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Thread started 31 Oct 2014 (Friday) 13:53
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How to read photographs with a view to learning

 
Overread
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Oct 31, 2014 13:53 |  #1

So having started up a new area of photography for myself I've found that I've come back to looking at the works of others for an idea of how they take their photos. However I've also found that approaching it somewhat ad-hock and without any structure leaves you going "ahh that's why" after the event rather than before, so I thought I'd strike up a discussion on this topic so that we can all learn to "read" photos better.

So what to look for - how to look for it - lets go! Note these are my thoughts and ideas, please add your views on them as well as your own things that you look for. Note for many things the use of editing can create a false lead. Personally unless the photographer states otherwise, assume no photoshop beyond simple corrections. No cropping - no significant exposure changes etc... Start with that approach as a base-line and work up from there. You might well find situations where its very clear that photoshop has been or has to be used to get the proper effect.

Tip - in your editing software of choice make yourself a little template with guide lines upon it so that you've a grid effect whilst having a transparent background. You can then impose this over the shots you're looking at. This can help in understanding some of the points raised below since the grid will help you line things up (esp in relation to what the viewfinder shows). Some editing software has automatic grids you can use without needing to make your own.

a) Composition itself - yep you've got the composition of the shot to look at. It helps here if you already know some compositional theories (rule of 3rds - golden circle - leading lines - how brightness affects eye attraction etc...). Once you know some theories you can start to see how they come together and play out over the frame. You can look for things like where the photographer has allowed for empty space - or where they've filled in the space.
Try as best as you can to get a grasp on the theories that are underlaying what you see. By doing that you start to understand what elements the photographer is looking for; what compositional components have come into play and panned out. It won't be the same every time, but it can start to give you some ground work for how they approach composing their photo.

b) Focus point selection - one that isn't evident at first as something you can take from a shot, but you can. You don't have to have the full meta data with the active AF point on show - but you can start to see what part of the frame is closest to the camera and in-focus - because that point will be what AF locks onto. From there you can start to judge how they've composed the shot (with point a) as well as how they've selected their AF point. It's a bit rough, but you can get a greater feel for how they've gone about taking the shot itself.
Note in some subject areas, like macro or landscape, AF might not come into the picture - although again you can still see where the focus is laying and that gives you a good hint as to how they are still composing and focusing, even if they are not using an AF point to work with.

c) Exposure itself - if the shot is online you can copy it and open it up in editing software and have a look at the histogram display. This along with what you see can give you some clues as to how they've exposed the shot. If they've left meta data up or stated out-right what settings they've used this is of great help. Again this is about looking at how the photographer has approached the shot - how they've chosen to work with the subject and light. You can see how close they've taken the whites to over-expose - how close the blacks are etc...
You can also look for subtle things - areas of blur suggesting a slower shutter speed - fuzzyness (of even out-right noise) potentially showing use of very high ISO; the nature of the depth of field (great or small). Note on the latter have a mind to the lens used if its stated - a tilt-shift will dramatically change how depth of field works in a shot.

d) Use of additional lighting or modifications. Have a look at highlight reflections (esp in eyes). Often you can come to see if the photographer has used a certain kind of light modification. Look at shadows too, sometimes (rare in skilled photographers) you can see alternate shadows suggesting more than one light source. Of course some things, light brighter shadows, can be the result of editing rather than flash or reflector use. It's challenging and almost a skill in itself to try and read this kind of info; but do have a look.
Also break the shot down - even if they've not used flash you can assume its the case and then consider how many and in what position lights would have to be to create the proper or at least similar effect. Think about where and how you'd position lights - now you're teaching yourself some lighting and getting some potential ideas.

e) Subject priority. Sometimes you might have a field of interest that presents multiple key subjects that might not be closely aligned. As a result the question is what is the primary - what subject is the shot most working for and which is the lesser one. Study and coming to get an understanding of how (and why) others have prioritised one over the other can be a big help in giving you some starting point ideas.

So those are a few of my thoughts on the subject, I'm sure there are more things that are of use that you might use yourself. So come and lets get some more ideas down or expand upon those already raised.


Tools of the trade: Canon 400D, Canon 7D, Canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS L M2, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 OS, Canon MPE 65mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 150mm f2.8 macro, Tamron 24-70mm f2.4, Sigma 70mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6, Raynox DCR 250, loads of teleconverters and a flashy thingy too
My flickr (external link)

  
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chauncey
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Oct 31, 2014 18:12 |  #2

Put that image on your desktop...is it still tolerable in a week of two.


