Strobe for Action Sports

Not if you want recycle times to keep up with rapid fire.

I dont think anyone here understands what I need. HSS and Lots of pops just dont happen I know that. I need a light that does HSS and can do lots of pops when the power is down.

RussellJ wrote in post #17325073
I dont think anyone here understands what I need. HSS and Lots of pops just dont happen I know that. I need a light that does HSS and can do lots of pops when the power is down.

I don't think you understand what HSS is.

High Speed Sync (HSS) is a Canon technique for syncing flash above X-sync. HSS is called Auto-FP in the Nikon system. This is a speedlight-ONLY technique that pulses light above X-sync. This appears to the camera as a continuous light at faster shutter speeds.

Hypersync:

A normal, non-HSS flash is more efficient at delivering light to a subject than an HSS (pulsed) flash. As a result, flashes may be positioned farther from a subject.

HyperSync uses special camera communication to trigger a normal flash before the first curtain opens. It can also eliminate the delay introduced by a typical radio trigger. The timing can be optimized for some flashes based on the user’s wishes.

So if you want a high powered studio stobe (NO HSS) to do HyperSync, you need to understand flash duration. You can't just buy any flash and wireless transmitter and expect to be able to use HyperSync. It's far more complicated. It has to do with the camera body used as well as the flash. You say you want to be able to shoot at 8 FPS. So you would need to turn the flash power WAY down so that it can recycle fast enough. The issue with that is that by the time you turn a strobe (such as the AB1600) down low enough so that A) the strobe recycles fast enough for 8 FPS (not even sure if it can) and b) the flash duration is slow enough that it meshes well with Hypersync.... You're at the equivilant of 20 watt seconds, which isn't enough light to kill the sun.

In order to help you, we need to know WHY you want/need HSS or HyperSync. If it's to freeze your quickly moving subject, then you need to understand flash duration because the flash is what is freezing the subject, not the shutter speed. The issue with that though, is $$$. You only have $500 to spend but you are shopping for a Ferrari.

Check this out: http://blog.chasejarvi​s.com …-strobed-photo-sequences/

I understand HSS and Hypersync, Im just bad at writing out what Im talking about. I shoot motocross and other action sports during the daylight hours. I need a flash that can add fill light to those shots while stoping the motion. The reason I say HSS is to cut down on the light but make the flash stand out more. Hypersync works as well. Right now I have a light. Its the Flashpoint Rovelight 600 from adaroma. It has HSS but it does not pulse like a speedlight so there is no loss of power at 1/1. This is great but the two things I dont like is the flashpoint mount ( Need it be able to be like a bownes mount to get a Long Throw Reflector to get the light more out there.) and the weight (its a bit big to have someone holding it to follow the riders at the kind of speed for a few hours)

My Rovelight also when the HSS mode is turned off and power is at 1/16th can keep up my 1D Mark IV for about 2-3 secs or a bit longer. Perfect for what I do.

Im wondering if there is a light out there that does that as well but has the mount I need and the a bit lighter. Thats it really. If not I will buy this light in Bownes mount and a Long Throw reflector and see what I can do then.

If it doesnt pulse, it ain't HSS.

Well I did a test to see how much power was lost during HSS 1/1 and Normal 1/1 at 300th of a second and I didnt see any. Then again as you can tell Im new to lighting.

From the FlashHavoc write up:

http://flashhavoc.com …-rovelight-rl-600-review/

High Speed Sync


If a powerful fully cordless flash wasn’t enough, the RoveLights appear to have something pretty unusual and special with the new HSS (High Speed Sync) feature.

The RoveLights as stated by Jinbie are Dual Mode flashes. And this appears to be switching from an IGBT flash to a regular voltage controlled flash in the HSS mode, which increased the flash durations at all power levels down to 1/16.

A long flash duration simply acts like a constant light source, at least for the short time the camera shutter is open. This in turn allows any shutter speed up to 1/8000th of a second to be used, just like using available light.

It would appear that the non-pulsing HSS is currently unique to the Flashpoint Rovelight.

So here is a shot I did this past weekend and the settings I used. I want this but the light to reach out so mabye all I need is a Long Throw?? A set of grids??

Then its hypersync and not HSS.

RussellJ wrote in post #17325294
So here is a shot I did this past weekend and the settings I used. I want this but the light to reach out so mabye all I need is a Long Throw?? A set of grids??

Why not ISO 100 AND 1/1000?

Was just running around trying to get shots of guys riding so 1/2000th was also used when no light was being used.

Einstein with a long throw reflector.....

kickmaster wrote in post #17326300
Einstein with a long throw reflector.....

Einstein will not do HyperSync at lower power.

Love the Einstein, but they are the worst option for hypersync.

Here's a suggestion. Fuji X100S shoots at 6 FPS and has a leaf shutter which will allow you to shoot at shutter speeds up to 1/4000. It also has a built in ND. The downside is it has a fixed 35mm FF equiv. lens.