7D Mark II - Focus Discussions

keeperseeker wrote in post #17847673
Have you also tried the depth of field button to switch also, I find that works good also.

I experimented with the DOF button, but didn't like it as I always found myself reaching and searching for it.

graham121 wrote in post #17847614
I also like this http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …s7dmkii_zoneaf_​afpt.shtml

I like the part about a major difference between expanded and zone being expanded does not dance around the viewfinder to chase an erratically moving subject, whereas zone does.

Many think I'm nuts but that is why I don't bother with expansion in cases 5 and 6. Even if the AF points switch faster you still have to work just as hard at keeping the AF cluster or part of it on the subject at all times. I reserve cases 5 and 6 for zone. If I need the AF points to switch faster I just increase that setting in the other cases. I use case 2 most of the time for single point or expansion for precision tracking. I find I get more benefit setting TS to - 2 in expansion than increasing AF point switching.

Of course you can use case 1 to match any case number by adjusting the parameters but this just makes it easier to have a process to follow when in the field.

keeperseeker wrote in post #17847673
Have you also tried the depth of field button to switch also, I find that works good also.

I may try using the depth of field button i don't use it anyway. Thanks for the input.

Are you manually adjusting these or are you making some sort of custom settin? The cases are where i am a bit stuck. Just using case 1 for now

I read the first 26ish pages. I am done. I'm pretty comfortable with using these cameras. I'll pop back in if I experience any problems. I did pick up some additional info thanks to the earlier links provided. Thanks to everyone for the feedback.

Cheers.

Tommydigi wrote in post #17847741
Are you manually adjusting these or are you making some sort of custom settin? The cases are where i am a bit stuck. Just using case 1 for now

Personally, I don't like using Case numbers, I can't see to remember which is which. I find it much easier to simply adjust the 3 subparameters, in fact, I added the three of them to the Green User Favorites Menu for quick change if necessary.

gschlact wrote in post #17848325
Personally, I don't like using Case numbers, I can't see to remember which is which. I find it much easier to simply adjust the 3 subparameters, in fact, I added the three of them to the Green User Favorites Menu for quick change if necessary.

This will be what I need to learn next. I would think just leaving it in general ( case 1 ) would be ok?

Tommydigi wrote in post #17848338
This will be what I need to learn next. I would think just leaving it in general ( case 1 ) would be ok?

Listen to what the presenter says in the first minute.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7sgRZBo-WKI

gschlact wrote in post #17848325
Personally, I don't like using Case numbers, I can't see to remember which is which. I find it much easier to simply adjust the 3 subparameters, in fact, I added the three of them to the Green User Favorites Menu for quick change if necessary.

I love them. I have them memorized and have fined tuned a few parameters in each one.

Tommydigi wrote in post #17848338
This will be what I need to learn next. I would think just leaving it in general ( case 1 ) would be ok?

Case 2 is as probably a better Case to use as a start if you don't make any changes.
But, it is really worthwhile to understand what the individual subsettings do so that you can match it to your area(s) of pjotography.

The 7dii Advanced Focusing manual is a good read so that you can compare what the different subsettings are between the cases and get an idea of what they do.

digital paradise wrote in post #17848343
Listen to what the presenter says in the first minute.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7sgRZBo-WKI

I guess unless I set up the C1,C2,C3 with different parameters it would be hard to adjust these on the fly. For instance a bird can do any of these erratic to smooth movement depending. Seems hard to know which to use when. Wouldn't a more general setup be best?

I'll have to play around with it, I think I've been on case 1 or 2 most of the time so far.

digital paradise wrote in post #17848346
I love them. I have them memorized and have fined tuned a few parameters in each one.

I understand. Once set, the only parameter I tweak is TS, I have not found a reason to change from my accel/decel=+2, and AF Point Switching=+2.
Have you noticed reason in your shooting to use lower values for these two?

Tommydigi wrote in post #17848352
I guess unless I set up the C1,C2,C3 with different parameters it would be hard to adjust these on the fly. For instance a bird can do any of these erratic to smooth movement depending. Seems hard to know which to use when. Wouldn't a more general setup be best?

I'll have to play around with it, I think I've been on case 1 or 2 most of the time so far.

Look at my values in above post. I have found them helpful and better for both smooth and erratic shooting, especially if the bird is approaching you. TS does get adjusted.

gschlact wrote in post #17848362
Look at my values in above post. I have found them helpful and better for both smooth and erratic shooting, especially if the bird is approaching you. TS does get adjusted.

I'll give it a try, thanks

gschlact wrote in post #17848354
I understand. Once set, the only parameter I tweak is TS, I have not found a reason to change from my accel/decel=+2, and AF Point Switching=+2.
Have you noticed reason in your shooting to use lower values for these two?

Hard to see what accel/decel is doing because it is tuned for subjects that stop and start but based on what Canon say - for objects approaching or leaving you. If you have radical movement then you would apply a more aggressive setting. Case 4 is recommended for that and you can tune it.

AF switching in Zone AF you can actually see a change. Set it to 65 point and 0. Pan your camera and pay attention to how the speed the AF points switch. Try 2 and try to pan the same with the same speed.

Case 1 is the basic for 80% of most shooting. The rest are tweaks.

Case 2 just decreases TS to -1 to prevent the system from focusing on something else. Mine is on -2.

Case 3 is for something entering the frame and you want the system to focus on it. Kinda the opposite of Case 2. Obviously if you are in single or expansion and depending where the cluster is the object has to be covered by that cluster. I think this would be good for mot cross, etc where you want to focus quickly from one rider to the next.

I don't use it but I set it to what birder Art Morris uses. Pedal to the metal -2, 2, 2. I have yet to try it. If I need it for motocross then I'll just go back to factory settings or increase TS in Cases 1 or 2.

Case 4 for things coming towards and away erratically.

Case 5 is for up, down, left and right.

Case 6 is the grand poobah. Up, down, left, right, towards, and away.

If you are using expansion in cases 5 and 6 you need to be just as diligent in tracking as you would using case 2. More aggressive AF switching may give you some advantage but I have not found it yet. I find adjusting TS does more for me.