On Camera Flash and Camera Settings

Pretty new to the flash world. I am using a Nissin Di622 II on a T3 for portraits and such. Here are some settings I've been using.
Av Mode
Auto ISO
Evaluative metering

Any recommended setting on the camera or flash? Also, how does back button focusing with the shutter button half-press being the AE lock effect the flash?

First off are you doing actual portraits in a studio type set up or walking around and shooting random shots at a family or other event? Do you shoot indoors all the time, outdoors or mixed?

You can work with AV mode. When I shoot outdoors I use AV or M mode, depending on my mood. Indoors AV is OK but you have to be careful with the shutter speeds. Depending on how dark it is, your camera will maintain the aperture you select by adjusting the shutter speed automatically. This will happen whether your flash is on the camera or not because the camera's light meter has nothing to do with the flash. It just meters ambient light. Flash uses is a different exposure system. Set the ISO to 100 when it is dark and see for yourself. Shutter speeds get very slow and people have gotten into trouble if they were not familiar with this. Most people who are into flash photography use M mode on their cameras when indoors. Outdoors too.

I never use auto ISO and I'm not sure I would shooting indoors with flash so I can't help you much there. The fact that you use it probably saves you from those slow shutter speeds I talked about. What does the ISO go up to when you are indoors?

Evaluative metering. You are probably talking about the camera? Makes no difference as your camera's light meter has nothing to do with the flash. This goes for centre weight, spot, etc. It just meters ambient or existing light. Your camera and flash both have specific jobs and neither cares about what the other is doing. Does that flash have ETTL? If so you are probably in ETTL. In ETTL the flash pre fires before the actual flash exposure. It is so fast you can't see it. The system evaluates the light reflected back and then determines the correct exposure for your "subject/s". Again the cameras light meter has noting to do with this.

You will notice I had "subject/s" was highlighted. That is because the flashes job is to exposure your subject correctly via the pre flash. When you have your camera mode evaluative and press the shutter half way or all the way the meter is evaluating the entire ambient scene, just like everyday shooting without a flash.

Your most consistent results with a flash as your primary light source will be in manual mode. In AV mode the camera attempts to use the flash only as fill and will slow the shutter down to capture more ambient. Outside in good light that's not an issue. Lock down your ISO. You need to control as many variables as possible. If a shot is under or overexposed how are you to know the fault if you have auto ISO, auto exposure on the camera, and auto flash power?

Av mode is generally not what you want for flash photos. In Av mode the flash only works for fill, it does not contribute to the overall exposure.

Also, Auto ISO locks to ISO 400 when using flash, so no point in using it.

I'd go Manual exposure when using ETTL flash because the flash will act as the auto exposure to illuminate your scene by adjusting the power of it's flash output.

Start with ISO 400, f5.6, 1/80 shutter speed in M mode, leave flash in Auto/ETTL and practice bouncing the light from the ceiling and walls at different angles to get the hang of it.

Blake - just ignore this paragraph for now. I always thought fill was not based on camera mode, only EV. However we are just probably making a reference to it as less flash being used because in AV the cameras meter will be maintained in the centre. Since the subject/s have more than likely a fair bit of ambient light illuminating them the flash will not work as hard.

Start with with the settings Taylor suggested. This part will probably throw you off because it did to me when I first got into this. The light meter will probably look like it is all the way to the left depending how dark it is. Ignore it. The flash will exposure you subjects't correctly. Trust the process.

I did not ISO locked at 400 when using the flash. Just in case I ever try it thanks for the info. I have never even used it without the flash.

digital paradise wrote in post #17210928
I did not ISO locked at 400 when using the flash. Just in case I ever try it thanks for the info. I have never even used it without the flash.

ISO doesn't lock to 400, but AUTO ISO does (you may have been saying that but just wanted to be clear). If you pick ISO 100 manually, it will stay there. But if you use AUTO ISO, it always automatically selects 400. Which generally is an OK number for indoors.

Sorry, that was what I meant. I have up to ISO 6400 with my flash. Thanks again.

digital paradise wrote in post #17210850
In ETTL the flash pre fires before the actual flash exposure. It is so fast you can't see it. The system evaluates the light reflected back and then determines the correct exposure for your "subject/s". Again the cameras light meter has noting to do with this.

Does the system evaluates that thru the lens? If so, Is there a way to evaluate the light only reflected by the centre of the frame (spot) and not the entire frame (average)?

