7D Mark II - Focus Discussions

smythie wrote in post #17827471
Should add a note of caution as to the differing effects that different types of lights (e.g. incandescant, fluorescent, sunlight) can have on MFA results too

No one should be using fluorescent because if the flicker rate. I went to a local photo store and got a couple of studio CFL's which have a colour temp of 5500. Close to natural daylight.

You can get GFL's around 5,000 at your hardware store.

http://www.scientifica​merican.com …llacy-cfl-bulb-headaches/

I'd recommend a tweak to the method of using a tilted tape-measure. When using single-point (which one should, for this) the camera focuses on the nearest point within the single focus point. Unfortunately, the focus point is not a pinpoint, but a small area, larger than the centre of the single point mark in the viewfinder. As such, when focussing on the 1 ft mark, the focus area may include from, let's say, 11-13 inches. While the centre may be 12 inches, the closest point may be 13 inches, making your camera focus at the 13 inch mark (even if you were pointed at 12).

This is easily remedied. Just place a high-contrast target next to the tape measure, square (upright) to the camera, exactly at the 1ft mark, and focus on that. Then, read the result off the tape measure before making adjustments.

This distance should not be an issue i can actually get a bit further I think.

Thanks I'm going to try these tomorrow and I have a brand new yellow yard stick I can use
Thanks
John

Page 2 explains the distance and how the lens stabilizes.

http://s449182328.webs​itehome.co.uk …20Test%20Distan​ce_1.1.pdf

Angled subject material like that doesn't work well, especially trying to focus on one out of several marks. You need a vertical subject with the measuring "device" off to the side a bit to show you where focus lies. I don't like the bill on the wall method, because it takes too long. You can see how little the AF actually moves from 0 to +19 in my sample below.

Here is my test, long hallway with hardwood floor, using my 500mm. I use spot AF, and the subject just fits around that AF point. LED lighting... Within 4 tries or so I can narrow down exactly where I want it. If you click my signature on the focus genie, I think that sale post has a link to a thread where you can download my DIY focus chart that is a free alternative to what I sell.

Something like the LensAlign tool

digital paradise wrote in post #17827491
No one should be using fluorescent because if the flicker rate. I went to a local photo store and got a couple of studio CFL's which have a colour temp of 5500. Close to natural daylight.

You can get GFL's around 5,000 at your hardware store.

http://www.scientifica​merican.com …llacy-cfl-bulb-headaches/

All CFLs and LEDs flicker, due to the AC cycling, correct? Also, I am not sure that it is the flicker necessarily that causes focus shifts? I am pretty sure it is the color temperatures can cause issues with the different wavelengths.

Or this...

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17827508
All CFLs and LEDs flicker, due to the AC cycling, correct? Also, I am not sure that it is the flicker necessarily that causes focus shifts? I am pretty sure it is the color temperatures can cause issues with the different wavelengths.

Yes but so fast if won't effect it. I did so some searches and it does not effect studio exposures.

I have something similar that I made a while back Ill have to try it
Thanks
John

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17827504
Angled subject material like that doesn't work well, especially trying to focus on one out of several marks. You need a vertical subject with the measuring "device" off to the side a bit to show you where focus lies. I don't like the bill on the wall method, because it takes too long. You can see how little the AF actually moves from 0 to +19 in my sample below.

Here is my test, long hallway with hardwood floor, using my 500mm. I use spot AF, and the subject just fits around that AF point. LED lighting... Within 4 tries or so I can narrow down exactly where I want it. If you click my signature on the focus genie, I think that sale post has a link to a thread where you can download my DIY focus chart that is a free alternative to what I sell.

Hosted photo: posted by TeamSpeed in
./showthread.php?p=178​27504&i=i169528762
forum: Canon Digital Cameras

Hosted photo: posted by TeamSpeed in
./showthread.php?p=178​27504&i=i88801287
forum: Canon Digital Cameras

Yeah that angled thing was pretty big at one time. When MFA first came out everyone was downloading printable paper targets and doing it in a short distance at a 45 degree angle. Not the best for expensive precision equipment.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17827504
Angled subject material like that doesn't work well, especially trying to focus on one out of several marks. You need a vertical subject with the measuring "device" off to the side a bit to show you where focus lies. I don't like the bill on the wall method, because it takes too long. You can see how little the AF actually moves from 0 to +19 in my sample below.

Here is my test, long hallway with hardwood floor, using my 500mm. I use spot AF, and the subject just fits around that AF point. LED lighting... Within 4 tries or so I can narrow down exactly where I want it. If you click my signature on the focus genie, I think that sale post has a link to a thread where you can download my DIY focus chart that is a free alternative to what I sell.

Hosted photo: posted by TeamSpeed in
./showthread.php?p=178​27504&i=i169528762
forum: Canon Digital Cameras

Hosted photo: posted by TeamSpeed in
./showthread.php?p=178​27504&i=i88801287
forum: Canon Digital Cameras

Now known as the "hardwood floor method".

I was hoping to get an email when I got home from work from Canon Tech Support that my new 7D2 had shipped.... maybe tomorrow.

you know i think what pond ( who is one hell of a wildlife shooter in my book) is trying to say to you guys who keep banging on about mfa'ing the camera is that mfa isnt going to do it ( and before any of you jump down my throat yes i do do it from time to time on my gear ) - sure it may help slightly but it isnt going to bring him back to where he was with that original 1 in a zillion 7dmk11 he had and he has shot enough to more or less know that fairly quickly - say after a few days use

imho experienced real life wildlife shooters know after a fairly short time if its a real good camera and / or a great lens it just kind of tells you by feel and view and for me my 600 d is a really good camera but my 7 d is just an also ran unit and my 7d mk 11 is somewhere in between but closer to the 600 d than the 7d - and be it mfa'd or not that rating does not change

just saying folks - so give the guy a break hey - he had a great camera and now its gone for reasons that are not his doing and we would all be pretty sad about that if it was us
cheers rob

Yes, the link to the free one is in my sale post. The DIY looks like this when done.