use the 560 protocol of all my speedlites (TX-560 trigger, RF603 on anything that isn't a 560III/IV, including the Rovelight, the RF603 has a pc sync port too, so I use that with the Rovelight in that case). I mostly use 560III's, so this is where I mostly go so they don't require transceivers and the only one is the RF603 on the Rovelight. The speedlites in this case are usually fill and/or rim or a back light, with the Rovelight behind a large modifier. Usually doing this in shade, or in conjunction with ND filters.

I do not use the stock transmitter. Adorama has already received my order for the replacement transmitter, but I won't use it either. There's just no point when the Yongnuo systems are already in place, work with my fleet of all lights, and are bullet proof. The stock transmitter to me is just a remote power changing device, which even with that, I don't use, because if I can't see the power level, after lots of changes, it's pointless to me after a bit as I have to go look at it anyways.

If I want to use HSS, I can just use my existing YN622's with any flash with HSS capability that works on that protocol, like the 568EXII's. But I'm thinking of replacing my 568/565 series with the 685 series so that I can do it without any extra transceivers (less batteries, less transmitters, one trigger... a TX-622 and the one YN622 on the Rovelight).

Very best,

Ok...let me be more specific: I have the 622TX controller and 622 transceivers. Do you think I could use a 622 on the RL600 (with sync cable) and 622's on the speedlites and have them work as a team?

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17792734
Ok...let me be more specific: I have the 622TX controller and 622 transceivers. Do you think I could use a 622 on the RL600 (with sync cable) and 622's on the speedlites and have them work as a team?

Yes. It's that simple.

I do this, but with the 560 system. I also use 622's, but only when I'm using HSS/ETTL. I mostly use the 560 system though because I generally like to choose my exposure manually.

You can totally do Rovelight + YN622, Speedlite + YN622, TX-622 controlling it all. This allows HSS on everything and would allow for ETTL too, but the Rovelight doesn't have ETTL of course.

Again, my example is that when I'm not using HSS, I just use Rovelight + RF603, TX-560 on camera controlling it, any my 560III's all working from the TX-560 as they don't need individual transceivers.

This is why I'd like to change my 568/565's to the 685's, so that I can do all that with just one TX-622 and the single YN622 on the Rovelight, no other transceivers, while having any number of 685's controlled with their built in wifi receivers (they have built in YN622s).

Very best,

MalVeauX wrote in post #17792746
Yes. It's that simple.

I do this, but with the 560 system. I also use 622's, but only when I'm using HSS/ETTL. I mostly use the 560 system though because I generally like to choose my exposure manually.

You can totally do Rovelight + YN622, Speedlite + YN622, TX-622 controlling it all. This allows HSS on everything and would allow for ETTL too, but the Rovelight doesn't have ETTL of course.

Again, my example is that when I'm not using HSS, I just use Rovelight + RF603, TX-560 on camera controlling it, any my 560III's all working from the TX-560 as they don't need individual transceivers.

This is why I'd like to change my 568/565's to the 685's, so that I can do all that with just one TX-622 and the single YN622 on the Rovelight, no other transceivers, while having any number of 685's controlled with their built in wifi receivers (they have built in YN622s).

Very best,

Woohoo! Thanks Martin!


*runs to check paypal account!

ptcanon3ti wrote in post #17792748
Woohoo! Thanks Martin!

*runs to check paypal account!

Go for it!

ducatiwv wrote in post #17145129
I have that also, I used the same setup flash havoc used with the canon and the Yn622

I found the problem I have a male to male sync cord, both ports are female on the Yn and my hotshoe adapter. I tried firing the trigger taking it off the YN622 and it wouldn't fire

Hosted photo: posted by ducatiwv in
./showthread.php?p=171​45129&i=i252219667
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

I'm having trouble understanding this set up. I have the 622c triggers. Are you mounting this way to maintain remote power control of the RL600? And why do you need the middle accessory?

Thanks!