Reverse ND filter

Looking for a good reverse ND filter to fit my Lee system. It does not appear that Lee make one. Suggestions greatly appreciated

Reverse? As in flipping it upside down doesn't work for your needs?

Ok, I see what you're after, something that is darker on the grad edge and gets lighter as it goes up. Cokin and hitech and some of the others all fit the lee system from what i understand

singh ray and hitech make one. I use the hitech one, and optically, no issues.

I'd love a reverse ND filter! Too bad it breaks physics...

Seriously though, try searching for a reverse GND and I think you'll find what you're looking for.

How about stacking existing Lee filters as shown here:

http://www.onlandscape​.co.uk …-reverse-nd-grad-filters/

The stacking trick works in a pinch, but it would be much nicer to have an individual filter on hand if you're using it a lot.

I'm going to offer an alternative to the reverse GND -LightRoom. LR's grad tool combined with the other tools is much more flexible than a lens filter and it doesn't permanently change your original exposure. Get a good initial exposure (ETTR), if conditions are right make a bracket or two just for good measure, and take it into LR.

Now put your grad line anywhere you want. Use two or three grad lines. Use the adjustment brush to fill any smaller areas. Adjust not only exposure but contrast, saturation, clarity and other parameters either up or down. None of this can be done in the field and, if you exposed to the right and did a bracket, your highlights should be good and you can always use PS to blend your bracket for better shadows if you need to.

No expensive filters, no image files permanently altered, and less stuff to carry into the field. And, if you can't do it in LR, you will have a much better idea of exactly what you DO need in the field.

rgs wrote in post #17113087
I'm going to offer an alternative to the reverse GND -LightRoom. LR's grad tool combined with the other tools is much more flexible than a lens filter and it doesn't permanently change your original exposure. Get a good initial exposure (ETTR), if conditions are right make a bracket or two just for good measure, and take it into LR.

Now put your grad line anywhere you want. Use two or three grad lines. Use the adjustment brush to fill any smaller areas. Adjust not only exposure but contrast, saturation, clarity and other parameters either up or down. None of this can be done in the field and, if you exposed to the right and did a bracket, your highlights should be good and you can always use PS to blend your bracket for better shadows if you need to.

No expensive filters, no image files permanently altered, and less stuff to carry into the field. And, if you can't do it in LR, you will have a much better idea of exactly what you DO need in the field.

bracketing is probably fine for short exposures, but for long exposures (which happens often during sunrise/set or for effect) you can potentially run into issues especially when light/conditions can change in very short time

like this pic for example:

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ocVg​oj

My post was about using LR tools. I only mentioned brackets as a fail safe when conditions allow. 4 stops is too much for LR which is why I said learning to use LR tools will help you know when you REALLY DO need a filter. In most cases I consider ND grads to be a holdover from film technique but in some they are still needed.

FWIW, I would want the shadows in your image a stop or 2 darker which would mean no grad for me. I do like yours as well.

ETTR allows us to hold detail in light areas and process for shadows. That's much easier to do than it was with film.

basketballfreak6 wrote in post #17113104
bracketing is probably fine for short exposures, but for long exposures (which happens often during sunrise/set or for effect) you can potentially run into issues especially when light/conditions can change in very short time

like this pic for example:
Manly Sunrise by basketballfreak6, on Flickr

that was 90 second exposure, the clouds darting through above was there for a very brief moment, timed it wrong and it's gone

on top of that i am not that great at editing, barely know how to use PS (i use lightroom 99% of the time) but then that's on me, YMMV, i try to get the best single file to work with for me straight up instead of having to worry about blending and all that stuff later, again YMMV

FWIW, i am using singh ray 4 stop reverse grad, very happy with the IQ except it can sometimes give purple casting, but pretty easy fix though

recently acquired a lee small stopper and 105mm cpl as well, can't wait to put them to use soon

did you really use a reverse GND for this shot? background looks like it was close to blowing out.

on a related not, I dont think lightroom will work in the reverse grad scenarios. My understanding of the tool is to use when the sun shines directly at you during sunset/sunrise, and that can be kinda harsh. Few minutes after the sun is gone, yeah, sure, the lightroom trick will work since there's enough dynamic range in a single file.

For example, I have a shot with exactly 4 stops difference between them, one exposed for the sky during sunset, and even if I exposed to the right, there'd probably be 3 stops difference. Reverse GND would be great for this scenario, but unfortunately, it doesnt fit this particular lens.

Charlie wrote in post #17113417
For example, I have a shot with exactly 4 stops difference between them, one exposed for the sky during sunset, and even if I exposed to the right, there'd probably be 3 stops difference. Reverse GND would be great for this scenario, but unfortunately, it doesnt fit this particular lens.

Well I had a little play in PS. It took about 2 minutes to blend the two to get the horizon of the darker one on the lighter one. Here's the result. The second is a little additional local work in LR. Remember I was working with your small jpegs. Working on full sized RAW would be easier and more effective. This illustrates what I was saying, those ND grads just aren't really needed very often.

rgs wrote in post #17113455
Well I had a little play in PS. It took about 2 minutes to blend the two to get the horizon of the darker one on the lighter one. Here's the result. The second is a little additional local work in LR. Remember I was working with your small jpegs. Working on full sized RAW would be easier and more effective. This illustrates what I was saying, those ND grads just aren't really needed very often.

Oh, I could have saved you the trouble

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/mdAd​S8

rgs wrote in post #17113161
FWIW, I would want the shadows in your image a stop or 2 darker which would mean no grad for me. I do like yours as well.

ETTR allows us to hold detail in light areas and process for shadows. That's much easier to do than it was with film.

oh yea definitely, it all open to individual's interpretation of their shots

and i do ettr as well :P

Charlie wrote in post #17113417
did you really use a reverse GND for this shot? background looks like it was close to blowing out.

hey Charlie, i did, 4 stop as well lol

that bright strip just above the clouds on horizon (which i think is where you were referring to) was in fact very very bright when i took that shot

it's amazing how quickly 4 stop can start being not enough once the sun is above the horizon

also in the end there isn't really right or wrong answer, different situation and shooting styles calls for different tools i guess

Charlie wrote in post #17112080
singh ray and hitech make one. I use the hitech one, and optically, no issues.

I too have a set of three Hitech RGND's (1, 2 and 3 stop), and also no optical problems.

Maxdave