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FORUMS General Gear Talk Tripods, Monopods & Other Camera Support 
Thread started 06 Dec 2014 (Saturday) 19:38
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A screw clamp that gives levers a run for their money

 
sawsedge
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Dec 07, 2014 22:41 |  #16

Charles Brown wrote in post #17319507 (external link)
It would take more than a steep helix screw with a prevailing torque feel to give the RRS lever release clamps a run for their money, imho.

1. The RRS lever release clamp is more reliably repeatable. Where sometimes my hands can't seem to get a firm enough grip to twist a knob tight enough, the leverage of the lever release clamp always snaps the plates down consistently, regardless of my finger strength, the cold weather, or whatever is ailing me that day.

2. The RRS lever release clamp will not over tighten the clamp to the point where it might take pliers to loosen. Just as the power of leverage snaps it tight, the power of leverage releases the plate. With a knob, if I am strong in the morning when I could tighten a knob tightly, but weak in the afternoon when I somehow can't seem to break what I tightened loose, I'm kind of "screwed". With a lever, I can just pry the clamp open.

3. With the RRS lever release clamp, one can always SEE the tightness of the clamp. One cannot see if a screw clamp is tight or not.

All that being said, it is certainly possible to get a screw clamp to hold tighter than a lever release clamp, but the way RRS sets up their belville spring pack in their lever release clamps, I have never felt any thing but a tight, secure, solid connection, even under the lens foots of big glass.

I'm not sponsored by RRS, and have nothing to gain by talking about their product... I'm just addressing the "levers a run for their money" post title, and listing 3 reasons why I think this attractive looking Markins clamp has further to run.

For example, how useful is the bubble level nested in the valley of the Markins if you can't even see it with a lens or camera mounted? The bubble level on the RRS lever release clamp is OUTSIDE the clamp zone, on the shoulder of the clamp, so it can be seen with the gear mounted.

There's a bit more distance to run there before catching up.


I happen to have the RRS lever clamp (LR II) on my Z1, and I love it. It holds my plates tightly; I cannot make them budge, much less push them out (I tested each plate to make sure). It's solid and well-made.

However, regarding #2, I never experienced that in 11 years with my old Kirk screw knob. I made sure it was tight. I just don't see it being an issue, at least not with a well-made piece. If anyone has, I'd be curious to know which brands/models.

#3 is a good point.


- John

  
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tvphotog
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Post edited over 8 years ago by tvphotog. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 08, 2014 11:21 |  #17

Charles Brown wrote in post #17319507 (external link)
It would take more than a steep helix screw with a prevailing torque feel to give the RRS lever release clamps a run for their money, imho.

1. The RRS lever release clamp is more reliably repeatable. Where sometimes my hands can't seem to get a firm enough grip to twist a knob tight enough, the leverage of the lever release clamp always snaps the plates down consistently, regardless of my finger strength, the cold weather, or whatever is ailing me that day.
2. The RRS lever release clamp will not over tighten the clamp to the point where it might take pliers to loosen. Just as the power of leverage snaps it tight, the power of leverage releases the plate. With a knob, if I am strong in the morning when I could tighten a knob tightly, but weak in the afternoon when I somehow can't seem to break what I tightened loose, I'm kind of "screwed". With a lever, I can just pry the clamp open.
3. With the RRS lever release clamp, one can always SEE the tightness of the clamp. One cannot see if a screw clamp is tight or not.

For example, how useful is the bubble level nested in the valley of the Markins if you can't even see it with a lens or camera mounted? The bubble level on the RRS lever release clamp is OUTSIDE the clamp zone, on the shoulder of the clamp, so it can be seen with the gear mounted.

There's a bit more distance to run there before catching up.

It's nice to see your devotion to a product. However,

1. In cold weather, a thick glove may make it difficult to flip the edge of a lever, especially the Markins lever clamp. The screw knob is big and rubber-coated and is easy to feel and turn with gloves on.

2. I don't understand the waxing and waning of your strength, especially with a tiny screw clamp. I only know that in my use of the screw clamp, when it's tight, it's tight, very easy to tell. How could you ever tighten it to the point of needing pliers to open it?!

3. I am puzzled by what you mean. I can see and feel if the screw clamp is tight.

And the most important issue for me is safety against unintended release. When I was in the rain forest of Costa Rica, I was carrying my monopod with an RRS lever clamp and camera on my shoulder, and a low-hanging vine caught the edge of the lever and opened it to the mid position as I was taking the monopod off my shoulder to shoot. I caught the camera before it completely released. That's not going to happen again with this screw clamp.

