Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Guest
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Lenses 
Thread started 21 Dec 2014 (Sunday) 13:03
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

Switchers to 2.8 zooms: Did you miss your primes?

 
jmai86
Member
153 posts
Likes: 6
Joined Aug 2014
Post edited over 8 years ago by jmai86.
     
Dec 21, 2014 13:03 |  #1

In an possible effort to gain some portability, and lose some weight, I'm considering switching to a 24-70 2.8II from my 24L and 50L primes. I'd keep the 135L if I made the switch.

For those that have done this, did you ever miss the 1.4 primes? I know in some situations I'll have to deal with more noise indoors at 2.8 vs 1.4. But I'm wondering if this is a tradeoff I can live with.

I love my primes by the way. Decisions...

Shot at 1.2 or 1.4 (I forgot).

IMAGE: http://www.thingsbyjohn.com/One-Year/i-XtTfsXD/0/XL/IMG_2651-XL.jpg



  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Wilt
Reader's Digest Condensed version of War and Peace [POTN Vol 1]
Avatar
46,463 posts
Gallery: 1 photo
Likes: 4552
Joined Aug 2005
Location: Belmont, CA
     
Dec 21, 2014 13:09 |  #2

  • When you do not need the instantaneous ability to change FL, and you want to be somewhat inconspicuous during your shoot (which is defeated by a big zoom lens)
  • When you need faster than f/2.8 to keep your shutter speed higher



...you need to use a prime, not zoom.

I grew up on primes, as zooms used to be too optically compromised in performance. Zooms progressively got better, I progressively got lazier. I still own predominantly primes for my film cameras, but I have zooms when I need the FL flexibility instantaneously and am not reliant on absolute lens speed.

You need to give me OK to edit your image and repost! Keep POTN alive and well with member support https://photography-on-the.net/forum/donate.p​hp
Canon dSLR system, Olympus OM 35mm system, Bronica ETRSi 645 system, Horseman LS 4x5 system, Metz flashes, Dynalite studio lighting, and too many accessories to mention

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
JeffreyG
"my bits and pieces are all hard"
Avatar
15,540 posts
Gallery: 42 photos
Likes: 620
Joined Jan 2007
Location: Detroit, MI
Post edited over 8 years ago by JeffreyG.
     
Dec 21, 2014 13:48 |  #3

I use some primes, some zooms. Usually I use and prefer the zooms most of the time and tend to use my primes for when I specifically want a very fast aperture.

After getting a dSLR some 8 years ago, I wound up picking up a couple fast primes and found them useful. I also fell into a few traps like thinking that super shallow DOF was great all the time, and not learning how to get a blurred background while maintaining adequate DOF. I look at your sample shot and I see the kind of mistake I used to make a lot and still make sometimes. When you have the desire to take a tightly framed shot like that with a fast lens, you need to remember to stop down a bit or else your subject will look like they are melting into the background instead of standing out from it. Today I tend (when I remember) to only use the very fast apertures on loosely framed subjects where they pop the subject out from the background. In these kinds of shots, even an f/2.8 zoom can be a bit slow.

That's especially true on the wide end. Nothing pulls out a loosely framed subject like a lens like the 24/1.4. Kind of like this example I guess.

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2014/12/3/LQ_704191.jpg
Image hosted by forum (704191) © JeffreyG [SHARE LINK]
THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff.

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2014/12/3/LQ_704192.jpg
Image hosted by forum (704192) © JeffreyG [SHARE LINK]
THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff.

My personal stuff:http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jngirbach/sets/ (external link)
I use a Canon 5DIII and a Sony A7rIII

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
jmai86
THREAD ­ STARTER
Member
153 posts
Likes: 6
Joined Aug 2014
     
Dec 21, 2014 14:18 as a reply to  @ JeffreyG's post |  #4

Thanks for the insights guys.

Jeffrey, you're right, I do suffer from a mild case of bokeh addiction, that I am slowly trying to train myself out of. I used to shoot wide open all the time, and only recently actually started stopping down to get SOME kind of resemblance of things in the background, for photo context. For that particular shot I posted, I could've done f2 or 2.8 to get the other eye in focus and get some of the mantle/fireplace in the background more recognizable as objects and not just blobs.

This is partially my reasoning/desire to switch to a 2.8 zoom as I'd be forced to rethink how I shoot. I've always shot primes for the past decade!

