JeffreyG wrote in post #17344696
Yes, one cool thing is that for any focal length, the DOF will be the same for the subject framing. So if you shoot a person at 5 feet with a 24mm lens, or 10 feet with a 50mm lens, or 20 feet with a 100mm lens, the DOF is the same in every case if you have the same aperture.
So you can think of DOF simply in terms of subject framing and aperture. So I learned that I love f/1.4 for whole body framing for example, but I want f/11 for a tight headshot. And it doesn't matter what focal length I'm using.
This tip was gold in and of itself! I had always been a foot zoomer with primes, which is why I always sort of scoffed at mid zooms, but I had never considered foot zooming for depth of field control as well. My main priority when I'm not doing landscapes is subject isolation, so I've just avoided 2.8 or slower mid zooms altogether. I suppose my main goal in this post was to see if I can do more with less. My hesitation with going 2.8 was the subject isolation concern, but now it seems I can actually get around this somewhat by working with subject distance.
I considered buying the 24-105L but that would just make my "collection" far too large for my liking, and would extend my budget cap too much for a hobby. I'm a hobbyist first and foremost, so cost-per-use is a metric I consider a lot. Of course I'd love to have it all but that cost-per-use ratio gets slimmer with the number of lenses I have/money I spend.
Now I'm thinking I can replace the 24L and 50L with the 24-70 2.8 and just get in closer at the 24 end to replicate DOF at 1.4, while being more careful with distortion. This would make my 16-35 F4 a bit redundant since I'd then only use it at 16mm mostly, so I could do a 14L. I rarely use the 70-300L too, so I could get rid of that to fund a 14L, and maybe add a 1.4x TC for my 135L for a bit of extra reach when I need it.
This would make a 14L, 24-70L, 135L / 200 via 1.4x kit. I like this idea...
Thanks a lot, this changes everything!