And it works with any Arca-Swiss plate without adjustment of the lever. My feeling is that this new Markins clamp out-distances any lever clamp, but that's just MHO. You pay your money and take your choice.

P.S. I'm still not sure that the above member's post was not tongue-in-cheek, but if so, it got my goat!


Jay
Ireland in Word and Image (external link) Jay Ben Images (external link)5D IV | 5DS/R | Sony RX100 V | 24-105L | 100-400 IIL | 16-35 f/2.8 IIL | 24 T/S f /3.5L II | 17 T/S f/4L | 50mm f/1.2L | 35mm f/1.4L | 70-200 f/2.8L II | 580 EX II | 600 EX-RT | Feisol 3441T/Markins Q3T lever QR | Gitzo 3542L Markins Qi20 BV-22 | Gitzo 5561T RRS MH-02

  
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jeetsukumaran
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Post edited over 8 years ago by jeetsukumaran.
     
Dec 08, 2014 13:43 |  #18

Charles Brown wrote in post #17319507 (external link)
With a knob, if I am strong in the morning when I could tighten a knob tightly, but weak in the afternoon when I somehow can't seem to break what I tightened loose ...

I do not know if this is tongue-in-cheek or not, but, either way you get points for both novelty and hilarity. Because, I, at least, have not heard this one yet in the otherwise done-to-death lever-vs-knob debate, and it really is funny.


Gallery: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jeetsukumaran/ (external link) Website: http://jeetworks.org/ (external link) Canon 6D, Zeiss Distagon T* 2.8/21, EF 24-70 f/2.8L II USM, EF 40mm f/2.8 STM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM, EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM II.

  
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Charles ­ Brown
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Dec 08, 2014 14:51 |  #19

I'm glad you found mirth... even at my expense! :lol:

I didn't understand the daily waxing and waning of strength either, until I found myself sliding down the wrong side of 50. Then I was like, ahhh, that's what those old goats were talking about when I was younger.

Speaking of goat, I wasn't trying to get yours. I've got my own to attend to!




  
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tvphotog
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Dec 08, 2014 15:34 |  #20

Charles Brown wrote in post #17320955 (external link)
I'm glad you found mirth... even at my expense! :lol:

I didn't understand the daily waxing and waning of strength either, until I found myself sliding down the wrong side of 50. Then I was like, ahhh, that's what those old goats were talking about when I was younger.

Speaking of goat, I wasn't trying to get yours. I've got my own to attend to!

No, listen. It's the right side to slide down. It took the first fifty years to struggle to the top.


Jay
Ireland in Word and Image (external link) Jay Ben Images (external link)5D IV | 5DS/R | Sony RX100 V | 24-105L | 100-400 IIL | 16-35 f/2.8 IIL | 24 T/S f /3.5L II | 17 T/S f/4L | 50mm f/1.2L | 35mm f/1.4L | 70-200 f/2.8L II | 580 EX II | 600 EX-RT | Feisol 3441T/Markins Q3T lever QR | Gitzo 3542L Markins Qi20 BV-22 | Gitzo 5561T RRS MH-02

  
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jeetsukumaran
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Dec 08, 2014 20:12 |  #21

Charles Brown wrote in post #17320955 (external link)
I'm glad you found mirth... even at my expense! :lol:

I didn't understand the daily waxing and waning of strength either, until I found myself sliding down the wrong side of 50. Then I was like, ahhh, that's what those old goats were talking about when I was younger.

Speaking of goat, I wasn't trying to get yours. I've got my own to attend to!

I am not so far behind you on that hill.


Gallery: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jeetsukumaran/ (external link) Website: http://jeetworks.org/ (external link) Canon 6D, Zeiss Distagon T* 2.8/21, EF 24-70 f/2.8L II USM, EF 40mm f/2.8 STM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM, EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM II.

  
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Nethawked
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Dec 09, 2014 16:32 |  #22

I'm just rolling down the same side of the hill AND need a clamp for a monopod. How convenient! Now to put in an order before 7PM bedtime. :-D




  
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tvphotog
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Dec 09, 2014 17:56 |  #23

Nethawked wrote in post #17323324 (external link)
I'm just rolling down the same side of the hill AND need a clamp for a monopod. How convenient! Now to put in an order before 7PM bedtime. :-D

Are you attaching it directly to the monopod or do you have a monopod head?