The things you do for yourself die with you, the things you do for others live forever.
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airfrogusmc
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Oct 31, 2014 18:15 |  #3

Rules? Heres what some of the greatest had to say about the subject of rules.
"There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs." - Ansel Adams

"Photography is not a sport. It has no rules. Everything must be dared and tried!" - Bill Brandt

"There are no rules and regulations for perfect composition. If there were we would be able to put all the information into a computer and would come out with a masterpiece. We know that's impossible. You have to compose by the seat of your pants." - Arnold Newman

"And in not learning the rules, I was free. I always say, you're either defined by the medium or you redefine the medium in terms of your needs." - Duane Michals

"...there are no external or abstract or preconceived rules of design that can apply to still photographs."-Garry Winogrand

"so called “composition” becomes a personal thing, to be developed along with technique, as a personal way of seeing." - Edward Weston

My favorite by Weston
"When subject matter is forced to fit into preconceived patterns, there can be no freshness of vision. Following rules of composition can only lead to a tedious repetition of pictorial cliches." - Edward Weston

"To compose a subject well means no more than to see and present it in the strongest manner possible." - Edward Weston




  
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Snydremark
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Oct 31, 2014 18:22 |  #4

Overread wrote in post #17244108 (external link)
...

c) Exposure itself - if the shot is online you can copy it and open it up in editing software and have a look at the histogram display. This along with what you see can give you some clues as to how they've exposed the shot. If they've left meta data up or stated out-right what settings they've used this is of great help...


...

Mostly good points; but this one could be extremely misleading. Just because the histogram of the final image looks good, that does not mean that the actual settings used generated that histogram. I have one of my favorite images printed and hung in the living room, but the original file was W-AAAAAY too dark and I had to do a fairly heroic PP job to recover it. But, I don't think that the final result shows just how badly underexposed the original was and someone might think that the aperture/SS/ISO combo used created an exposure that was, at least, "close" to correct.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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Overread
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Oct 31, 2014 18:31 |  #5

chauncey - remember this is talking about other peoples photos and reading them not just liking your own work. But yes that can be a good measure of what shots to look at more closely.

airfrogusmc - this isn't about rules nor breaking them. This is about understanding the structure of a photograph. If we assume that we like similar things (ergo similar kinds of photograph) then basic logic dictates that those photos will have common elements that we enjoy seeing when combined together into the final photo. As a photographer we might wish to emulate those shots that we enjoy; or we might choose to emulate anothers work to give us a starting point within a new subject area*.

If we want to do that then we have to understand the underlaying ideas that are making up the shot so that we can copy the process. You can call them methods, theories or rules (rules is a bad term that gets missused and thus confuses people and leads to pages of rules VS breaking rules arguments).


Snydremark - very true; the exposure can be often the most commonly tweaked aspect of a shot and can be very misleading. Indeed we have to assume some level of editing (if not told otherwise). However even if you copy the settings and work in similar light then even if you don't get the straight out of camera exposure it gives a working idea of what to and how to push the shot - hot it might look with the right editing (or adding the right light modifications when taking the shot etc...)


*consider how nearly every "how to shoot macro" gives you the same advice to get to commonly seen results - like use a small aperture for a big depth of field; even though there is no reason that you "must" use a small aperture.


Tools of the trade: Canon 400D, Canon 7D, Canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS L M2, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 OS, Canon MPE 65mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 150mm f2.8 macro, Tamron 24-70mm f2.4, Sigma 70mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6, Raynox DCR 250, loads of teleconverters and a flashy thingy too
My flickr (external link)

  
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OhLook
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Oct 31, 2014 18:41 |  #6

Overread wrote in post #17244108 (external link)
I thought I'd strike up a discussion on this topic so that we can all learn to "read" photos better.

So what to look for - how to look for it - lets go! . . . So come and lets get some more ideas down or expand upon those already raised.

Overread, I certainly look at photos in order to learn, but much of my approach is different. You gave pointers about lenses and AF and other things to do with equipment. Having interchangeable lenses and movable lights would make me more versatile, but right now I have a bridge camera and there's plenty more to learn before I outgrow it.

When I see an image I like, I stare at it and try to isolate what gives it its appeal. Mostly, the features I can identify fall within your category of composition. I look at proportions: how far across the total width is that vertical line? does the big sharp square occupy twice the area of the smaller fuzzy square, or one and a half times the area? Use of color is important, too. I often find that a limited palette is effective. This kind of evaluation is applied to my images as well as others'. Sometimes I don't know why I like my own shot until I've looked at it a few times on the computer. Evidently there was something about the scene that drew me to it in the field without my full awareness.

Images on POTN that make me stop and stare, the ones that get that "Wow!" reaction, tend to have been made by members who don't post gear lists.


PRONOUN ADVISORY: OhLook is a she. | Comments welcome
Progress toward a new forum being developed by POTN members:
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1531051

  
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airfrogusmc
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Oct 31, 2014 20:37 |  #7

Try this and become fluent free you from rules. THis is VERY BASIC but a start.
Here
http://char.txa.cornel​l.edu/language/introla​n.htm (external link)




  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Nov 01, 2014 00:07 |  #8

Overread wrote in post #17244108 (external link)
. . . I've come back to looking at the works of others for an idea of how they take their photos.

I thought I'd strike up a discussion on this topic so that we can all learn to "read" photos better.

So what to look for - how to look for it - lets go!

I'm sure there are more things that are of use that you might use yourself. So come and lets get some more ideas down or expand upon those already raised.

