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Thread started 14 Nov 2014 (Friday) 04:00
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help with my settings

 
tjs42
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Nov 14, 2014 04:00 |  #1

i have the 70d and using the 17-50mm. in my sons gym the other night the pics were almost black. my settings were tv iso 400. shutter 450 and 2.8. the lighting was flouresent and not the best. im sure i had used these same settings in the gym before and had decent pics. when i changed the iso to auto got a lot brighter but were so grainy. dont want to use a flash. i keep changing my settings as im a complete novice so still experimenting but, have not wrote any of my settings down doh. suggestions please




  
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Tiberius
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Nov 14, 2014 05:12 |  #2

Try using a slower shutter speed, that is quite fast and doesn't let much light in. Set the camera to manual mode, then set your aperture to f2.8, ISO to 400 and then adjust your shutter speed to get a decent exposure. Careful not to let it go too slow though, you you'll get camera shake blurring your photos. If that happens, increase the ISO to 800.


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JeffreyG
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Nov 14, 2014 05:20 |  #3

In order to shoot low light action, it helps if you understand the basics of exposure, and how the three settings (aperture, ISO and shutter speed) interact. You can Google that for several fine primers online.

Then do this when you arrive at the venue:
1) Set M mode
2) Select a shutter speed that will stop action. For fast sports like HS basketball 1/800 is preferred and 1/500 is kind of the floor before motion will creep into shots. Some sports might be OK with slower shutter speeds if there are periods when the athletes are paused.
3) Set the aperture wide open, f/2.8 in your case.
4) Pick a starting ISO (I'd try 3200 to 12800) and take a test shot. Check the image and histogram. You want to push white tones in the scene all the way to the right of the histogram, on the edge of blowing out but not quite blown, so keep changing the ISO until you find that through test shots. Once you find that ISO, you are all set.

If this places your ISO higher than you like for the camera you have, there are options:
1) Apply noise reduction with software. The NR in DPP (free!) is pretty good.
2) Get a faster lens.
3) Get a body that makes less noise at higher ISO.
4) Set up strobes and remotes and light the whole space. This requires a different approach to all settings (not the same as detailed above) because now you have to slow down the shutter to sync speed and then stop down to eliminate ambient light.

The latter three choices can get real expensive real fast, and in a lot of cases it isn't possible to set up lights or lighting is banned for the sport in question (like gymnastics).


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NullMember
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Nov 14, 2014 06:37 |  #4
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Set the camera to AV. Set the aperture to f2.8 and then adjust the ISO until you get a shutter speed of about 1/640.




  
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iowajim
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Nov 14, 2014 06:44 |  #5

That's a classic problem. I agree with the others, but I'd take a slightly different tactic. Set your shutter as slow as you can go. Depending on the sport you might get away with 1/100. The camera will probably choose a wide open aperture anyway, and then auto ISO. You might benefit from forcing the exposure to the right, called "ETTR" as well. This tactic improves the photo greatly, but let's spare that discussion for another time.

At any rate, set the shutter speed to the longest that will still stop the motion, let the camera open the aperture and set the ISO accordingly, and it'll be as good as it gets.


Jim, in Iowa
80D / T2i / Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 / Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 / Canon 24-105 f4 / Tamron SP VC 70-200mm f2.8 / Sigma 150-600mm C

  
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JeffreyG
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Nov 14, 2014 06:52 |  #6

john crossley wrote in post #17271281 (external link)
Set the camera to AV. Set the aperture to f2.8 and then adjust the ISO until you get a shutter speed of about 1/640.

If you know you want 1/640 and f/2.8, what is the point of using Av mode? Why not just use M mode, pick the settings you need and then adjust ISO to get the right exposure. And in general in a gym the light will be consistent and there is no use for auto-metered modes.

If you need auto-exposure, auto-ISO in M mode will do that.


My personal stuff:http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jngirbach/sets/ (external link)
I use a Canon 5DIII and a Sony A7rIII

  
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JeffreyG
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Nov 14, 2014 06:59 |  #7

iowajim wrote in post #17271284 (external link)
That's a classic problem. I agree with the others, but I'd take a slightly different tactic. Set your shutter as slow as you can go. Depending on the sport you might get away with 1/100.

The OP mentioned a gym, presumably shooting activity. 1/100 shutter speed is barely adequate for people standing around. I'd guess the OP tried 1/400 in Tv mode trying to freeze action.

The weakness of Tv is that when you pick too low of an ISO, it just runs out of aperture and underexposes the shot.

Swapping to auto ISO in Tv gives the same result that you get in M mode auto ISO except the aperture (in Tv) can only be wide open. So why use an auto-metered mode when you know the light is consistent and you know the setting you have to use? Auto-metering does nothing for you in these situtations, it just makes setup of the camera more difficult.


My personal stuff:http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jngirbach/sets/ (external link)
I use a Canon 5DIII and a Sony A7rIII

  
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DC ­ Fan
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Nov 14, 2014 07:53 |  #8

tjs42 wrote in post #17271176 (external link)
i have the 70d and using the 17-50mm. in my sons gym the other night the pics were almost black. my settings were tv iso 400. shutter 450 and 2.8. the lighting was flouresent and not the best. im sure i had used these same settings in the gym before and had decent pics. when i changed the iso to auto got a lot brighter but were so grainy. dont want to use a flash. i keep changing my settings as im a complete novice so still experimenting but, have not wrote any of my settings down doh. suggestions please

Consider getting a light meter (external link) and learn how to how to use one  (external link)to get exposure settings.

A meter was used to get the setting for this image, at 70 mm, which required ISO 6400 at 1/640 and f/3.2 for a correct exposure.

IMAGE: http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r601/kevinlillard/02212014c/2013a0202b0027_zpsbb9f7ed0.jpg

For a typical high school gym a very high ISO will be needed for an action stopping shutter speed that also will lead to a properly exposed image. Fortunately, noise reduction software (external link) can easily mitigate the resulting noise, and was used with this sample image.



  
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BigAl007
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Nov 14, 2014 09:05 |  #9

Mention has already been made of ETTR. What you must also remember is that it is much better noise wise to increase the ISO in camera (at least as far as non expanded values go) and get a well exposed shot. Using a lower ISO, causing underexposure, which then requires that you boost the exposure in post processing will actually cause more visible noise than the higher ISO would. I have ISO 100 images that have been pushed a stop and a half in post that have more noise than an ISO 3200 shot that was exposed to the right.

Alan


alanevans.co.uk (external link)

  
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Boone13
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Nov 14, 2014 09:14 |  #10

JeffreyG wrote in post #17271221 (external link)
In order to shoot low light action, it helps if you understand the basics of exposure, and how the three settings (aperture, ISO and shutter speed) interact. You can Google that for several fine primers online.

This is where you need to start. All of this advice that you're getting won't help you learn if you don't understand the basic fundamentals of exposure.


Some moments are too amazing to be ruined with words.

  
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PhotosGuy
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Nov 14, 2014 09:16 |  #11

I used a ref's white shirt hereto find an exposure for indoor vollyball.
Take a look at this thread, too: Some Volleyball Tournament Tests **56K Warning!**


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
New Image Size Limits: Image must not exceed 1600 pixels on any side.

  
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