Excellent point about going wide open only on loosely framed shots as well. I hadn't though of it like that, and may be why I love the 24L wide open so much, as I do get that separation in a wider shot.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
JeffreyG
"my bits and pieces are all hard"
Avatar
15,540 posts
Gallery: 42 photos
Likes: 620
Joined Jan 2007
Location: Detroit, MI
     
Dec 21, 2014 14:28 |  #5

jmai86 wrote in post #17344689 (external link)
Excellent point about going wide open only on loosely framed shots as well. I hadn't though of it like that, and may be why I love the 24L wide open so much, as I do get that separation in a wider shot.

Yes, one cool thing is that for any focal length, the DOF will be the same for the subject framing. So if you shoot a person at 5 feet with a 24mm lens, or 10 feet with a 50mm lens, or 20 feet with a 100mm lens, the DOF is the same in every case if you have the same aperture.

So you can think of DOF simply in terms of subject framing and aperture. So I learned that I love f/1.4 for whole body framing for example, but I want f/11 for a tight headshot. And it doesn't matter what focal length I'm using.

Back to your original topic, once I learned this I found that I use super fast apertures less now than I used to, but I still use them. So I don't know what advice to give overall. In that wide-short tele range myself I use the somewhat slow 24-105L most of the time, and I use fast primes in the same range. It's a budget stretch, but 24-105s sell kind of cheap on the used market, maybe you could save up and add one to your existing kit.


My personal stuff:http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jngirbach/sets/ (external link)
I use a Canon 5DIII and a Sony A7rIII

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
jmai86
THREAD ­ STARTER
Member
153 posts
Likes: 6
Joined Aug 2014
Post edited over 8 years ago by jmai86. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 21, 2014 14:55 |  #6

JeffreyG wrote in post #17344696 (external link)
Yes, one cool thing is that for any focal length, the DOF will be the same for the subject framing. So if you shoot a person at 5 feet with a 24mm lens, or 10 feet with a 50mm lens, or 20 feet with a 100mm lens, the DOF is the same in every case if you have the same aperture.

So you can think of DOF simply in terms of subject framing and aperture. So I learned that I love f/1.4 for whole body framing for example, but I want f/11 for a tight headshot. And it doesn't matter what focal length I'm using.

This tip was gold in and of itself! I had always been a foot zoomer with primes, which is why I always sort of scoffed at mid zooms, but I had never considered foot zooming for depth of field control as well. My main priority when I'm not doing landscapes is subject isolation, so I've just avoided 2.8 or slower mid zooms altogether. I suppose my main goal in this post was to see if I can do more with less. My hesitation with going 2.8 was the subject isolation concern, but now it seems I can actually get around this somewhat by working with subject distance.

I considered buying the 24-105L but that would just make my "collection" far too large for my liking, and would extend my budget cap too much for a hobby. I'm a hobbyist first and foremost, so cost-per-use is a metric I consider a lot. Of course I'd love to have it all but that cost-per-use ratio gets slimmer with the number of lenses I have/money I spend.

Now I'm thinking I can replace the 24L and 50L with the 24-70 2.8 and just get in closer at the 24 end to replicate DOF at 1.4, while being more careful with distortion. This would make my 16-35 F4 a bit redundant since I'd then only use it at 16mm mostly, so I could do a 14L. I rarely use the 70-300L too, so I could get rid of that to fund a 14L, and maybe add a 1.4x TC for my 135L for a bit of extra reach when I need it.

This would make a 14L, 24-70L, 135L / 200 via 1.4x kit. I like this idea...

Thanks a lot, this changes everything!




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Tommydigi
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
5,917 posts
Gallery: 66 photos
Likes: 845
Joined May 2010
Location: Chicago
Post edited over 8 years ago by Tommydigi.
     
Dec 21, 2014 16:46 |  #7

I've considered the same thing but i really like the primes too much to sell them off. i had the original 24-70 and i liked it a lot. I cannot justify all 3.


Website (external link) | Flickr (external link) | Instagram (external link)
Fuji X100F • Canon EOS R6 Mark 2 • G7XII • RF 16 2.8 • RF 14-35 F4 L • RF 35 1.8 • RF 800 F11 • EF 24LII L • EF 50 L • EF 100 L • EF 135 L • EF 100-400 L II • 600EX II RT • 270 EX II

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
umphotography
grabbing their Johnson
Avatar
12,321 posts
Gallery: 21 photos
Likes: 4203
Joined Oct 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idaho
     
Dec 21, 2014 17:34 |  #8

Waiting on the Sigma 24-70 F/2.0

then i wont miss my primes


Mike
www.umphotography.com (external link)
GEAR LIST
Facebook (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

1,497 views & 1 like for this thread, 5 members have posted to it.
Switchers to 2.8 zooms: Did you miss your primes?
FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Lenses 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Forums   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset   •  Home

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.58forum software
version 2.58 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is semonsters
1022 guests, 108 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15,144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.