Ok, I'll add an idea as to how to "read" a photo, how to get an idea of how a photographer took the photo. And I think this is, perhaps, the most important thing to look for, and yet it was not discussed at all in your initial post.

Point of View.

Where was the photographer taking the photo from? Why do I think he/she decided to take it from that position? What would the image look like if it had been taken from a higher angle? A lower angle? A little more to the left? From way over to the right?

Was it the lighting that made the photographer decide to take it from where he/she did? If so, was there a direct light source (spectral light), or was the lighting diffused? Were they looking for front lighting? Side lighting? Backlight? To answer these questions, I look at the subject and see how the different parts of the subject are illuminated. What is the surface texture of the subject, and how does the lighting show (or hide) that texture? What difference would have been achieved if the photographer were to have taken the image from a slightly different position? Do I think the photographer got exactly what he/she wanted, as far as lighting is concerned? Or, do I suspect that they had to make a calculated compromise, because positioning themselves for the best lighting would have then caused the different elements in the frame to come out of alignment? (obviously I'm talking about strictly ambient light here, not flashes and stuff like that).

Was the Point of View chosen out of a desire to avoid distractions? What are the various objects in the background? In the foreground? If the POV changed, how would these things align with the subject? Would that light pole "grow out of" the subject's head if the photo were taken a few feet further to the left? Would that bright object with the reflective highlights be too dominating if the image were taken a bit further to the right?

Was the Point of View chosen out of the desire to show a particular background element? Would that supporting element in the background be partially blocked by the subject if the image had been taken a little further to the right? Did they want to show that background element at a specific size, relative to the primary subject? If so, they could have achieved that ratio by manipulating both the focal length and/or by manipulating the camera-to-subject distance. Why do I think they chose that particular camera-to-subject distance and focal length combination ?

Point of View can show us far more about a photo than the few things I have discussed here. But I am tired of typing and have decided to stop going on and on about all of the things we can learn from examining the POV, even though there is so much more to be said on this topic.

Perhaps the most important decision a photographer makes (once he/she sets out to photograph something) is where he/she will take the photo from. This plays the most primary role in determining composition. In fact, I dare say that Point of View is normally far more influential to the final image than are camera settings such as modes, AF points, aperture, shutter speed, etc. Often, those things don't matter very much. Point of view always matters.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Archibald
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Nov 01, 2014 01:13 |  #9

Some random thoughts from me -

How one sees a photograph is not constant in time. It will be different on second viewing, and different again after a couple of weeks. In almost all cases, interest wanes with time.

The way a person see a pic depends on their experiences. Therefore it will be different for each individual.

Following the "rules", however you think of them, is for beginners.

Some of the most famous photos are duds to me - like for instance The Steerage (external link) by Stieglitz. Does this mean I don't know how to read photographs?

I sense a gulf between how photographers and painters see composition. Still pondering this, and other questions.


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J ­ Michael
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Nov 01, 2014 07:23 |  #10

You would probably enjoy this book: Barrett, Criticizing Photographs (external link)




  
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airfrogusmc
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Nov 01, 2014 07:32 |  #11

Archibald wrote in post #17245023 (external link)
Some random thoughts from me -

How one sees a photograph is not constant in time. It will be different on second viewing, and different again after a couple of weeks. In almost all cases, interest wanes with time.

The way a person see a pic depends on their experiences. Therefore it will be different for each individual.

Following the "rules", however you think of them, is for beginners.

Some of the most famous photos are duds to me - like for instance The Steerage (external link) by Stieglitz. Does this mean I don't know how to read photographs?

I sense a gulf between how photographers and painters see composition. Still pondering this, and other questions.

Try this about 44 seconds in. Maybe you are just not looking for the right things?
http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=Dtav_nMdrxE (external link)




  
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airfrogusmc
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Nov 01, 2014 08:03 |  #12

A few other things that you might find interesting
http://erickimphotogra​phy.com …ition-lesson-1-triangles/ (external link)

http://erickimphotogra​phy.com …n-lesson-4-leading-lines/ (external link)

I'd say look all around in his site.




  
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airfrogusmc
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Nov 01, 2014 08:05 |  #13

Heres a great look inside one of the all time great photo books.
http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=mHtRZBDOgag (external link)




  
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Archibald
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Nov 01, 2014 09:57 |  #14

airfrogusmc wrote in post #17245224 (external link)
Try this about 44 seconds in. Maybe you are just not looking for the right things?
http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=Dtav_nMdrxE (external link)

Confusing. Picture is cut in half. Harsh lighting. No center of interest. Score: 4/10.


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I'm Ed. Migrating to cameraderie.org and Talk Photography where I'm Archibald.

I'm probably listening to Davide of MIMIC (external link)

  
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airfrogusmc
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Nov 01, 2014 12:55 |  #15

Archibald wrote in post #17245431 (external link)
Confusing. Picture is cut in half. Harsh lighting. No center of interest. Score: 4/10.

:lol::lol:

Reminds me of this
http://theonlinephotog​rapher.blogspot.com …graphers-on-internet.html (external link)




  
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