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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 17 Dec 2014 (Wednesday) 13:10
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OneDeep
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Dec 17, 2014 13:10 |  #1

I need a better way to figure out how can I expose with flash correctly. I think I have my settings right in camera general ISO 100, SS 200 and F 4.0-6 in studio but everytime I load into LR I end up cranking up the exposure slider at least 1 stop over. Do I need a flash meter? I think I asked this before last year and the response I got was just practice, well a year later I'm still not getting perfect exposure SOOC.


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Alveric
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Dec 17, 2014 13:15 |  #2
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Lightmeter.


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Chet
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Dec 17, 2014 13:23 |  #3

Shoot tethered right into LR, or get a light meter.




  
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Dec 17, 2014 13:25 as a reply to  @ Chet's post |  #4

figure out how to display it and then learn to read your histogram.


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gonzogolf
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Dec 17, 2014 13:33 |  #5

Lightmeter is the easy answer. I'm also assuming manual flash in your examples. Until you get a lightmeter use the white towel method. Shoot a test shot with a white bath towel in the shot. Expose right up to the point where the blinkies or histogram show overexposure. You can also zoom in to see if you still have detail in the texture of the towel. The reason for a towel over another white subject is the texture.




  
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OneDeep
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Post edited over 8 years ago by OneDeep.
     
Dec 17, 2014 14:40 |  #6

Maybe I need to look at the histogram more but if I use a black seamless the histogram will look under exposure. Any recommendations on a light meter?

Edit: strobe I use is alien bees


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seres
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Dec 17, 2014 14:42 |  #7

With a light meter you can check and adjust the lighting at specific locations. I always use a light meter.


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Dec 17, 2014 14:44 |  #8

you can't see that it's underexposed before you get it into Lightroom? It looks like it's exposed correctly on the preview screen on the camera?


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nathancarter
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Dec 17, 2014 14:50 |  #9

OneDeep wrote in post #17338026 (external link)
I need a better way to figure out how can I expose with flash correctly. I think I have my settings right in camera general ISO 100, SS 200 and F 4.0-6 in studio but everytime I load into LR I end up cranking up the exposure slider at least 1 stop over. Do I need a flash meter? I think I asked this before last year and the response I got was just practice, well a year later I'm still not getting perfect exposure SOOC.

What are you using to determine your flash power? Guesswork?

Note: The preview on the camera LCD lies. Especially in a dimly lit room, it's a liar, a dirty liar. Use the histogram, use the blinkies, and/or use a lightmeter.


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Dec 17, 2014 14:55 |  #10

OneDeep wrote in post #17338193 (external link)
Maybe I need to look at the histogram more but if I use a black seamless the histogram will look under exposure. Any recommendations on a light meter?

Edit: strobe I use is alien bees

Sekonic L358 or 308. You need to reread my post above and get a better understanding of ehat a histogram does.




  
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bobbyz
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Dec 18, 2014 20:04 |  #11

OneDeep wrote in post #17338193 (external link)
Maybe I need to look at the histogram more but if I use a black seamless the histogram will look under exposure. Any recommendations on a light meter?

Edit: strobe I use is alien bees

Zoom in or shoot from close so your subject is filling most if the frame. Whether in focus or not doesn't matter. Now look at the histogram.

In the end having light meter is so much better.


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Dec 18, 2014 20:14 |  #12

This is not the best method. A flash meter is the way to go.

http://super.nova.org/​DPR/Histogram/ (external link)

Basically the same thing but the white is wedding dress

http://neilvn.com …am-to-determine-exposure/ (external link)

I went to a flash workshop and they basically held up a white sheet of paper in front of the model and we just adjusted the flash power so the histogram was just touching the right wall.


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Dec 18, 2014 20:30 |  #13

The histogram is your friend young grasshopper. Learn to interpret it in the setting of your shot. Think about it, if shooting portraits on black seamless it is very likely something should be in the middle and on the right side of the display (i.e. your subject)...just maybe not that much. The histogram is the most powerful tool to ensure proper exposure. Secondly, remember, when shooting with flash/strobe, you are dealing with 2 different exposures…ambient and flash. This is where your light meter will be helpful in dialing in proper flash settings….FAST! Finally, the only thing I use the LCD for is to check for accurate focus…particularly when shooting with fast squirrely primes.


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Post edited over 8 years ago by Wilt. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 18, 2014 20:32 |  #14

digital paradise wrote in post #17340558 (external link)
I went to a flash workshop and they basically held up a white sheet of paper in front of the model and we just adjusted the flash power so the histogram was just touching the right wall.

One can argue the virtually no wedding dress is 99% reflective, but more likely only 90-92% reflective...like printer/copy paper with optical brightners. And that 99%-100% brightness only comes about by specular reflections of the light source seen in mirrors or shiney chrome objects! So unless there is a mirror, NOTHING should 'hug the right wall' or even touch it.

OneDeep wrote in post #17338026 (external link)
Do I need a flash meter? I think I asked this before last year and the response I got was just practice, well a year later I'm still not getting perfect exposure SOOC.

The BS/bad advice that was fed to OneDeep about 'just practice' and flash exposure will come with sufficient practice...well, either chimp the histogram or use a flashmeter, I know which one is less aggravating to a waiting portrait client and less wasteful of my own time, too!


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Dec 18, 2014 20:43 |  #15

You are correct. I used the word touch and I should not have. There should be a space as indicated by the examples in the link.


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Underexposed while using strobe.
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