When I am indoor I might also have the ISO to 1600 when bouncing the flash on the walls behind me (thru the use of a flash bracket). That will enable me to use a high f stop (shutter is always 1/125).

Vitoflo wrote in post #17215983
Does the system evaluates that thru the lens? If so, Is there a way to evaluate the light only reflected by the centre of the frame (spot) and not the entire frame (average)?

Yes it does evaluate that through the lens. Yes there is a way to spot meter flash exposure. If you press the M-Fn button and the flash will fire. This is not the actual exposure. It calculates the correct exposure within the spot-metering circle in your viewfinder. When you press the shutter the flash will fire again and output the correct power. Some people like to meter off skin tones and have their own formulas. Typically like shooting without a flash if you spot meter of Caucasian skin you add 1 to 1 ½ stops.

You can program a different button to do this. The M-Fn button is a little awkward to get at.

Other then that the flash system will only allow "Average" or "Evalutive" (in the flash function setting tab).

EDIT: does the FEC must be set to 0 in order to work with the FEL method?

Vitoflo wrote in post #17216017
Other then that the flash system will only allow "Average" or "Evalutive" (in the flash function setting tab).

EDIT: does the FEC must be set to 0 in order to work with the FEL method?

I use back button focus with the Shutter button being the AE lock. Will that still work with a flash and evaluative?

Yes. However remember none of these 3 flash metering modes have nothing to do with you cameras ambient light meter.

Average. This mode can only be accessed in the cameras flash menus, if your camera has it. Older models do not offer this mode.

• The flash must be mounted on the hot shoe and turned on
• Find the flash menus in your camera – External Speedlite control
• Locate E-TTL II meter. In this menu you can switch to Average.

The difference between the two modes.

Evaluative. This mode compares the ambient reading to the light reflected from the pre flash and isolates the closest object, which is typically your subject/s.

Average. This mode also uses the pre flash but it averages the whole scene rather than isolating your subject/s. Some people prefer Average for indoor shooting. Average is not recommended for outdoor as it does work as well. You can experiment and choose which one works best for you. I leave mine on evaluative because it is just one less thing to remember.

This is how your flash works. It piggy backs off the camera's exposure system but does not use the cameras light meter. The camera's light meter is only measuring ambient or available light. When you are in ETTL and press the shutter all the way there is a pre- flash before the actual flash. It is so fast you cannot see it. You can test this. Make sure you are on ETTL, look through the viewfinder and take a flash exposure. You will see a flash. That is the pre flash. You won't see the actual flash because the mirror will be flipped up during that event. Put the flash on manual and try it. You won't see a flash because the mirror is flipped up when the flash fires.

Before I move on lets forget about the flash. Not on your camera right now. You know how your camera's light meter works. If you take a shot of pure white snow it will underexpose and you have add 1 to 2 stops exposure. If you shoot pure black tar it will overexpose and you have to reduce 1 to 2 stops exposure. If you shoot with half the frame with snow and the other half tar your exposure will be pretty much bang on. Your camera light meter averages to 18% grey. This will be important later.

Your cameras flash system defaults to evaluative. This is a flash metering mode and has nothing to do with your camera's light meter or metering modes. This includes evaluative, spot, centre weighted, etc. There are multiple metering zones in your cameras exposure system. First you press the shutter half way to focus and your cameras light meter begins to measure ambient light. When you press the shutter all the way your fires the pre flash. Light from the pre flash is reflected back to the camera. It compares the ambient reading to the light reflected from the pre flash and "isolates" the closest object which is typically your subject/s.

"Isolates" is important to remember. I will use a bride and groom as an example. A bride in a white dress, a groom in a black tux and the bride and groom together all reflect light back differently during the pre flash. Remember the white snow and black tar example? Exact same thing. That is what the FEC or flash exposure compensation on your flash is for. You can fine tune your flash exposure for your subject/s.

Average. This mode also uses the pre flash but it averages the whole scene rather than isolating your subject/s. I will use a bride in a white dress as an example again. Since there are usually some darker areas around the bride the scene is more balanced.

Again some people like to use average for indoor shooting and evaluative is better for outdoor shooting. I leave mine on evaluative because it is just one less thing to remember.

BlakeC wrote in post #17216029
I use back button focus with the Shutter button being the AE lock. Will that still work with a flash and evaluative?

You still have to press the shutter so the pre flash will fire. I think you need to make sure the back focus button is not only focusing but also metering ambient light. ETTL needs to compare an ambient reading with the pre flash to work correctly.

I don't use the BFB and it has been while since I have been in those menus but I believe that option is there.