7D Mark II - Focus Discussions

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17442458
I am terrified to mfa my camera as well. I noticed that the new camera has a slight front focus. Saw it in pictures of my son yesterday. Anyone want to call my personal number and hand hold me through the mfa process lol

Don't be worried; it's not permanent.

Check out the AF Dot Tune You Tube video. It's really easy to do and don't take much time.

Just to let you know, mine front focused and I sent to Canon and they confirmed it and after Maf things were tons better. Front focusing seems to be the them for this camera body.

https://www.google.com …ddress&ie=&oe=&​gws_rd=ssl

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17442458
I am terrified to mfa my camera as well. I noticed that the new camera has a slight front focus. Saw it in pictures of my son yesterday. Anyone want to call my personal number and hand hold me through the mfa process lol

Short of hand holding, this is the best tutorial I have found: http://www.ophrysphoto​graphy.co.uk …allensmicroadju​stment.htm

I use a modified version of his chart or a tilted ruler with a focus target stuck on it. It is not rocket science once you get started.

I've seen this posted a few times.
I question the fact that the target is the ruler set on an angle.
For many years the accepted standard is that one HAS to focus on a subject that is not at an angle to absolutely nail down where the AF point is trying to focus.


Unless I am missing something, and I don't think I am, this system is advising against Canon or any previously accepted means. This tutorial asks you to focus on the angled/sloped ruler as the target.

I highly disagree with this methodology. I feel that with this method you will NEVER know where your AF point is focusing. This method is guaranteed to present inconsistent results and will cause many people to become even more frustrated.

You MUST use a good target as described in the vast majority of focus test methods.

Interestingly, what you describe, ( attaching a focus target to a tilted ruler etc,) is the proper way, but not what your link is describing!


More on focus targets and MFA methods;
http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …ate_EOS_AF_Quic​kGuide.pdf

Dot Tune

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk …s3_af_micoadjus​tment.html

http://michaeltapesdes​ign.com/lensalign.html

http://www.graphics.co​rnell.edu/~westin/misc​/res-chart.html

butterfly2937 wrote in post #17445659
You have to do MA with a brightly lit target either with a LED or daylight is best. You are not testing low light performance at this point. You want to accurately calibrate your lens and camera. Well lit target no shadows and daylight or artificial lighting that supplies daylight color is best. Also, absolute proper alignment of the focal plane is necessary for accurate results. I like LensAlign with Focus Tune the best out of any method I have tried because done correctly it takes all of these factors into account.

I was describing the lighting for the shots. MFA was done in very bright light.

Archibald wrote in post #17445838
This is good advice. Don't invent your own procedure for MFA. Follow a proven method.

I followed the Dot Tune method and it worked great.

I didn't. I used Dot Tune, FoCal, Focus Genie and a tape measure.

I'm on my second 7D2 body from B&H and this one doesn't focus any better than the first one, and this is after I sent it in to Tamron with my 150-600 lens to get it calibrated. I'm having the same issues other people are reporting: inconsistent focus (single point) on static subjects and no focus (expanded points) when tracking birds in flight (Bald Eagles - not a small target). All of my wildlife shooting is done using an Induro CT-313 tripod and Wimberley Gimbal Head (a real Wimberley, not the knock-offs that are out there.)

I'll be contacting both B&H and Canon tomorrow to see if I can either get this issue resolved or get my money back on this camera. I don't have any issues hitting focus with any of my lenses with my 5D3 or 7D, but I can't get consistent focus with any lens on my 7D2, and it's really infuriating. Glad I'm not the only one experiencing this fiasco!

One more thing: has anyone else noticed Canon's new camera offerings (5DS and 5DS/R) are using the same old 61-point AF system in the 5D3 and 1DX? Has Canon discovered a flaw in its new super 65-point AF system and decided not to test the patience of higher-end buyers?

No, that's not the reason. The 65 point AF system used in the 7D Mark II id designed to fit APS-C cameras, but the 61 point AF system used in the 1DX, 5D Mark III, 5DS and 5DSR is designed for full frame cameras. The relative coverage of the AF points inside the field of view is different.

Also, the accuray of several points in the 61-point system is higher than what's delivered by the 65 point system, so it's not that one of them is in every aspect better than the other. They have different advantages.

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #17448068
More on focus targets and MFA methods;
http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …ate_EOS_AF_Quic​kGuide.pdf

Dot Tune

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk …s3_af_micoadjus​tment.html

http://michaeltapesdes​ign.com/lensalign.html

http://www.graphics.co​rnell.edu/~westin/misc​/res-chart.html

These links should be in a sticky somewhere for this site!

Here are my test shots after getting my 85mm in the mail today, checking for focusing issues and adjusting because there was a slight back focus.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rjTJ​CG

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/r5Ba​iy

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/qqbZ​VC

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/qqpe​VM

Looks like plenty of detail in the cat's eyes and the boy's hair. How do you feel about it?

It looks good to me. Still gotta play around with it and see if I can't get better photos out of it lower than 1/160, and guess I will be using dot focus to tune up my other lenses.

I went through 3 bodies myself, and sent my 3rd body in for service. Pictures are better for me...but you still have that "loss of confidence" factor to deal with...which makes you suspicious of every picture you take (sharp or blurry). Overall I think I'm in a better spot with this camera than my first body, for sure.

ScPhotoMom--I've been tracking your ordeal from the start...if it helps, those pictures above are the best I've seen from your camera(s).

Hope the additional use of your camera restores your eroded confidence in the body, as well as your technique It's not always user error folks!

PP

1/160th is often not fast enough to overcome both your focal length, AND your movement in conjunction with your subject, especially with no flash. It may have worked out from time to time on a lesser resolution body, but for a sensor with twice the resolution, you need to speed up the shutter a bit, especially if you zoom in to look at 100%.

Yeah, I got consistently awesome photos even at 1/80th on my 40d. I suppose I will just have to accept 1/160 to be my minimal instead of 1/80.

ScPhotoMom wrote in post #17449902
Here are my test shots after getting my 85mm in the mail today, checking for focusing issues and adjusting because there was a slight back focus.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rjTJ​CG G49A0814SOC by Creative Captures by Crystal, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/r5Ba​iy G49A0826SOC by Creative Captures by Crystal, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/qqbZ​VC G49A0830SOC by Creative Captures by Crystal, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/qqpe​VM G49A0833SOC by Creative Captures by Crystal, on Flickr

I noticed that even on non moving objects however, that the sort of shaky focus that drives me nuts, is still present when my shutter speed drops below 1/160th of a second. Some one mentioned a harder mirror slap?

These look pretty good.

It's been a long journey...