Concert photography

I have just purchased the Canon D10 to do some web/merchandise work for a client of mine. I was wondering if anyone had some advice on settings for taking concert photos in low light conditions? I used the shutter priority setting, but I'm still getting some blurred shots, and I'm not quit happy with the lighting. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!!

RS

Need the following info to form an informed opinion.
What shutter speed are you using. I found I needed 1/180 or 1/250 to catch 'Grand Funk Railroad' at the local 4th of July event. It basically broke down to my 50/1.4 at f2.0 and ISO 400 and some were still darker then I would have liked. Unless the spot light was on the band member then it was too light.

Also need to know which lens, what its aperture was set at and did you have a flash available (other then onboard)?

Catching bands (especially flashy rock/metal bands) is a pain because the flashy lights keep changing exposure frequently. Everything is best guess.

I work in a theatre where flash is out of the question and struggle with this often. Rock shows would definately be more difficult with the contant chnage in lighting.

You need a fast lens,. I use the Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8.

Shutter priority would be the way to go when the lighting changesd often,. I also found it usefull to use a manual exposure for some shows where the lighting remains constant,.. (like a fashion show or an intimate accoustic performance)

Sometime though it actually makes more sense to use Aperture priority,. set it to wide open,. and let the shutter go as fast as it can, allmost guaranteeing you enough light,. but risking the blur.

I just posted a bunch of concert shots I took this past Friday. I was VERY pleased with the results from the 10D. Believe it or not, my shutter speed was faster in most cases than if I had used my Elan II. I shot most at 90 and some at 60 rarely did I go over 90. I did not use flash, and a couple of times played with manual, but for the most part stayed on TV. BTW - lighting was pretty poor... so I'm pleased with the results although I know I still need to get it better.

Here are two examples of what I was able to get with my 10D.

http://images.fotopic.​net …=600&noresize=1​&nostamp=1

http://images.fotopic.​net …=600&noresize=1​&nostamp=1

My advice would be to shoot with the fastest lens you can afford lol.. you always seem to need more light!

The lighting is different for every show, hell it changes for every song. lol.

I shoot all manually and experiment.
generally with the largest aperture needed to maintain a minimum of 125 shutter speed.
anything slower wont stop the action.

You could however use the blurred shots creatively.
If done right they really enhance the action in a shot.

pete townshend doing a windmill always looks good blurred!

my biggest obstacle in concert photography is
a press pass,

I'm stuck sneaking my G2 in most of the time.

here are some shots I posted in another thread.

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=13687

Thanks for everyone's responses

This is a great source of information for new users like myself. I have forgotten more than I know about photography over the years, unfortunately, and I'll be looking to get back up to speed through resources such as this forum.

I was using a Tamron 28-200/f 3.8-5.6 lens. I set the shutterspeed at 125 and let the camera choose the aperature. I'll have to check the info on the photos (which are at home as I type) to see what the aperature was set at. I locked in my ISO at 800 just because it was so dark for this particular venue, but I prefer to shoot at 400.

Part of my other dilemma is that my external flash is outdated and will not work with my D10. I'll have to purchase something new...either the 420ex or 550ex (any recommendations???). All I had to use was my on-board flash, and even though I was in 4th row, the light still doesn't reach the artist enough.

Thanks again for the advice!!

How much of the blur is due to performer movement and how much is due to camera shake? (look closely at non-moving objects like mic stands and monitors...are they perfectly clear?)

Can you shoot some using a tripod? If not, how about a monopod so you can at least set down on a firm surface? Surprising how much blur you can remove with a simple monopod. Easily can take 1/15 (even 1/8 if subject isn't moving).

You can get great results from the 10D at 800 ISO. Get one of the available noise removal actions for PS to clean it up a bit and you can have some really stunning shots.

It would be easy to use a monopod/tripod if I didnt have crazy girls jumping across me to get to the stage! Haha!

Some of the blur doesn't bother me at all, but most of it is from the performer. I think by changing my shutterspeed and upgrading my flash, I'll be ok.

As far as noise removal actions, do you mean ones that are included in Photoshop or some other third party filter?

have you tried 1600 setting on camera yet. i did some shots of a friends band with this speed, converted them to black and white, upped the conrast and sharpened them. they looked great.
i used to do a lot of live music for magazines etc and i always used 3200 B and W film and 1000 asa colour.
i find the higher speed settings on the 10D emulate the lovely grain and grit of these higher speed films.

try it and see.

james

I was not speaking of photoshop's noise removal...too much loss of detail.

