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Thread started 10 Sep 2014 (Wednesday) 16:16
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Canon 28mm L - am I the only one missing it?

 
ziemowit
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Sep 11, 2014 04:40 |  #16

I can try, why not, but things on the street happen so fast Im not sure how thats going to work. That Zeiss does look small(ihs) though, which is tempting.


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MalVeauX
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Sep 11, 2014 04:46 |  #17

ziemowit wrote in post #17147532 (external link)
I can try, why not, but things on the street happen so fast Im not sure how thats going to work. That Zeiss does look small(ihs) though, which is tempting.

Nothing to lose. Use a cheaper wide lens to test it out, or use something you already have that is pretty wide. Wider is better if you want to do it, because you just get so much more depth of field for the aperture the wider you're go. It's really cool for street because you get context, you get tons of light from the wide aperture, while still getting deep depth of field, with a touch of OOF area deep in the background. You can capture things faster because you expose the moment you press the shutter, instead of waiting for a focus lock. In that same time, you can in continuous drive shooting, capture more than one image, so you have more to choose from later.

Not trying to sell it like it's better. But just giving you an alternative that is actually very fast. These are the methods we used before autofocus was around. It's an old method. But wider lenses are a lot more available and affordable these days, so it's easier.

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ziemowit
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Sep 11, 2014 04:54 |  #18

I used to shoot film in full manual, but that was studio work. Now on the street I've been fully dependand on servo, but hell, why not try it. the widest primes I got are 28 1.8 and 35L, I will try but im not very optimistic, given the rate of oof images i get even with servo and my 5d3 with the 35l which is fast to focus. things just happen quickly or I shoot people from really close, not sure manual will work. thanks for the link to the zeiss though.


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MalVeauX
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Sep 11, 2014 04:58 |  #19

Heya,

On your 5D3 (or any camera really, you don't need the AF system for this), set it to continuous drive, use the 28 F1.8, stop down to F2.8. Turn off AF. Pre-focus to a desired minimum distance. Depth of field does the rest. Then simply practice distance judgement and you know how close something can be and when something is beyond that, it's in focus. Try it out on something. You may find you get good at it fast.

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Canon 28mm L - am I the only one missing it?
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