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Thread started 04 Nov 2014 (Tuesday) 13:46
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Looking for a CPL

 
davidfarina
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Nov 04, 2014 13:46 |  #1

Soo ive decided on getting a Singh-Ray 82mm Mor-Slo 10-Stop ND Filter for my 82mm diameter lenses (16-35Lii and 24mm TSEii) since ive heard the singh ray is top notch. Now i dont want to have a complex filter system because its too heavy and bulky, so i prefer the screw on filters. So ive read that not every filter type is best from the same brand, so what CPLs do you recommend?

Since im going to buy from B&H because there is no availability to buy locally, and shipping from USA to switzerland increases the costs, i want to buy them at the same time..


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shocolite
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Nov 04, 2014 15:55 |  #2

I invested in a B+W MRC Nano Kaeseman Polariser XSPD. Too many reviews of Hoya's stating that they fell apart. Given their cost, I wanted something that was going to last.

Just be aware the CPL's can give bad results on ultra wide angle lenses due to banding.


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ben_r_
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Nov 04, 2014 16:22 |  #3

Yep, B+W MRC Kaeseman is the only way to go.


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gnome ­ chompski
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Nov 04, 2014 17:56 |  #4

Marumi is also good


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sapearl
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Nov 04, 2014 18:10 |  #5

shocolite wrote in post #17252309 (external link)
I invested in a B+W MRC Nano Kaeseman Polariser XSPD. Too many reviews of Hoya's stating that they fell apart. Given their cost, I wanted something that was going to last.

Just be aware the CPL's can give bad results on ultra wide angle lenses due to banding.

True enough about the banding. I use my older CPL (not a B+W) on a 17-40 and sometimes I just have to back off on the polarization to reduce the banding. Still, it's usually not an issue, and that characteristic would occur with any CPL.


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Hogloff
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Nov 04, 2014 19:25 |  #6
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ben_r_ wrote in post #17252353 (external link)
Yep, B+W MRC Kaeseman is the only way to go.

Tests show the Maurami is indistinguishable from the B+W yet are much cheaper. I have one and am very pleased with it.




  
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Keyan
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Nov 04, 2014 20:34 |  #7

No issue with my Hoya EVO CPL. Seems to be solid construction. Shrug.


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davidfarina
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Nov 05, 2014 02:28 |  #8

B&W seems the way to go. Im aware of that banding issue on UWAs but thanks for your advises!

Buthas anybody experiences withTilt Shift lenses and a polarizer? I would guess if im stitching images done with shift will have the same banding issue?


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hollis_f
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Nov 05, 2014 05:31 |  #9

davidfarina wrote in post #17253186 (external link)
I would guess if im stitching images done with shift will have the same banding issue?

I've not used a TS, but the answer will be - yes. The difference in polarisation is inherent in the sky. You can look through a CPL and see the effect by panning around.


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MalVeauX
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Nov 05, 2014 20:00 |  #10

Heya,

Marumi and B+W are equals frankly.

Marumi Super DHG or even just the DHG CPL will do what you need and has been tested to be best and near-best in many categories. Google search it and you'll see the different reviews.

It may end up being significantly cheaper than the B+W, yet performs the same.

That said, I wouldn't suggest using a CPL with a TS lens. You'll have issues with the sky big time.

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Hogloff
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Nov 05, 2014 21:03 |  #11
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MalVeauX wrote in post #17254769 (external link)
Heya,

Marumi and B+W are equals frankly.

Marumi Super DHG or even just the DHG CPL will do what you need and has been tested to be best and near-best in many categories. Google search it and you'll see the different reviews.

It may end up being significantly cheaper than the B+W, yet performs the same.

That said, I wouldn't suggest using a CPL with a TS lens. You'll have issues with the sky big time.

Very best,

What issues are you talking about. I've used polarizers on TSE lens without anymore issues than other lens. Extreme shifts might vignette more but that has nothing to do with the sky.




  
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Scrumhalf
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Nov 05, 2014 21:29 |  #12

Another vote for the Marumi Super DHG. I have an 82mm version on my 24-70 II and it is great!


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MalVeauX
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Nov 05, 2014 21:46 |  #13

Hogloff wrote in post #17254920 (external link)
What issues are you talking about. I've used polarizers on TSE lens without anymore issues than other lens. Extreme shifts might vignette more but that has nothing to do with the sky.

Even though you do nothing but troll these forums, I'll bite this one time.

Show us images you actually photographed for once, to back up your constant trollish claims and then maybe some of us will elaborate our opinions to you.

CPL on wide angle and especially in tiltshift wide angle stitches (like pans) has lots of weirdness going on in the sky.

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Hogloff
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Nov 06, 2014 06:52 |  #14
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MalVeauX wrote in post #17254980 (external link)
Even though you do nothing but troll these forums, I'll bite this one time.

Show us images you actually photographed for once, to back up your constant trollish claims and then maybe some of us will elaborate our opinions to you.

CPL on wide angle and especially in tiltshift wide angle stitches (like pans) has lots of weirdness going on in the sky.

Very best,

Ummm...you can stop your personal attacks anytime now. It's a very valid question.

I took a course with Darwin Wiggett who uses the 24 TSE all the time with a polarizer and he gets great results. I use a Zeiss 21 with a polarizer a lot with great results. It's total bogus advice to stay away from polarizers with wide lenses.




  
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hollis_f
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Nov 06, 2014 07:56 |  #15

Hogloff wrote in post #17255411 (external link)
It's total bogus advice to stay away from polarizers with wide lenses.

Yes, I'd have to agree that it's totally non-non-bogus advice.

Yes, CPLs can easily cause non-uniform skies because of the way that the polarization varies with the angle of the sun and the direction of shooting. But that's no reason to never use an UWA with a CPL. All one needs to know is just how the effect varies and how that determines which direction you're best of shooting in.

Here's a short post that covers some of the topic...LINK


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