7D Mark II - Focus Discussions

gschlact wrote in post #17439247
We need your help so that we can help you.
Image posting to the Forum without a link to the Original jpg doesn't help us decipher sharpness / focus issues.
1. had you MFA'ed your lens on the 7dii? (5diii values are irrelevant) . The MFA places the focal plan where intended.
2. what shutter speed and focal length on the image you shared?
3. was IS (image stablization) on or off?
4. First / second shutter priority, Focus or Release?
5. the image is soft for sure, but it appears there might be some front focus as well as some motion (IS / technique / other?) Shutter speed, FL, and IS values will help.
6. which Case were you set on and what were parameter values?

Don't give up yet.

Thanks

1. using three methods (FoCal. dot-tune, shooting a ruler at an angle)
2. 1/1000, f3.2, 175mm, ISO 3200
3. IS on
4. First and second priority: Focus/Focus
5. technique is the same for both, IS probably doesn't help at 1/1000 but why not have it on anyway.
6. Case 6, +1 for all parameters

More drama. I agreed to send my 70-200 lens in so they could test it with that lens. In the meantime, I asked them to send me a 7D2 and 70-200 IS II as loaners while the examination of my gear was done. SInce I have spent about 30K on their products and have a Platinum CPS, they agreed.

I got two boxes today.
One box had the loaners.
The other had my body.
Shake.
My.
Head.

edit: I tested their body and mine with the same settings. Theirs sucked even more.

Archibald wrote in post #17440184
How do you check the shutter count??

http://eoscount.com/

Cost about $2, and works fine. Most good ebay sellers include this info when asked..

buddy4344 wrote in post #17428653
Fueling the fire: Looks like Artie Morris is saying you guys just don't know how to use your cameras.

http://www.birdsasart-blog.com …i100-400-ii-l-is-warning/

I agree with some of what is posted here. Not sure I'm digesting it all. Have to think about "square of the focal length" comments.

Wow he really wants to feel supreme... I guess my background as a tactical sniper leaves my technique something to desire.

Also, focus/recompose on a bird with a 1DX???????????????

rejay14 wrote in post #17440335
Thanks

1. using three methods (FoCal. dot-tune, shooting a ruler at an angle)
2. 1/1000, f3.2, 175mm, ISO 3200
3. IS on
4. First and second priority: Focus/Focus
5. technique is the same for both, IS probably doesn't help at 1/1000 but why not have it on anyway.
6. Case 6, +1 for all parameters

All those look good but #3. I learned turning it off makes a difference on mine as it seems the AF system wants to fight IS for some reason at those higher shutter speeds. Might try that and see if it helps any.

rejay14 wrote in post #17440345
Wow he really wants to feel supreme... I guess my background as a tactical sniper leaves my technique something to desire.

Artie is famous for always being right, so I guess you need to work on that breathing technique when shooting more. He also often claims that image quality doesn't fall off with the 2x teleconverter, it's just bad technique that people use with the extra effective focal length. I'm working on my 3 series gitzo tripod and cable release developing better technique when they work together because Artie has t be right.

Man. Such a pain some of you are having. Very disappointing.

I've been using my second fixed copy for awhile now. Mainly in one shot though, but it has been ok.

I rented the 100-400 ii + 1.4iii for a week. I pick it up tonight. So I'll see how it handles on my body in ai servo and whatnot. Hopefully it works well. A brand new lens on a brand new body. Can't get much better. Although my 70-200 f4 seemed right on. But again, I need to do more ai servo tests.

Although I was trying to track a flying hawk on Monday and I got some ok shots. But I think part of my issue was technique, maybe case settings and probably the slow tamron 150-600 af.

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17439891
I have a 10 page focus issue of drama out of my canon mark II. After three and a half months of fighting with canon, five trips to the repair facility and two repairs later, I finally demanded a new unit factory sealed in box. They tried everything they could to prevent replacing my unit that refused to focus. Finally I requested copies of images with exit data intact, taken by the lab techs, to prove to me it wasn't the camera. After a week of being unable to produce "good images" to send to me, they finally found the second issue that warranted it being called a "lemon." My new unit was supposed to arrive today but got held up in the storms in Tennessee. Hopefully I'll have it by tomorrow, but monday at latest.

This is exactly why my unit went back to VENDOR....That is just terrible...I don't care who you are, no one has that kind of time!!! We don't spend that kind of hard earned money to have to put up with that kind of trouble!!!

Really hoping your new camera will be everything your expecting it to be and that you get to capture many great images

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17439891
I have a 10 page focus issue of drama out of my canon mark II. After three and a half months of fighting with canon, five trips to the repair facility and two repairs later, I finally demanded a new unit factory sealed in box. They tried everything they could to prevent replacing my unit that refused to focus. Finally I requested copies of images with exit data intact, taken by the lab techs, to prove to me it wasn't the camera. After a week of being unable to produce "good images" to send to me, they finally found the second issue that warranted it being called a "lemon." My new unit was supposed to arrive today but got held up in the storms in Tennessee. Hopefully I'll have it by tomorrow, but monday at latest.

I remember you, you were one of the early adopters of the 7DII, and the problems you were having, and everyone trying to help you
Glad to hear things have been worked out for you, but not without all the AGGADA.

If the new one comes with issues, send it back for exchange, and keep doing that until you get a good one.. However, I hope the new one will work as expected.

A suggestion for your consideration would be to join the CPS program, I think if you were a member, your issues would of been settled a lot faster.

Here's the link... Read all about it. and the best to you...

http://www.cps.usa.can​on.com/

Bianchi wrote in post #17439883
... it quite easy to establish if a returned camera was repackaged by the shutter count,

Archibald wrote in post #17440184
How do you check the shutter count??

