Buying studio lighting

Hi,

I have been photographing portraits with two constant lights for the last year but would like to upgrade to some proper studio lights. I think I can probably stretch to two light units at the moment but am struggling with which units and which wattage to purcahse. Could anybody who is more informed than me on the subject please help me out?

Thanks,

Matt

Based on the budget, I would pick one of these starter kits.

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …57+4291464224&s​rtclk=sort

I would suggest to get around 400WS Monolights and pick a brand which offers good selections of modifiers.

Spend more on modifiers than on your lights.

Matt: A number of points here:

• Well intentioned though they undoubtedly will be, many of the responses you'll get will be from US-based members. The available options are vastly different between Europe and USA, not least the voltage. Do read their suggestions MOST carefully - right to the very last word.
  
  
• As time progresses, you will find that your greatest investment isn't actually in the flash units themselves but in accumulated modifiers/dish reflectors/accessories​. It's a good idea right at the outset to ensure you lock into a solidly mainstream fitting and not go out on a limb with something which may later prove less than ideal. Beware getting locked into a situation where you can only get those little extras from the maker of the flash unit - when they have you over a barrel like that, they can charge more or less what they like (till they go bust).
  
• You are basically looking at a choice of either Bowens-fit or Elinchrom-fit modifiers over here. The English-designed Bowens (often referred to as 'S'-fit) is the most readily available (and most widely copied/cloned) world-wide. The Swiss-designed Elinchrom is the second most available over here although it does lag quite a long way behind in availability at this moment. Beware the French-designed Balcar (aka Paul C Buff, Alien Bee or Einstein) so beloved on 't other side of the pond. Not at all easy to get hold of in the UK and if you start importing from USA you WILL be hit with truly horrendous import/carriage charges. The Balcar is also an inferior system to either Bowens or Elinchrom by a country mile for other than relatively lightweight modifiers.
  
• Historically, a 500 Ws flash head has been the mainstay of the High St professional for at least 50 years. Why?
  
  • You can always turn the power down from 100% but you can't turn it up above that setting (:rolleyes. For indoor portraits, you'd probably rarely need full power but with a 500 Ws unit at least it's there on the odd occasion you do actually need it.
    
  • Using a flash at less than full power usually (not always) brings benefits in shorter recycling time. This may, on occasion, prove useful.
    
  • Some makes offer the full range of adjustment on their 500/600 Ws model but restrict adjustment range on the less expensive 250/300 Ws model in the same range.
    

• On/Off/Proportional modelling light.
  
• Modelling light bulb of easily obtained type - some are specialist fitting with consequent high cost.
  
• Power range from 1/1 to at least 1/32 (5 f/stops). Walk away from anything with a smaller range.
  
• Beeper - useful to check all units have recycled in a multi-light set-up. You can always turn it off if desired.
  
• Either Bowens 'S' or Elinchrom fitting. Forget anything else, too much trouble.
  
• Slave unit with on/off switch. Some have programmable slave to accomodate simultaneous use with camera-top (eg Canon 600EX-RT) speedlights'.
  

Can I recommend Lencarta (in the UK), great customer service, great value products, Bowens S fit, which opens up your choices of modifiers.

Also, I'll say it's like buying a camera, newbies often put all their money into top of the range lights, and complain about the cost of softboxes and grids etc. (Like newbies who spend all their money on a camera and scrimp on lenses).

There are some great sources of inexpensive modifiers through Ebay or Amazon too.

Start with a Lencarta Smartflash2 2 head kit.

I got an Elinchrom D-Lite-it 2 kit a couple years ago, and I've been very happy with it. That kit has since been supplanted by the D-Lite RX 2 kit. Though it's the lowest wattage entry-level kit, I have not been in any situations where I wanted more power. There are a good number of first-party and third-party modifiers available, too.

Opinion: Unless you're shooting with huge modifiers, need to place your lights very far away from your subjects, or are trying to overpower hot midday sun: You don't need a ton of power for your first studio heads. I was on a shoot yesterday, working in a small space, and had to set my main light to the lowest power setting it would go - and I still had to close down the aperture a bit more than I wanted. Having a wide power range (at least 5 stops) is a necessity.

