Advice needed on UWA

Currently I shoot at a Cars and Coffee event. The event is very early in the morning right around sunrise. I try to get in close to keep to the crowds out of my shot and use the EF-S 10-22mm at 10mm to get the entire car in the frame. The corner sharpness of this lens is pretty hit or miss, especially and wider apertures (which I tend to use because of the lighting conditions, shooting handheld)

Any advice on something close to 10mm that has sharper corners? I am using a 70D. I am open to a UWA prime, but don't want to stay as close to 10mm as possible.

You dont say what your budget is but assuming its around the 10-22 price, there are a few options for UWA.
Firstly theres the new EF-S 10-18mm which is noticeably better in the corners. However the aperture is very slow (f/4.5 at 10mm) so it might not be your best choice.

Have a look at the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 which I think will suit you better. It suffers from chromatic aberration but it's much easier to fix CA in post rather than softness.

Thanks I am pretty open on budget. The only reason I got the 10–22 is because of the focal length at the short end.

Yes it is hard to find 10mm lenses. The closes UWA (not fisheye) prime lens available is 14mm.

So if 14mm is too much, you have to choose from the following list below. The Tokina is still your best bet... 11mm and f/2.8 for your low light situations

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …225+4261208222+​4037822646

No. For low light, static work your best bet is an IS lens.
EF 16-35IS
EF-M 11-22IS
EF-S 10-18IS

I honestly think I can get a sharper photo using f/2.8 without IS compared to using f/5.0 with IS. Plus it also helps when things are not static... I'd still take the Tokina over the IS EF lenses for what the OP is doing.

I have the EF-S 10-18 IS and I love it for what I use it for (landscapes and property .. ie. 90% of the time on a tripod with longer exposures, if necessary, not being a problem).

f/4.5 minus two stops of IS is f/2.2 eq. Three stops puts you at f/1.6 eq. for the purpose of light gathering. And you'll get thicker DoF.

Yes, agreed. But that's assuming you can afford a longer shutter speed. A "Cars and Coffee" event is totally different to a static landscape and might possibly (at least, that's the way I picture it in my mind!) contain moving subjects. Remember the 10-18 is f/4.5 while the 10-22 is f/3.5 so it's a downgrade in that aspect.

If the OP got along fine with the 10-22's speed and doesn't mind even slower shutter speeds then he might consider the 10-18 with IS. Otherwise the Tokina is the best upgrade. Both these lenses are sharper in the corners than the 10-22, so it's just a matter of deciding what is best for the situation

The Canon EF-S 10-22mm is one of the sharpest UWA lenses corner to corner. You are going to have a hard time finding anything much sharper.

Do you have a "protection" filter on the 10-22mm? If so, you might try without it.

One lens that might rival the 10-22mm for sharpness is the Tokina 11-16/2.8. It's not got as much range of focal lengths, and for best sharpness you might want to stop it down a bit. And it's much more prone to flare issues than the Canon lens. But it may be worth a try. I haven't used it personally, so can't say how well corrected it is for the usual wide angle distortion effects.

I wouldn't bother with IS for this type of subject. Use a tripod, or at least a monopod. Even in low light, you might be able to stop down even more, for improved sharpness. You'll want to avoid too small an aperture though, where diffraction might occur (limit a 20MP full frame camera to about f8 at the smallest, though f11 might be usable... you'll have to be the judge).

But "working in close" with an UWA lens, you'll never be able to avoid some distortion effects. Those are inherent to this type lens. The 10-22mm is one of the best corrected, but even it will give some perspective exaggeration and anamorphic distortion effect at the edges. The only way you'll be able to minimize those effects much more than the correction of the 10-22mm provides is to back off and use a less extreme focal length.

There is a 10mm/2.8 prime made by Rokinon. http://www.rokinon.com​/product.php?id=7143

The lens is manual-focus, but focusing is not very critical with a 10mm lens. It is not cheap - $599 according to their website. That's not much cheaper than the Canon 10-22.

