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Thread started 12 Nov 2014 (Wednesday) 14:59
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7D Mark II - Focus Discussions

 
huntersdad
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Feb 11, 2015 08:28 |  #1711

Brittany,

Here's a quick lesson in microadjustment:

1. Mount lens and camera on a stable tripod at a reasonable shooting distance from your subject (Canon suggests 50x FL). Camera should be in One Shot mode, center point ONLY and, for ease, turn on the AF Beep confirmation.

2. Activate LiveView and focus on a high contrast, well lit subject.

3. Once focus is achieved, turn AF off on the lens. DO NOT MOVE THE AF RING OR TRIPOD - IF YOU DO START OVER.

4. Go into your AF Adjustment menu under the AF menu on the 7D2 (last page I believe).

5. Once inside, you'll have a bar with 20 positive and 20 negative markings. You will move down the (-) side until you do not get an instant beep and then repeat for the (+). You now have a range of numbers where the camera shows that LV and VF AF matches. Divide the number in half and either add to the negative or subtract from the positive. This is you adjustment for that lens at that FL. If you are using a prime, you are done - go test and see if you are happy. If you are using a zoom, you must now start over and do the wide or telephoto end (the 7d2 allows for wide and tele adjustments and then adjusts the middle ranges based on the adjustment range). Remember to recalculate the 50X distance.

6. Complete this process for each lens and each lens/TC combo you use on the camera. Some lens may require no adjustment, some a lot, some on the tele end, some on the wide end.


It sounds complicated, but once you do it a time or 2, it's pretty easy. For best results, do it outside with sunlight on your target.


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britt777
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Feb 11, 2015 08:36 |  #1712

just took these shots. No doubt the shot without the tc is sharper. I also took on shot at f4 and another at f8. f8 also much sharper.
So I am seeing that everything appears very soft when shooting wide open...hmmm. Soft does not work for me. I guess the next test is another lens.


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Feb 11, 2015 08:37 |  #1713

britt777 wrote in post #17426812 (external link)
thank you for the links, looks like I have a lot of learning to do. This whole focus thing gets more complicated with every new camera that comes out. I just want to take pictures, don't want to have to read all day. Really takes away from all the fun. Guess that can explain why I stopped taking photos for so long. It was also suggested I microadjust my lens combo. Don't know how to do that either....grrrr. Read read read.

Understanding the point about AF sensitivity not aligning to the marked AF points and also learning how to micro focus adjust are a couple of things well worth understanding/doing and they'll make many of those misses slightly less frustrating.

You cam micro focus adjust on the fly to a reasonable degree. Just get down low and focus near the base of something like a post sticking out of the ground/grass making sure to get the ground in the picture. Have a look at the ground and see what's in focus. If it's in front of the post move the micro adjust slider towards the mountain etc. and repeat the exercise until the focal plane sits nicely in line with the post.


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huntersdad
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Feb 11, 2015 08:41 |  #1714

britt777 wrote in post #17426881 (external link)
just took these shots. No doubt the shot without the tc is sharper. I also took on shot at f4 and another at f8. f8 also much sharper.
So I am seeing that everything appears very soft when shooting wide open...hmmm. Soft does not work for me. I guess the next test is another lens.

How far away are these? Also, give us your settings. If you look at the tree in each one, it is in the same focus. The sign definitely changes.


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mccamli
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Feb 11, 2015 08:43 |  #1715

britt777 wrote in post #17426881 (external link)
just took these shots. No doubt the shot without the tc is sharper. I also took on shot at f4 and another at f8. f8 also much sharper.
So I am seeing that everything appears very soft when shooting wide open...hmmm. Soft does not work for me. I guess the next test is another lens.

That sounds to me like a micro focus adjustment issue. The picture without the tc should be sharper than with. You need to MFA with and without the TC and you might get very different results.

At f/4 the depth of field is much thinner than at f/8. If the focal plane at f/4 is in front of the subject by a bit then going to f/8 might just broaden the plane enough to get the subject in focus.


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britt777
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Post edited over 3 years ago by britt777.
     
Feb 11, 2015 08:50 |  #1716

huntersdad wrote in post #17426886 (external link)
How far away are these? Also, give us your settings. If you look at the tree in each one, it is in the same focus. The sign definitely changes.

shot on left ISO 200- One shot-single point center 1/3200 sec f4 195mm no TC
shot on right ISO 200- One shot-single point center 1/3200 sec f4 273mm TC

then cropped about 1/4 mile away


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britt777
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Post edited over 3 years ago by britt777.
     
