7D Mark II - Focus Discussions

Archibald wrote in post #17440947
The camera should not need MFA to perform properly.

Your right but unfortunately they do.

ICee wrote in post #17441299
Your right but unfortunately they do.

Thank you.

I have already sold my fully performing 7D body with the intention of purchasing a new 7D Mark II but reading this specific topic has made me have second thoughts. One thing I am curious about is if these focus problems are specific to bodies sold in the USA and Canada. I haven't seen many (if at all) focus problems reported here from UK members.

Is this wishful thinking? I need to buy before the end of next month.

Any responses from the UK would be greatly appreciated.

This is the test I did on the other body that showed me it was not focusing properly.

Archibald wrote in post #17440945
Not a good sign.

Here is what Canon Service (in Canada) told me about focus tests.

===============
BASIC SLR FOCUS TEST
===============
In order to isolate the issue that you are experiencing, we suggest performing the following focusing test and responding with the results. Due to the large number of factors that can affect focus, it is imperative that all of the settings below be adhered to in order to properly assess the situation.

1. If you use filters with your lenses please remove them for this test.
2. Use the “Clear all camera settings” and “Clear all Custom Functions” of the camera to reset the camera to its default factory settings.
3. If your camera offers the AF microadjustment feature, please ensure that it is disabled for the purposes of this test.
4. Set the Image Quality setting to "Large JPEG" (or preferably RAW if possible)
5. Set the "Picture Style" to "Standard".
6. Set the shooting mode to "aperture priority <Av>" and set the aperture to the maximum value possible (smallest f/stop) however please also ensure that it is not set any lower than f/2.8
7. Set the "ISO" speed to "100".
8. Set the "AF mode" to "One Shot". For this test, do NOT use "AI Servo" or "AI Focus" modes.
9. Set the "Drive Mode" to "Single Shot". For this test, do NOT use "Continuous" shooting mode.
10. Select only the centre auto-focus point.
11. If you use a tripod, please disable the Image Stabilization of the lens by moving the "Stabilizer" switch on the lens to the "OFF" position.
12. Place three objects of the same size on a table at different distances from the camera. From left to right, place the left most object closest to the camera and the right most object furthest from the camera. From front to back, space the objects out by about 2 to 3 inches. For easier analysis, we recommend using objects that contain text or writing on them and that contain a fair amount of contrast (i.e. avoid using objects that are completely one colour).
13. Compose or frame the image in the viewfinder so that the three objects occupy and fill as much of the frame as possible.
14. Use the centre auto-focus point to achieve focus on the centre object and then, without re-framing, capture the image. Please ensure that the centre AF point is aimed towards a part of the object that contains contrast (i.e. avoid having the AF point land on a part of the object that is completely one colour).
15. Please ensure that there is more than adequate lighting in the room. If possible this test should be performed outdoors in full daylight.
16. Please ensure that the lens is "de-focused" or purposely thrown out of focus in between every test shot. To do this, focus on an object that is located at a different distance to your intended subject and then re-perform the test.
17. Optional: redo steps 1-16 using the "Live View Shooting" feature of your camera (if available on your model). This will help isolate the issue even further.

Note that, after downloading images to your computer from a digital camera, it is tempting to magnify or print out just a part of the image once downloaded to your computer. This can magnify small errors in AF that would otherwise not be apparent when being viewed at a more traditional print size. As a result, you may see slight errors in AF magnified many times over that would not normally be visible when the image is printed. Even if small errors in AF are visible on the computer monitor, these errors may not be visible when the image is viewed as a full size print.

Please reply to this message with the image(s) captured during this test attached. Please ensure that the images are sent using the file attachment feature of your particular email system. Images are not to be embedded or pasted into the email. In the case that the file size of the images is too large for email, you may also send your files via any file sharing web site of your choosing (i.e. www.wikisend.com, Dropbox etc.). In addition, please e-mail images that have not been edited (i.e. no adjustments, no cropping, no resizing) and have been saved in the camera's native JPG/JPEG file format or RAW file format (if available).

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17441427
This is the test I did on the other body that showed me it was not focusing properly.

OK, repeat with the new body and see what the results are. A guy at Canon (US) told me Canon Service does tests like this. (Can't you just see those techs in their lab coats arranging the cereal boxes? Actually, I think he said they use bottles.)

If the body flunks this test, there is no alternative but to send it back. Only this time I would charge Canon rent for all the time they have had your camera.

But if the new body passes, then you need to do more tests. Check out the conditions you normally encounter with your kind of shooting. But, make sure the light is good, use a high shutter speed, single point AF (not spot), and that there are no objects anywhere close to the AF point that might attract the attention of the AF system. (The AF point is way bigger than it appears in the viewfinder.)