Two to try:
Some folks like NeatImage www.neatimage.com

There is a free unhampered demo (doesn't do batch and doesn't do photoshop plugin without paying) to try. But you've got to download the Canon 10D profile from their site to get best results, or create your own profile by downloading their test target and shooting it with your camera (basically, read the instructions carefully)

Another option that I'm pretty happy with that you can't really try before you buy is a Photoshop action that has gotten a lot of praise from this forum and others. It's from Fred Miranda and is $15. Read about it at
http://www.fredmiranda​.com/shopping/catalogu​e.php?cat=5 (click on the 10D ISOPro Full Descriptions link)

It has specific settings for ISO 100-400, 400-800, and 1600-3200

Also some nice sharpening actions at Fred's site that often yield better results than messing around with Unsharp mask on your own.

I've been shooting concerts for almost 15 years now. Started with an A2E and just got my 10D. Still experimenting with the 10D for optimum results, but I've found it to be a worthy successor to my older film body.

Since concert lighting is often times minimal and ever changing, I agree with the previous poster to get the fastest lens you can afford. I've been using a Canon 80-200mm f/2.8 for years and it's a fantastic lens. Since the 70-200 models are more current you may be able to pick up a good used 80-200, otherwise I've heard good things about, but not had any direct experience with, the Sigma 80-200 f/2.8.

With film I shot ISO 1600, which may be faster than what other people typically shoot shows with, but I can guarantee I was the only photographer with usable images when Neil Young decided to perform by candlelight. On the 10D I wouldn't drop the ISO below 800, but I'd be prepared to dial it up to 1600 if you're not getting shutter speeds at least equal to the focal length of the lens you're using. I haven't had much of an issue with noise, to be honest.

Since the environment changes so much with lighting and other stage effects, I most often shoot in auto program mode (I forget exactly what it's called, but it's the adjustment to the north of the green settings before you get to shutter and aperture priority).

As for a flash, you might be able to get away with using it for outdoor and/or daytime shoots as a fill, but for indoor concerts it's almost always a no-no. The EX series flashes will give you proper exposures if you meter off the right area (I always aim for the face).

Try to steady yourself against the stage if security and the surrounding envronment allow you to, that may help you steady your shots.

I don't have any of the 10D images on my web site yet, but if I could figure out how to post them in this message I would.

Hope that's helpful!

Seth

I shoot concerts for an agency in London with my 10D and D60 (although mostly use the 10D) but started with a D30. I have had full page photos in magazines even with the old D30 but the 10D is far better for this type of work because of the improved low light focusing.

If I'm shooting a small club with minimal stage lighting then flash is the way to go (if allowed). If no flash then it's pot luck as even at 1600 I've had to shoot wide open at 2.8 and a shutter speed of 1/45 or lower. 1600 is quite noisy but still ok for newspaper use.

Larger clubs with a better lighting rig I can get away with no flash using 800 with 1/60 - although if it's a lively act then I try to use flash.

Larger venues tend to have better lit gigs and I can use 400 at 1/90 or better. But some acts don't always play ball - The Residents at the Royal Festival Hall didn't use the stage lighting but used hand held lanterns - result was 1000 at 1/10 2.8 and very noisy but still used by two publications.

One other thing is that I tend to use manual mode for 90% of gigs. The rest of the time I lock the shutter off at 1/125 or so with Tv.

These are of course only ball park figures and each gig is different - and we usually only get the first three numbers so we have to work fast and have no time to experiment.

One word of warning - in London at least - a lot of venues don't usually allow SLR's in the audience and some don't even allow any digital cameras at all.

Flash is definitely not a problem with this performer. He uses 'fan' photography for various things and encourages people to take photos. If a venue doesn't allow photography, his tour manager usually gets them to bend their rules for his shows.

With that said, I would prefer to use my flash. I'm not a professional by any means, and certainly do not have the funds to spend on high end lenses and flashes. What would you recommend for a flash in the middle range? I usually shoot with a Tamron 28-200/3.8-5.6. I'm usually not far from the stage...either in the first couple of rows or directly on the stage to the side.

Thanks for all the advice!