A screw clamp that gives levers a run for their money

For all of us who use lever clamp releases, I want to introduce another idea. I recently got a new Markins Qi20 ballhead with the BV-22 gimbal attachment. Both the clamps on the device have the new Markins Quick screw release, which they claim is 3X faster than their old one. I have to tell you that it's correct.

I can open the clamp in one complete turn of the knob, about the same time than it takes to operate the lever release on either my Markins lever clamp or my RRS lever clamp. For me this is a big deal because I can now use any plate or L bracket, and it also gives me security when I carry the sticks on my shoulder with the camera attached. Perhaps not the safest way but the fastest between shots (I always tether the camera to the tripod anyway). Now I have the release speed and the safety.

Image courtesy MarkinsAmerica

Thanks, I didn't realize that was new. I will definitely try one. I don't use the RSS lever clamp due to its incompatibility with so many non-RSS plates, so I'm all Markins all the time.

So what's the best way to get the old clamp off a Markins ball head.

Samgoit wrote in post #17317094
Thanks, I didn't realize that was new. I will definitely try one. I don't use the RSS lever clamp due to its incompatibility with so many non-RSS plates, so I'm all Markins all the time.

So what's the best way to get the old clamp off a Markins ball head.

If it were I, I would send it to Steve Yoon at Markins in Canada, unless you're good with a small blow torch to heat the red Loctite that's uses to hold the clamp to the ball. I'm not that steady or mechanically inclined!

Yea, I was afraid of that. I've removed quite a few clamps with hex head bolts for mounting hardware, but the Makins is a different animal.

Interesting! Fully open in one turn of the knob. Thanks for posting!

seres wrote in post #17317242
Interesting! Fully open in one turn of the knob. Thanks for posting!

No, not fully open. Open enough to remove the lens plate or L bracket. Then the reverse to re-secure the L bracket at 90 degrees. Fully open takes more turning, but there's no reason to do that.

Now I understand. But still, opening enough with one turn to remove the plate is a big improvement on most screw clamps. Thanks!

With the other two fast screw clamps I tried, I didn't feel they closed as securely as my older slow screw knob clamp. How do you feel about the security of the Markins clamp vs older slower designs?

Also, is the bottom designed to fit on a stem with a A-S or RRS boss? I.e. will it work on my Z1?

sawsedge wrote in post #17317911
With the other two fast screw clamps I tried, I didn't feel they closed as securely as my older slow screw knob clamp. How do you feel about the security of the Markins clamp vs older slower designs?

Also, is the bottom designed to fit on a stem with a A-S or RRS boss? I.e. will it work on my Z1?

I'm not sure what you mean about closing "securely", but this Markins closes tightly without movement, as do all the Markins and RRS clamps of any variety which I've had. I don't know about the bottom design and I would email Steve Yoon at www.markinsamerica.com to ask him.

Samgoit wrote in post #17317136
Yea, I was afraid of that. I've removed quite a few clamps with hex head bolts for mounting hardware, but the Makins is a different animal.

its really not that hard to do, use a propane torch with med.flame and put it to the hex nut for about 30 sec.note hear:only to the hex bolt and not the clamp itself,use your elan key to turn and free up the bolt,you must do this while the locktite is at its release point,then set your new clamp on the head,you can use the thread locker to set your new clamp if you like!i have done it and its easy.

blanex1@netzero.com wrote in post #17318711
its really not that hard to do, use a propane torch with med.flame and put it to the hex nut for about 30 sec.note hear:only to the hex bolt and not the clamp itself,use your elan key to turn and free up the bolt,you must do this while the locktite is at its release point,then set your new clamp on the head,you can use the thread locker to set your new clamp if you like!i have done it and its easy.

Markins doesn't use a hex bolt that applies from the top like most ball heads.

There's a 3/8 inch stud the entire clamp screws on to. I'm sure it's still DIY possible, but at some point you would have to lock down the ball to remove the clamp. Even with the loctite released I'm not sure how much force I'd need or if using whatever amount of force against the tightened ball might be an issue.

tvphotog wrote in post #17318048
I'm not sure what you mean about closing "securely", but this Markins closes tightly without movement, as do all the Markins and RRS clamps of any variety which I've had. I don't know about the bottom design and I would email Steve Yoon at www.markinsamerica.com to ask him.

When I tried the new Kirk clamp, I felt like it would be too easy to loosen the knob accidentally. Like, just brushing it casually could turn the knob.

sawsedge wrote in post #17319241
When I tried the new Kirk clamp, I felt like it would be too easy to loosen the knob accidentally. Like, just brushing it casually could turn the knob.

Not at all with this one. It has a gel feeling when you turn it, you will never accidentally release it.

tvphotog wrote in post #17319251
Not at all with this one. It has a gel feeling when you turn it, you will never accidentally release it.

That's excellent.

It would take more than a steep helix screw with a prevailing torque feel to give the RRS lever release clamps a run for their money, imho.

1. The RRS lever release clamp is more reliably repeatable. Where sometimes my hands can't seem to get a firm enough grip to twist a knob tight enough, the leverage of the lever release clamp always snaps the plates down consistently, regardless of my finger strength, the cold weather, or whatever is ailing me that day.

2. The RRS lever release clamp will not over tighten the clamp to the point where it might take pliers to loosen. Just as the power of leverage snaps it tight, the power of leverage releases the plate. With a knob, if I am strong in the morning when I could tighten a knob tightly, but weak in the afternoon when I somehow can't seem to break what I tightened loose, I'm kind of "screwed". With a lever, I can just pry the clamp open.

3. With the RRS lever release clamp, one can always SEE the tightness of the clamp. One cannot see if a screw clamp is tight or not.

All that being said, it is certainly possible to get a screw clamp to hold tighter than a lever release clamp, but the way RRS sets up their belville spring pack in their lever release clamps, I have never felt any thing but a tight, secure, solid connection, even under the lens foots of big glass.

I'm not sponsored by RRS, and have nothing to gain by talking about their product... I'm just addressing the "levers a run for their money" post title, and listing 3 reasons why I think this attractive looking Markins clamp has further to run.

For example, how useful is the bubble level nested in the valley of the Markins if you can't even see it with a lens or camera mounted? The bubble level on the RRS lever release clamp is OUTSIDE the clamp zone, on the shoulder of the clamp, so it can be seen with the gear mounted.

There's a bit more distance to run there before catching up.