EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Review WOW!

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #18118902
Careful, we wouldn't want this thread topic to get flammable!


... or inflammable ?

Famous, or infamous?!

An exuberant wild Rainbow Lorikeet taking a morning dip at our back garden bird bath. Wild as in free living in nature rather than as in crazy.

Cheers

Dennis

They're all crazy. Great shot by the way

nardes wrote in post #18119610
An exuberant wild Rainbow Lorikeet taking a morning dip at our back garden bird bath. Wild as in free living in nature rather than as in crazy.

Cheers

Dennis

Hosted photo: posted by nardes in
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forum: Canon Lenses

Now THAT is truly an explosion of color!

Awesome shot, thanks for sharing.

Amazing photos in this thread of our Australian birds, and all so sharp en good colors, I can give them all a "like".

Landscapes with the telephoto lol ..what will they think of next ....hehe

John_T wrote in post #18117688
I find that distortion does not have to be due to heat, it can also be due to temp differences between you and the subject, over water, hills and valleys, over houses, over towns, etc.

This was on a cool day, temp diff between land and water.

Hosted photo: posted by John_T in
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forum: Canon Lenses

I will second this ......I had same issue with my new 5DSR and thought it may be the either a camera or lens AF problem however after a lenghty discussion with Canons CPS senior technician it was pointed out to me that atmospherics, like which were evident in the earlier posted image, certainly could be affecting the lens/cameras AF. And According to Canon they also say it doesnt need to be super hot for atmospherics to affect the AF. And the affect can range from a wide miss of the AF where its really noticeable right down to a small back or front focus miss that looks more like a soft image rather than totally OOF. The fact that atmospheric shimmer is evident in the image posted is enough evidence for me to confidently point to atmospheric effect on AF as the most likely culprit.

Ive included below a couple of images showing similar issues....

1st image is a 100% crop of image shot on a mild day. And second image is another shot taken same day but taken in a dfferent part of the wetland away from the larger body of water I shot first image subject over . Can still see very small amount atmospheric shimmer in background if you pixel peep but this time AF not affected and subject properly in focus even though still some water around . But the difference is here Im not shooting across the water as I did in image one . BTW Bird in image is an Australian Brolga

The 100-400 II does sports. I was happy with the results but had to quit using it at halftime when the lighting was starting to get bad. Too bad we don't have any day games on the schedule. In a month, I won't have enough light to use it at all. Still waiting for someone to give me a 400mm F/2.8.

Photo from McNeese72's gallery.

Photo from McNeese72's gallery.

Photo from McNeese72's gallery.

Photo from McNeese72's gallery.

Photo from McNeese72's gallery.

Ya me too,.... Does anyone have any spare luck ??

Using this more and more as my carry around lense. Keep a monopod attached.

IMAGE LINK: https://ybconway.smugm​ug.com/Prague/i-jqx25vs&lb=1&s=A

Prague

IMAGE LINK: https://ybconway.smugm​ug.com/Prague/i-JrxN8Mj&lb=1&s=A

Prague

Douglas Conway wrote in post #18120101
Using this more and more as my carry around lense. Keep a monopod attached.

IMAGE LINK: https://ybconway.smugm​ug.com/Prague/i-JrxN8Mj&lb=1&s=A
Prague by Douglas Conway on Smugmug

while I have done similar type pictures (blowing out the red channel for artistic effect), it would be interesting to know if this picture was saveable by pulling back the red channel exposure in LR

This is pretty much out of the camera. What I did have was a polarizing filter on.

Douglas Conway wrote in post #18120170
This is pretty much out of the camera. What I did have was a polarizing filter on.

the red channel is almost always the first to blow out - and when you have a lot of red flowers, with green in the background, you often have to underexpose by almost a stop if you want to save the all the reds - always best in the future, when facing a similar scene, to look at the RGB histogram and check the Red Channel specifically