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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Critique Corner 
Thread started 30 Sep 2014 (Tuesday) 07:17
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Taking photos of fast moving Model cars

 
gemma1
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Sep 30, 2014 07:17 |  #1

Hi,
First post for me.

I've been trying to take photos of Scalextric cars running along a track and without doing any editing yet,
I'm hoping to get a very clear photo of the car on the usual blurred background.

The cars are moving, the lighting is a mixture of a "yellow" flood-light for the entire area and White phosphorous overhead for the cars.

Panning is a little difficult, the track is a little low to the ground, so I find I'm panning in an arc rather than straight along the line of the track because I'm pretty sure my body is not following the car correctly, I think I can fix that with practice.

Camera is a Cannon 600d. Lense is the standard 55-200mm.

Any advise or tips from here is much appreciated.

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What I would like is to get more detail out of the car like names on body-work..that type of thing. So as you can see experimenting with the lighting to see which application of lights gives the car the most realistic effect. Look forward to reading you comments.



  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Sep 30, 2014 08:37 |  #2

cool shots.

providing EXIF data (camera settings) would help us help you.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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K ­ Soze
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Sep 30, 2014 08:48 |  #3

I think you are doing well with these.


I try to make art by pushing buttons

  
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Martin ­ Dixon
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Sep 30, 2014 08:53 |  #4

Most shots of this type have shorter blurs, you don't need too much (try experimenting) - ie shorter exposure - that would get you better detail as the car wouldn't have moved so much.

I wonder if would help if you used slow speed models and a tripod?

You could take additional stills (especially with tripod) and combine them in post for the details.


flickr (external link) Editing OK (external link)

  
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PhotosGuy
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Sep 30, 2014 09:15 |  #5

Are you using AI Servo? Same shutter speed in all of them?
#3 looks pretty good.


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
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cameragal1
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Sep 30, 2014 10:55 |  #6

These are so cool - love them!

Diane




  
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gemma1
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Oct 01, 2014 06:25 as a reply to  @ cameragal1's post |  #7

Ok to give you a better look at what I'm doing, this is a photo of the area of the track that I'm photographing.

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Ferrari ISO 3200 f/32 1/30

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Gonzales Ferrari ISO 3200 f/22 1/60

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Lotus 49 ISO 1600 f/20 1/40

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Oct 01, 2014 07:03 as a reply to  @ gemma1's post |  #8

Every lens has a sweet spot for both its focal length, if it's a zoom, and its aperture, zoom or not. When shooting at small apertures something called diffraction comes into play. I think that is why your subject is not as sharp as you would like it. You probably want to maximize depth of field by using a smaller aperture, but at some point you reach the point of diminishing returns.

I would open up to f/8 and see what that does for you. If you are concerned with DOF, park a car on the track and take a shot at f/8, 11, and 16. I'm guessing you will be fine under 16. Probably around 11.

http://www.dofmaster.c​om/dofjs.html (external link) use that tool to get an idea of DOF


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Oct 01, 2014 20:53 as a reply to  @ Left Handed Brisket's post |  #9

Thanks for that, after looking back through some older shots the better
Photos have been captured using the settings you have explained.
I'll post more soon using your settings and see how they look. Thanks again.




  
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gemma1
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Oct 02, 2014 06:58 as a reply to  @ gemma1's post |  #10

Hey , thanks for the help, this photo is so close to what I'll need to be doing.

A little fine tuning, a bit of extra ambient light and taking photos in the day,
these will be OK. A little clarity is lost to photo-bucket but very happy if the rest turn out like this.

Fangio Maserati 250F

ISO 800 F8 1/125

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Oct 02, 2014 15:28 |  #11

Nice!


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Oct 02, 2014 15:34 |  #12

I loved seeing the growth in this thread.


I come here for your expert opinion. Please do not hesitate to critique or edit.
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gemma1
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Oct 03, 2014 20:46 as a reply to  @ travisvwright's post |  #13

Continuing on... 1st 2 photos the cars guide blade is not in the slot so the car is standing still, hence the wheelie look.


Back of the car in focus,..

ISO 200 208mm 0ev f/5.6 1/50

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cockpit in focus, back of the car now not in focus..

iso 200 208mm 0ev f/5.6 1/60

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car at speed .. more of the back of the car in focus

iso 400 131mm 0ev f/5.6 1/100

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front of the car in focus... same camera settings

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by adjusting the f/5.6 setting to f/ 11..ish would that place more of the camera in focus ..???
Also when you talk about the sweet spot of the lense , I guess by using the little guys in the back ground as markers while the car sweeps by, the perfect focal point is probably the little red fire extinguisher held by the little fire marshall. You can see it in the photos as a small rectangle.

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gemma1
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Oct 03, 2014 23:42 as a reply to  @ gemma1's post |  #14

Ok this ones the winner so far. Manual setting ISO 800 f/10 wound the dial until it was 1 mark over the middle of the setting.

The f/ 5.6 to 16 seems to work, the clarity of the above shot has been lost to photobucket, but it wil look good once the book people /printers get a hold of it.

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I'll continue to post here, any tips you have, for sure let me know what you want me to try.


PS: the above photo is completely unedited.



  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Oct 04, 2014 03:02 as a reply to  @ gemma1's post |  #15

Sweet spot in focal length refers to the zoom of your lens. A focal length of 70mm might not be as sharp as a focal length of 170mm. This point varies even with different copies of the same lens type. You'd have to test your lens to see where it is sharpest. This doesn't have to be a super scientific test, just make sure you are using a tripod and manual focus on an object with good contrast. Not sure if you would even have much wiggle room for focal length changes on this project.

The focus point (for instance the fire marshal) should be of less importance. I have however noticed that my 70-210 seems to do better with near objects, but have not noticed this with any of my other lenses. Findings with the 70-210 are just my observations and 100% non-scientific. Diffraction at small apertures and at 210 make for practically unusable images with this lens. However, at 135 and under f/8 it is fantastic. Stopped down further it provides great sharpness and bokeh.

Neither of the above should give very drastic differences in comparison to aperture changes.

by adjusting the f/5.6 setting to f/ 11..ish would that place more of the camera in focus ..

Yes exactly. Grab a measuring tape and play around with the link provided in my post above. It does a pretty good job explaining it but Google, depth of field and aperture, for more info.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Taking photos of fast moving Model cars
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