Jay
Ireland in Word and Image (external link) Jay Ben Images (external link)5D IV | 5DS/R | Sony RX100 V | 24-105L | 100-400 IIL | 16-35 f/2.8 IIL | 24 T/S f /3.5L II | 17 T/S f/4L | 50mm f/1.2L | 35mm f/1.4L | 70-200 f/2.8L II | 580 EX II | 600 EX-RT | Feisol 3441T/Markins Q3T lever QR | Gitzo 3542L Markins Qi20 BV-22 | Gitzo 5561T RRS MH-02

  
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peter_n
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Dec 10, 2014 08:02 |  #24

Samgoit wrote in post #17317094 (external link)
I don't use the RSS lever clamp due to its incompatibility with so many non-RSS plates, so I'm all Markins all the time.

About two years ago RRS updated their 60mm lever clamps so that they self-adjust to just about any plate out there. They work well.

sawsedge wrote in post #17317911 (external link)
With the other two fast screw clamps I tried, I didn't feel they closed as securely as my older slow screw knob clamp.

I bought an Acratech GP in January with a fast screw clamp and had exactly the same experience, returned the clamp and got their lever clamp which is very good. The Acratech clamp has a coarse thread which I suppose is what makes it "fast" but I did not like the feel of it at all.

sawsedge wrote in post #17317911 (external link)
Also, is the bottom designed to fit on a stem with a A-S or RRS boss? I.e. will it work on my Z1?

No. I had to get my Markins QR-60 custom machined to fit on my Z1. I eventually replaced it with the self-adjusting RRS lever clamp.

I believe that the Markins plates and clamps are dimensionally slightly different from those made by American companies like Kirk, Wimberley, Acratech and RRS. I'm not quite sure where the difference is, they may be a wee bit thinner and the dovetail angle might be slightly different. But you can see it with some plates in their clamps, and I don't have heavy equipment but that did make me a tad nervous. I've used a lot of Markins clamps and really love the way they work, as I said I had one machined to go on my Z1 at some expense but I don't use them any more.


~Peter

  
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Charles ­ Brown
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Dec 10, 2014 11:22 |  #25

On the difference in dovetail plate designs, here is what one manufacturer had to say:

Arca-Swiss clamp and plate cross-compatibility is a well-known issue among camera manufacturers. There are dozens of manufacturers in the marketplace and 2 distinctly different variations on the style.

The original Arca-Swiss plate and clamps (as on the Arca-Swiss B1 ballhead) is followed very closely by most Chinese and Pacific Rim manufacturers such as Markins, Giotto, Vanguard, Sunwayfoto, etc. These generally feature a thinner plate (with a shallow V-groove with a 45 degree included angle, so the plate can only be mounted from the bottom into a clamp).

North American manufacturers (Jobu Design, Kirk Enterprises, Really Right Stuff, Acra-Tech) have moved away from the original design and approach a different 'standard'. Plates appear to be commonly sourced from 1.5" wide by 3/8" aluminum stock (give or take) and (usually) have a full 90 degree V-groove (dovetail) on the edges of the plates. This allows the clamps to be installed on the bottom or the top of the plate.

Our Jobu Design clamps follow the North American version with an unofficial 'matching' of the Really Right Stuff lever-action clamps, which we have confirmed with their engineers. We repeatedly test our plates against customer samples and produce our plates with go/no-go gauges to ensure we have consistent output in our machining. However, we absolutely DO NOT guarantee fit with ANY other manufacturer's plates or clamps. We simply cannot guarantee it, neither will they guarantee our system will fit theirs. We all operate independently.

Our Jobu Design clamps are designed to operate in a much wider tolerance band than most clamps with a very generous clamping range. We only use a clamping knob (no levers) on our gimbals since it is well known that customers DO mix plates and clamps. With an average cost of $5000-20000USD of equipment mounted on our gimbals, we cannot put any faith in cross-matching plates. Use of lever-clamps is highly UN-recommended in our gimbals.

So what is a customer to do? Stick with one manufacturer, or test out your plates in a safe environment to make sure they clamp safely with adequate overlap of the dovetail. If they don't fit, don't use it.

We'd like to see a new North American Camera Clamp System (NACCS...?) offered as a true standard, with published sizes and tolerances. Anything else is certainly misleading to the consumer.

-- The Jobu Design Team--




  
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A screw clamp that gives levers a run for their money
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