Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

NickiRasgo wrote in post #12638451
Guys, can you check the link?

http://www.flickr.com …96962643/with/5​859677417/

Not sure, if it's soft wide-open.

Looks sharp to me...can see that CA on the OOF branch on the tree though...but this lens seems to do that.

I can't wait, my copy comes back from the Canon service center today...

Dunno who made her so mad. I don't think she was even mad, just caught her mid babbling and it makes her look mad.

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geogecko wrote in post #12638615
Looks sharp to me...can see that CA on the OOF branch on the tree though...but this lens seems to do that.

I can't wait, my copy comes back from the Canon service center today...

At wide-open right? Thanks for the reply. I didn't took much time to check the lens when I bought it last Monday here. The CA is really noticeable in highlights.

The Outlaw wrote in post #12636442
anyone????

Actually, Sigma 84/1.4EX has even more CA. EF 85/1.8 problem is strong PF in highlights. Automatic lens correction can't help much in this situation, but it is not so hard to remove in post processing.

LeeRatters wrote in post #12630624
i need to start attaching this to my 5D2 more often.......

so i did......

http://www.flickr.com …/in/photostream​/lightbox/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ratters445/5856​661377/

Very sharp lens. Makes for crisp lightning shots.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/53335309@N02/5​858777697/

AxPhoto wrote in post #12639138
Very sharp lens. Makes for crisp lightning shots.


Static

Nice lightning shot. How'd you set up to get it?

Blurr Cube wrote in post #12642276
NIce lightning shot. How'd you set up to get it?

Pretty simple set up really. Find a light or object at infinity and focus on the object/light in MF and leave the focus there. Point your camera towards the area of interest and then set your camera to M mode with BULB as the shutter speed. I change the aperture depending on how far away the lightning is from you. If it's close you'll have to stop it down between f/8 and f/11 but if it's further away you'll have to open it up to around f/3.5-f/5. Not sure what this one was taken at but it was definitely further away. Then grab a shutter release and hold down the exposure until you see a bolt in your frame and then release. That's about it.

AxPhoto wrote in post #12642571
Pretty simple set up really. Find a light or object at infinity and focus on the object/light in MF and leave the focus there. Point your camera towards the area of interest and then set your camera to M mode with BULB as the shutter speed. I change the aperture depending on how far away the lightning is from you. If it's close you'll have to stop it down between f/8 and f/11 but if it's further away you'll have to open it up to around f/3.5-f/5. Not sure what this one was taken at but it was definitely further away. Then grab a shutter release and hold down the exposure until you see a bolt in your frame and then release. That's about it.

Hey thanks for the detailed explanation!

AxPhoto wrote in post #12642571
Pretty simple set up really. Find a light or object at infinity and focus on the object/light in MF and leave the focus there. Point your camera towards the area of interest and then set your camera to M mode with BULB as the shutter speed. I change the aperture depending on how far away the lightning is from you. If it's close you'll have to stop it down between f/8 and f/11 but if it's further away you'll have to open it up to around f/3.5-f/5. Not sure what this one was taken at but it was definitely further away. Then grab a shutter release and hold down the exposure until you see a bolt in your frame and then release. That's about it.

Exif data


Camera Canon EOS REBEL T1i Exposure 31 Aperture f/4.0 Focal Length 85 mm ISO Speed 100

It's been a while since i last posted in here ,

Dankata , gonças , J.Taylor , discoduck and all the others : you're doing a great job

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IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mitch88/5863527​998/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mitch88/5856190​853/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mitch88/5846812​151/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mitch88/5809046​465/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mitch88/5830381​485/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mitch88/5794591​015/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mitch88/5812373​570/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mitch88/5821866​660/

Mitch.A wrote in post #12644402
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Shadowy metaverse (8) by Mitch.A (Busy), on Flickr

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Shadowy metaverse (7) [Explore] by Mitch.A (Busy), on Flickr

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Shadowy Metaverse (6) [Explored] by Mitch.A (Busy), on Flickr

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Shadowy metaverse (5) by Mitch.A (Busy), on Flickr

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When it rains (15) by Mitch.A (Busy), on Flickr

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When it rains (12) by Mitch.A (Busy), on Flickr

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When it rains (13) by Mitch.A (Busy), on Flickr

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When it rains (14) by Mitch.A (Busy), on Flickr

This whole set is fantastic - I love the feeling of shadow space created on the pavement.

NickiRasgo wrote in post #12638451
Guys, can you check the link?

http://www.flickr.com …96962643/with/5​859677417/

Not sure, if it's soft wide-open.

If you want to check for softness then:

a) Use a full size picture, not a resized one
b) Don't focus and re-compose, as there is a risk that you will change the distance to the focus point when doing the re-compose. I can't see if you re-composed or just used an off-center focusing point.

ecka wrote in post #12638691
Actually, Sigma 84/1.4EX has even more CA. EF 85/1.8 problem is strong PF in highlights. Automatic lens correction can't help much in this situation, but it is not so hard to remove in post processing.

Everyone keeps saying that the PF and CA aren't that hard to fix in PP. It is hit or miss with me. I don't find LR3 to have a powerful CA removal system and it always has to be done manually as opposed to with the simple slider in the lens profile. Can a particular lens be improved in this area if sent to canon? Mine just seems pretty bad.