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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Nature & Landscapes Talk 
Thread started 21 Sep 2014 (Sunday) 16:57
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At what aperture are most of your landscape shots?

 
Olivier-blackandwhite
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Dec 09, 2014 11:48 |  #46

7.1 is so elegant on the top-panel LCD display of my camera, I use it very often :-)

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JonQCanon
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Dec 09, 2014 12:37 |  #47

I'm usually at f/11, unless I'm trying to get a sunstar.


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Andy ­ R
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Dec 09, 2014 14:06 |  #48

Any where from f/8-f/11 depending on available light.


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chaks
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Dec 17, 2014 11:18 |  #49

f/8 to f/11




  
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drdiesel1
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Dec 17, 2014 11:40 |  #50

Tom Reichner wrote in post #17173648 (external link)
Wow, Walt . . . according to that graph, you took 4 pictures last year at a focal length of 6 millimeters! I didn't know they even had lenses that wide.


No..... 4 times at 1/6 :twisted:


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Tareq
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Dec 22, 2014 21:58 |  #51

In the past when i was a dump, i keep using f16-f22, but when i learnt about diffraction, i changed to f/5.6-f/11, but i use f/8-f/11 range the most.


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la_ricecooker
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Dec 27, 2014 15:53 as a reply to  @ post 17173637 |  #52

That's a solid tool. I might have to look into that. Thanks for the post.


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stronics
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Jan 08, 2015 17:49 |  #53

I would have to say f8 also.
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BastardSheep
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Jan 28, 2015 18:07 |  #54

The best way to decide on what aperture to use is to test your lens. I did this by lining up a shot on a tripod, external shutter release, all settings on manual so only what I specifically want to change will change, then took numerous shots of the same vista at different apertures. I found on my two most common landscape lenses that f/5.6 to f/8 was the sharpest area, and they both started getting noticable dropoffs in sharpness from f/11 onwards.

Now that I know this I try to keep my aperture in the f/5.6 to f/8 range, trying to keep it below f/11. If I really need to push DoF I will push my aperture to f/16, but beyond that there's no net gain due to losses of sharpness from the small aperture. I only push my lenses beyond f/16 if I need it to get a longer exposure than my CPL/ND filters can get me.

Your milage may vary. All lenses are different. Yours may very well be able to be pushed further than mine.


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ARsiega
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Feb 04, 2015 00:33 |  #55

I've used f/8-f/22, but I seldomly use f/22. Most of my shots are at f/14-f/16.


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RKlukas
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Feb 06, 2015 11:11 |  #56

The question has more aspects than you might think. First we tend to look at images close up as we are photographers.
Holding a print or looking at an image, at 10" to study the detail is common.
The maximum resolution of the human eye at 10" is generally considered to be 8LP (line pairs) per MM. This means that at 10", with 20/20 vision, you could see 4 lines and 4 spaces.
So this is the resolution required for a tack sharp image the same size as your sensor. I know ridiculous...
What people miss in choosing an aperture is the factor of final print/projection size.
If you don't intend to print or project large, you can stop down much further, than if you intend to just look at on your monitor.

So as an example let's say you want to make a super sharp 8x10 print from your FF camera.
This is effectively an 8x enlargement. So we take the maximum eye resolution of 8LP and multiply by 8.
To make a really sharp 8x10 we need 64 lines per mm resolution.
All apertures have a maximum theoretical resolution limit.
At F22 this is 32LPMM. At F16 we reach the upper 40's in LPMM. At F11 we are into the 60LPMM country, but remember these are a theoretical, so we need actually better than that, so F8 becomes a better aperture for an 8x10 for fine detail etc.
But if we want to make a 16x20 or 20x24 we now need 128LPMM so you see what many of the contributors above have found while making images that more open is better, depending on final print/image use.
A wide open aperture tends to be an issue as well as the image projection of the image from the lens is a shallow bowl or sphere. Not unlike a cooking wok. When you use your lens wide open, the corners are never as sharp as the center of the image, due this shape, caused by curvature of field. As you close down, the sphere or wok shape of the projected image from the lens, flattens to bring the corners into the same plane as the center.
So, on balance the absolute, best balance of aperture to intended size of use, for most lenses, will be 1 to 2 stops down from wide open and due to one more issue, 2 stops down would be my choice.
That last issue is focus shift. This is an issue that affects all lenses. As you close the aperture, the red light rays move forward, more or less, from the plane of focus on the sensor, depending on the lens. Closing the aperture increases DOF, but also increases the Depth of Focus at the sensor.
So stopping down 2 stops will encompass the shift of the red light rays, and all will appear sharp.
Hope this wasn't too boring but it is an important aspect of lenses and their use.
Rod


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Azathoth
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Feb 11, 2015 06:30 |  #57

Something between f8 and f18. Depends of the dof and the speed i want to use.


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Azathoth
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Post edited over 4 years ago by Azathoth. (2 edits in all)
     
Feb 11, 2015 06:34 |  #58

Tareq wrote in post #17346916 (external link)
In the past when i was a dump, i keep using f16-f22, but when i learnt about diffraction, i changed to f/5.6-f/11, but i use f/8-f/11 range the most.

People like to refer the loss of detail because of refraction. But they also forget that a zoom lens may not be very sharp at f5.6.

People should take a look at this:
http://petapixel.com …-fear-of-shooting-at-f11/ (external link)


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AngelofDepth
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Feb 11, 2015 07:59 |  #59

I usually shoot at f11 with an ultra wide lens.


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nqjudo
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Feb 11, 2015 08:05 |  #60

With DOF being a function of focal length it really depends on what lens I'm using and how close the foreground elements are. There really aren't any recipes.


No photographer is as good as the simplest camera. - Edward Steichen.

  
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At what aperture are most of your landscape shots?
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