Canon-Chas wrote in post #17440337
http://eoscount.com/

Cost about $2, and works fine. Most good ebay sellers include this info when asked..

Tough to do in the store, though.

I would agree with Artie if
- He was ONLY talking about problems related to the use of teleconverters,
- This thread was ONLY talking problems related to teleconverters.

But he's not, and we're not.

To go on and say that people need a gimbal head to use the 100-400mm MkII, a lens designed from the ground up to be used hand held with the best IS in existence, is just LudiChristmas to me. This seriously forces us to question his point of view all together IMHO.


Full Disclosure, I have yet to get my hands on a 7D2.

However, having gone through some very real acknowledged and addressed by Canon problems with the 1D3 while some people claimed there was nothing wrong with it the whole time, as Artie is doing now with the 7D2, I see no reason to make such a bold and limiting assumption. It is the height of Hubris IMHO.

Regarding T-cons

For any of you introducing t-cons into the mix now that are having problems that are related to the use of teleconverters, take the T-Con off. Get it OUT of your system and out of your testing. Put it back on midway through June, or once you are confident that your camera is 100%, and learn to use that tool after you are solid without one. Understand that it won't be the same combo as the 7D2 with a bare lens.
IMHO T-Cons ALWAYS make shooting harder.

You may be reading about how well the t-cons play with the new 100-400mm MkII.
It is true, and experienced users of T-Cons that have been working hard to get good results from them are VERY happy with the lenses improved ability for such compatibility with the T-cons. However this does not change the fact that t-cons are not a magic bullet. they degrade performance and usually IQ as well in very noticeable ways.

Im not getting good results out of the new camera either. I would like a list of the full proof ways to check the focus, (about to try the angled ruler trick) Also, tell me exactly what settings to use.

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17440926
Im not getting good results out of the new camera either. I would like a list of the full proof ways to check the focus, (about to try the angled ruler trick) Also, tell me exactly what settings to use.

Go back to your other thread and read the post I did about Dot Tune. Should take you under 10 minutes to complete it and you'll have your answer if you follow the steps.

PM me if you need help.

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17440926
Im not getting good results out of the new camera either. I would like a list of the full proof ways to check the focus, (about to try the angled ruler trick) Also, tell me exactly what settings to use.

Not a good sign.

Here is what Canon Service (in Canada) told me about focus tests.

===============
BASIC SLR FOCUS TEST
===============
In order to isolate the issue that you are experiencing, we suggest performing the following focusing test and responding with the results. Due to the large number of factors that can affect focus, it is imperative that all of the settings below be adhered to in order to properly assess the situation.

1. If you use filters with your lenses please remove them for this test.
2. Use the “Clear all camera settings” and “Clear all Custom Functions” of the camera to reset the camera to its default factory settings.
3. If your camera offers the AF microadjustment feature, please ensure that it is disabled for the purposes of this test.
4. Set the Image Quality setting to "Large JPEG" (or preferably RAW if possible)
5. Set the "Picture Style" to "Standard".
6. Set the shooting mode to "aperture priority <Av>" and set the aperture to the maximum value possible (smallest f/stop) however please also ensure that it is not set any lower than f/2.8
7. Set the "ISO" speed to "100".
8. Set the "AF mode" to "One Shot". For this test, do NOT use "AI Servo" or "AI Focus" modes.
9. Set the "Drive Mode" to "Single Shot". For this test, do NOT use "Continuous" shooting mode.
10. Select only the centre auto-focus point.
11. If you use a tripod, please disable the Image Stabilization of the lens by moving the "Stabilizer" switch on the lens to the "OFF" position.
12. Place three objects of the same size on a table at different distances from the camera. From left to right, place the left most object closest to the camera and the right most object furthest from the camera. From front to back, space the objects out by about 2 to 3 inches. For easier analysis, we recommend using objects that contain text or writing on them and that contain a fair amount of contrast (i.e. avoid using objects that are completely one colour).
13. Compose or frame the image in the viewfinder so that the three objects occupy and fill as much of the frame as possible.
14. Use the centre auto-focus point to achieve focus on the centre object and then, without re-framing, capture the image. Please ensure that the centre AF point is aimed towards a part of the object that contains contrast (i.e. avoid having the AF point land on a part of the object that is completely one colour).
15. Please ensure that there is more than adequate lighting in the room. If possible this test should be performed outdoors in full daylight.
16. Please ensure that the lens is "de-focused" or purposely thrown out of focus in between every test shot. To do this, focus on an object that is located at a different distance to your intended subject and then re-perform the test.
17. Optional: redo steps 1-16 using the "Live View Shooting" feature of your camera (if available on your model). This will help isolate the issue even further.

Note that, after downloading images to your computer from a digital camera, it is tempting to magnify or print out just a part of the image once downloaded to your computer. This can magnify small errors in AF that would otherwise not be apparent when being viewed at a more traditional print size. As a result, you may see slight errors in AF magnified many times over that would not normally be visible when the image is printed. Even if small errors in AF are visible on the computer monitor, these errors may not be visible when the image is viewed as a full size print.

Please reply to this message with the image(s) captured during this test attached. Please ensure that the images are sent using the file attachment feature of your particular email system. Images are not to be embedded or pasted into the email. In the case that the file size of the images is too large for email, you may also send your files via any file sharing web site of your choosing (i.e. www.wikisend.com, Dropbox etc.). In addition, please e-mail images that have not been edited (i.e. no adjustments, no cropping, no resizing) and have been saved in the camera's native JPG/JPEG file format or RAW file format (if available).

huntersdad wrote in post #17440941
Go back to your other thread and read the post I did about Dot Tune. Should take you under 10 minutes to complete it and you'll have your answer if you follow the steps.

The camera should not need MFA to perform properly.