With a 70D, and given good noise-reduction software, a fast aperture may not be that important. I therefore suggest the new Canon 10-18IS as an inexpensive alternative.

nyc2sd wrote in post #17169143
Currently I shoot at a Cars and Coffee event. The event is very early in the morning right around sunrise. I try to get in close to keep to the crowds out of my shot and use the EF-S 10-22mm at 10mm to get the entire car in the frame. The corner sharpness of this lens is pretty hit or miss, especially and wider apertures (which I tend to use because of the lighting conditions, shooting handheld)

Any advice on something close to 10mm that has sharper corners? I am using a 70D. I am open to a UWA prime, but don't want to stay as close to 10mm as possible.

UWAs have large DoF, but trying to shoot a large object (car) from a close distance, with a large aperture should produce noticeable DoF effect, with some parts of the object less sharp than others. With UWAs, you normally want to maximize DoF by increasing the f-number to something like f8-f11 (at larger f-numbers the softness caused by diffraction becomes very noticeable).

As others said, your 10-22 is very capable lens. The best way to use it for you purposes is to use a tripod (or at least a monopod) at f8-f11 apertures, with the usual rule of focusing 1/3 of the way into your object.

nyc2sd wrote in post #17169143
Currently I shoot at a Cars and Coffee event. The event is very early in the morning right around sunrise. I try to get in close to keep to the crowds out of my shot and use the EF-S 10-22mm at 10mm to get the entire car in the frame. The corner sharpness of this lens is pretty hit or miss, especially and wider apertures (which I tend to use because of the lighting conditions, shooting handheld)

Any advice on something close to 10mm that has sharper corners? I am using a 70D. I am open to a UWA prime, but don't want to stay as close to 10mm as possible.

Heya,

Look into the new 12mm F2.8 fisheye from Rokinon/Samyang. It's fisheye, but it's quite good. It was meant for full frame, but it will still be quite wide on aps-c.

The 10-22 is pretty sharp. Performs better than the 17-40 with corner sharpness. If you think your 10-22 is hit or miss, it may just need some MFA which your 70D can do. Test it at 10mm and tweak it. You should be able to get crazy sharp images from that 10mm.

I find my 11-16mm F2.8 sharp enough. So I can only imagine the 10-22 to be sharper. Unless you're pixel peeping this?

Very best,

nyc2sd wrote in post #17169143
Currently I shoot at a Cars and Coffee event. The event is very early in the morning right around sunrise. I try to get in close to keep to the crowds out of my shot and use the EF-S 10-22mm at 10mm to get the entire car in the frame. The corner sharpness of this lens is pretty hit or miss, especially and wider apertures (which I tend to use because of the lighting conditions, shooting handheld)

Any advice on something close to 10mm that has sharper corners? I am using a 70D. I am open to a UWA prime, but don't want to stay as close to 10mm as possible.

If you are not on a budget then I would get TSE 17mm works real good on cars.....
Farmer

pulsar123 wrote in post #17171402
UWAs have large DoF, but trying to shoot a large object (car) from a close distance, with a large aperture should produce noticeable DoF effect, with some parts of the object less sharp than others. With UWAs, you normally want to maximize DoF by increasing the f-number to something like f8-f11 (at larger f-numbers the softness caused by diffraction becomes very noticeable).

Er, nope.

According to DoFMaster - 10mm, f4, hyperfocal distance is 1.33m. If you set your focus at 1.33m (that's about 4 foot) then everything from 0.66m (about 2 foot) to infinity will be in focus. For those who don't trust calculations...

hollis_f wrote in post #17172743
Er, nope.

According to DoFMaster - 10mm, f4, hyperfocal distance is 1.33m. If you set your focus at 1.33m (that's about 4 foot) then everything from 0.66m (about 2 foot) to infinity will be in focus. For those who don't trust calculations...

Being within DoF doesn't mean the edges will look sharp - if you pixel-peep. When someone complains that the 10-22mm edges are soft, and if another lens will make it sharper, I suspect this is already pixel-peeping, and traditionally defined DoF will show as softness quite easily.

For pixel-peeping, one has to use much smaller circle of confusion when computing DoF - comparable to the pixel size. (CoC ~ 0.005mm, not the usual 0.019mm). For your example, 10mm f4, hyperfocal distance becomes much larger: 5m. Meaning if a part of the car is closer than that (and it sounds that way), that part will show up as softness when pixel peeping.