Feb 11, 2015 08:54 |  #1717

My 1.4x TC is original version. Starting to think this is not a good combo. Still not liking the fact that the camera is soft wide open. I like to do a lot of wild life photography and usually shoot wide open.
Guess for the real test is to shoot exact same shot with my 1d mark III ;)


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huntersdad
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Feb 11, 2015 08:57 |  #1718

Brittany, find something closer - think 30-40 feet. Shooting something a 1/4 mile away opens the door to all kinds of atmospheric abnormalities which will affect sharpness. Shoot a tree or some cereal boxes or something. Nothing special and shoot wide open.


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Post edited over 3 years ago by Canon-Chas. (2 edits in all)
     
Feb 11, 2015 09:06 as a reply to  @ britt777's post |  #1719

Try this test chart, do a screen capture of it or download if possible. Stick it on a card sheet at 45 degrees, take some pics single point focus wide open on the centre from about ten feet on a tripod. If bottom half is more in focus your camera is front focusing so you will have to go + . Try +5 for starters to see if there is any difference. If the top half is more in focus your camera is rear focusing so go minus - . Again try _5 for starters
http://www.ophrysphoto​graphy.co.uk …allensmicroadju​stment.htm (external link)



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britt777
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Feb 11, 2015 09:16 as a reply to  @ huntersdad's post |  #1720

I will take some closer shots, but just took some with the 1D and got much better results wide open, so no doubt shooting wide open on the 7D = Soft.... no thanksvmad


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huntersdad
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Feb 11, 2015 09:20 as a reply to  @ britt777's post |  #1721

You need to MA the lens first. The 1D3 provides a deeper depth of field, so it could be masking issues. Take the time, adjust the lens and then make your decision.


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Post edited over 3 years ago by 8612images.
     
Feb 11, 2015 10:03 |  #1722

This body is a Pain in the...

either that or my 70-200 is bad


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Feb 11, 2015 10:12 |  #1723

britt777 wrote in post #17426812 (external link)
thank you for the links, looks like I have a lot of learning to do. This whole focus thing gets more complicated with every new camera that comes out. I just want to take pictures, don't want to have to read all day. Really takes away from all the fun. Guess that can explain why I stopped taking photos for so long. It was also suggested I microadjust my lens combo. Don't know how to do that either....grrrr. Read read read.

I feel your pain ! Trouble is we aren't working with cameras any more, it's a computer ! :cry: :rolleyes: :-( :-D:love: = (mixed emotions)


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itw
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Feb 11, 2015 10:14 |  #1724

huntersdad wrote in post #17426870 (external link)
Brittany,

Here's a quick lesson in microadjustment:

1. Mount lens and camera on a stable tripod at a reasonable shooting distance from your subject (Canon suggests 50x FL). Camera should be in One Shot mode, center point ONLY and, for ease, turn on the AF Beep confirmation.

2. Activate LiveView and focus on a high contrast, well lit subject.

3. Once focus is achieved, turn AF off on the lens. DO NOT MOVE THE AF RING OR TRIPOD - IF YOU DO START OVER.

4. Go into your AF Adjustment menu under the AF menu on the 7D2 (last page I believe).

5. Once inside, you'll have a bar with 20 positive and 20 negative markings. You will move down the (-) side until you do not get an instant beep and then repeat for the (+). You now have a range of numbers where the camera shows that LV and VF AF matches. Divide the number in half and either add to the negative or subtract from the positive. This is you adjustment for that lens at that FL. If you are using a prime, you are done - go test and see if you are happy. If you are using a zoom, you must now start over and do the wide or telephoto end (the 7d2 allows for wide and tele adjustments and then adjusts the middle ranges based on the adjustment range). Remember to recalculate the 50X distance.

6. Complete this process for each lens and each lens/TC combo you use on the camera. Some lens may require no adjustment, some a lot, some on the tele end, some on the wide end.


It sounds complicated, but once you do it a time or 2, it's pretty easy. For best results, do it outside with sunlight on your target.

Thanks for this !


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Kickflipkid687
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Post edited over 3 years ago by Kickflipkid687.
     
Feb 11, 2015 10:57 |  #1725

This article someone just posted on here makes sense/ or would explain some issues we've seen.

http://blogs.stonestep​s.ca/showpost.aspx?pid​=54 (external link)


I should test it out on the 7D II and see what happens. The actually AF point is pretty far off the viewfinder points in some cases.
The outer points seem to be actually mostly inward and don't even extend past the outer edges at all.

From what I've gathered with the 7D example, it seems like to get the best results, the center AF Point has to be completely covering the subject, or you need to use Spot AF, OR, the outer points have to be split/use the areas in between the View Finder Points to get proper focus??


This seems like it would make tracking BIF or something very inconsistent/awkward though. Maybe I just have to adjust my technique now.
It makes sense why group AF could work better though.


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7D Mark II - Focus Discussions
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