I haven't used Lencarta or Bowens.

nathancarter wrote in post #17197345
I got an Elinchrom D-Lite-it 2 kit a couple years ago, and I've been very happy with it. That kit has since been supplanted by the D-Lite RX 2 kit. Though it's the lowest wattage entry-level kit, I have not been in any situations where I wanted more power. There are a good number of first-party and third-party modifiers available, too.

Actually the D-lite RX One is their lowest end kit with 100w heads and as you say power range is probably more important than power capacity.

nathancarter wrote in post #17197345
I haven't used Lencarta or Bowens.

Both have excellent equipment, it's slightly easier to find modifiers for Bowens than Elinchrom, they feel much better put together than most alternatives but they're a bit behind the times when it comes to things like radio control.

Lencarta is a little less structured as they re-brand equipment they've imported but they're cheaper than either Bowens or Elinchrom and have some newer technologies the others haven't started using yet (or just started) like their Super fast heads.

Any of those 3 brands are a good choice.

simonbarker wrote in post #17197554
Actually the D-lite RX One is their lowest end kit with 100w heads and as you say power range is probably more important than power capacity.

Thanks for the clarification; I don't think the One was out when I last looked.

Whortleberry wrote in post #17196972
Matt: A number of points here:

• Well intentioned though they undoubtedly will be, many of the responses you'll get will be from US-based members. The available options are vastly different between Europe and USA, not least the voltage. Do read their suggestions MOST carefully - right to the very last word.
  
  
• As time progresses, you will find that your greatest investment isn't actually in the flash units themselves but in accumulated modifiers/dish reflectors/accessories​. It's a good idea right at the outset to ensure you lock into a solidly mainstream fitting and not go out on a limb with something which may later prove less than ideal. Beware getting locked into a situation where you can only get those little extras from the maker of the flash unit - when they have you over a barrel like that, they can charge more or less what they like (till they go bust).
  
• You are basically looking at a choice of either Bowens-fit or Elinchrom-fit modifiers over here. The English-designed Bowens (often referred to as 'S'-fit) is the most readily available (and most widely copied/cloned) world-wide. The Swiss-designed Elinchrom is the second most available over here although it does lag quite a long way behind in availability at this moment. Beware the French-designed Balcar (aka Paul C Buff, Alien Bee or Einstein) so beloved on 't other side of the pond. Not at all easy to get hold of in the UK and if you start importing from USA you WILL be hit with truly horrendous import/carriage charges. The Balcar is also an inferior system to either Bowens or Elinchrom by a country mile for other than relatively lightweight modifiers.
  
• Historically, a 500 Ws flash head has been the mainstay of the High St professional for at least 50 years. Why?
  
  • You can always turn the power down from 100% but you can't turn it up above that setting (:rolleyes. For indoor portraits, you'd probably rarely need full power but with a 500 Ws unit at least it's there on the odd occasion you do actually need it.
    
  • Using a flash at less than full power usually (not always) brings benefits in shorter recycling time. This may, on occasion, prove useful.
    
  • Some makes offer the full range of adjustment on their 500/600 Ws model but restrict adjustment range on the less expensive 250/300 Ws model in the same range.
    

Good things to look for in a studio flash unit:

• On/Off/Proportional modelling light.
  
• Modelling light bulb of easily obtained type - some are specialist fitting with consequent high cost.
  
• Power range from 1/1 to at least 1/32 (5 f/stops). Walk away from anything with a smaller range.
  
• Beeper - useful to check all units have recycled in a multi-light set-up. You can always turn it off if desired.
  
• Either Bowens 'S' or Elinchrom fitting. Forget anything else, too much trouble.
  
• Slave unit with on/off switch. Some have programmable slave to accomodate simultaneous use with camera-top (eg Canon 600EX-RT) speedlights'.
  

If you start your comparison process with either the Bowens Gemini 500 Pro or the Elinchrom ELC Pro HD 500, you can then decide what compromises are acceptable to you and your work. Either of these heads is probably somewhat over the top for current needs but each will give you a solid reference point from which to start.

Perfectly summed up for the UK buyer.
Other than Bowens did tell me its better to run your lights nearer full power for best bulb life. ( yeah sounds crazy ) or wack them at max power for 4 shots before you pack up,
I also cant stress how lovely/reliable/ convenient the RF triggers and reciever cards are. And what a god send the the remote control is. IMO ESSENTIAL accessories, the motoring equivalent of an auto gearbox - for making life easy.