If it still passes or gets pretty close, THEN I would try spot focus and tune the camera by going into the advanced settings like MFA.

Testing cameras and lenses is awful. Sorry about this.

I sent this to you in Pm.

"Ive been googling everything I can on this camera for the last 6 hours. I think this guy is describing exactly what I have been dealing with. It makes me to just want to sell the body and get something else. He really starts discussing the issues around 24 minutes.

http://froknowsphoto.c​om/canon-7d-markii-review/

I do more family sessions than anything else, and I need something that is going to be consistently sharp. After three months of fighting this thing, I just don't know how much more I can tolerate on trying to make it work right. "

Apparently, this is just a true issue with this camera. And that "subtle" lack of sharp focus drives me absolutely bonkers. If there is a way to correct this issue, Im all for it. Just please, make this as painless as possible. I really don't know how much more I can take!! *losing my mind*

I don't own a 7DII, nor do I want to at this point. That being said, and I put my flame suit in before I say this. I've never owned a camera where I had to fight it to focus correctly. If your doing BIF and are missing the bird early on when it locks on, and in turn, you're locking on to the wrong subject, that may be user error. But I'm seeing photos of still subjects, that quite frankly look horrible. I really feel bad for you folks that have invested not only the time, but the money in these bodies. The real concerning issue to me, is that people are getting multiple replacement bodies with the same issue. I understand that there is a learning curve withering these focusing systems, but c'mon, are we truly to believe that this is all user error at this point?

Yes, its been quite frustrating to have people tell me that I am just not doing it right. Three months in, and 7 years of shooting canon, if I can't make the ****ing photos come out, then its the camera.

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17441528
Yes, its been quite frustrating to have people tell me that I am just not doing it right. Three months in, and 7 years of shooting canon, if I can't make the ****ing photos come out, then its the camera.

In your situation, after what you have gone through, and if simple tests with the new body fail, I would look for a way to bail.

I watched that video you posted from 24 min on. Have you noticed that the focus is a at a different point than where you chose initially? My personal opinion, after reading many reviews and threads is that his new focusing system was probably rushed out. I also think that there are also cameras out there with this issue, where some less finicky owners are not looking close enough, or aren't as demanding.

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17441528
Yes, its been quite frustrating to have people tell me that I am just not doing it right. Three months in, and 7 years of shooting canon, if I can't make the ****ing photos come out, then its the camera.

How do you know it's not the lens?

Because it happens with the 50mm prime, the 28-135 and the 17-55. I also just paid for an 85mm 1.8 prime and will of course test it on the camera when it comes in. But all these these lenses work perfectly on my 40D and focus is sharp. Do you think in three months of owning this totally ****ed camera that I haven't tested and tried everything that the photographers on here, as well as the canon service reps, have told me to? And the fact that this issue is happening time after time, body after body, with professionals included, how long will this be blamed on me or the lens? It's the camera.

Frodge wrote in post #17441540
I watched that video you posted from 24 min on. Have you noticed that the focus is a at a different point than where you chose initially? My personal opinion, after reading many reviews and threads is that his new focusing system was probably rushed out. I also think that there are also cameras out there with this issue, where some less finicky owners are not looking close enough, or aren't as demanding.

Im demanding and ocd. So yeah, I will see things that the average photographer won't, or might not find annoying. But when I spend $1800 on a camera, I want the thing to work and work consistently and accurately. This camera has done none of that. Maybe I got another bad body? But I have seen professional reviews, like the one I just posted the video of, and they are seeing the same thing I am. They are having the exact same issue. The camera has inconsistent focus and does not focus where you tell it to.

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17441619
Because it happens with the 50mm prime, the 28-135 and the 17-55. I also just paid for an 85mm 1.8 prime and will of course test it on the camera when it comes in. But all these these lenses work perfectly on my 40D and focus is sharp. Do you think in three months of owning this totally ****ed camera that I haven't tested and tried everything that the photographers on here, as well as the canon service reps, have told me to? And the fact that this issue is happening time after time, body after body, with professionals included, how long will this be blamed on me or the lens? It's the camera.

Post some full sized pics and EXIF data.

BTW, I went through 4 bodies to get a good one, so I understand the frustration. You can't compare the 40d and this camera as they are light years apart. Your technique has to be better with the 7d2 due to the pixel density, which I am sure you are aware of.

I'm not saying the camera is a good one and you're doing something wrong. I'm also not saying the opposite. I'm just trying to help.

Sent you a PM also.

I am truly sorry for those that continue to have issues.

I was finally able to get out and do some testing of the camera after I received it back from Canon and the "electronic adjustments". Things are much better now! I am no longer getting the occasional front focus, even with static object, that I was getting previously. I just need to mess with the cases some more, and which/how many focus points to use in different scenarios.