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Thread started 23 Feb 2006 (Thursday) 20:24
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Sigma 30mm f1.4 EX DC HSM

 
Gary ­ W. ­ Graley
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Feb 24, 2006 13:32 |  #16

Dave I think that probably is true with a lot of things in the camera world,
we hear something and then we make it true with our own stuff, almost like
a hypochondriac in the digital world ;)

Here is a shot I took of my oldest daughter, her husband and baby Ian, due
this coming May, while it didn't look too bad, the faces were a little out of
focus to me, but, as mentioned, the lens may have some learning curve to
watch for, as her shirt seemed sharp, perhaps they moved their heads just
as it was taken, but I'll work with the new lens more and keep working with it
or send it in for calibrating if I feel it's not up to snuff;

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and this one was a bit better, but then she was in more direct light too;

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G2

5D Mark ii, 17-40L, 70-300L, 100L, Tamron 28-75 f2.8, S100

Umm..He's Sick, My best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with a girl who saw Ferris pass-out at 31 Flavors last night. I guess it's pretty serious……

  
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dave_bass5
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Feb 24, 2006 14:34 |  #17

Nice shots Gary, really like the first one.
did you sharpen them up in PP?
I find i need to do that to all my shots but thats just the way DSLR works from what i have read.


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Canon 5DMKIV | Canon EOS-M50 | Canon 24-70 f/2.8L MKII | 70-300L | 135L f/2.0 | EF-S 10-18 | 40 f/2.8 STM | 35mm f/2 IS | Canon S110 | Fuji F31FD | Canon 580EXII, 270EXII | Yongnuo YN-622C Triggers.

  
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Gary ­ W. ­ Graley
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Feb 24, 2006 14:38 |  #18

Thanks Dave, yes they were sharpened up in Adobe Photoshop 2.0, I have little or no
skills when it comes to that!
When I first got the 20D I was quite distressed as the images were so soft, compared to my Fuji S7000, then I found out that the Fuji did some sharpening in camera and the Canon was expected to be post processed, whew! That's being a new guy on the block...
G2


5D Mark ii, 17-40L, 70-300L, 100L, Tamron 28-75 f2.8, S100

Umm..He's Sick, My best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with a girl who saw Ferris pass-out at 31 Flavors last night. I guess it's pretty serious……

  
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JohnnyBlood
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Feb 24, 2006 15:10 as a reply to  @ Gary W. Graley's post |  #19
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I think this photograph, one of the first I took with this lens, can help explain the focusing concerns people have with this lens. Look at the #30 and then look at the rest of the numbers:

Camera: Canon EOS 20D
Exposure: 0.02 sec (1/50)
Aperture: f/1.8
ISO Speed: 200

IMAGE: http://static.flickr.com/29/65173761_d52a92d727_b.jpg

You see, I untintentionally allowed the auto focus to hone in on the closes object to the camera...in this case it was the tag with the # 30 on it. It's about 2 or 3 inches closer to the camera than the rest of the numbers. You can see how focused the 30 is, and how soft the other numbers are. I found that using A-DEP on my Canon 20D helps solve this when using larger aperatures, and being smarter how I focus.

I suspect this is issue true of all very fast lenses. I've read of similar problems with the Leica 50mm f/1.0 Noctilux-M, which has a huge cult following and produces amazing bokeh. Figuring out what DOF you need on a very fast camera when wide open seems to be something important. I've never taken a photography course, but that's how I explain this phenomenon.

This is an example of why many have complained here about front-focusing here. I think they are letting their auto focus hone in something other than what they should be focusing on. Am I all wet?

http://www.flickr.com/​photos/latitudes/ (external link)

Canon 5D (external link) & 20D (external link)

Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 (external link)
Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 (external link), 16-35mm f/2.8L (external link), 24-105mm f/4L (external link), 35mm f/1.4L (external link), 50mm f/1.8 II (external link), 85mm f/1.8 (external link), 100mm f/2.8 (external link)
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC (external link), 120-300mm f/2.8 APO EX DG (external link)
Other Carl Zeiss Flektogon 35mm f/2.8 (external link), Asahi Pentax Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (external link), Jupiter9 85mm f/2 (external link)

  
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PeteNJ
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Feb 24, 2006 16:06 as a reply to  @ JohnnyBlood's post |  #20

Would you guys recommend the 35mm 1.4 over the Canon 50mm 1.4 for indoor low light use with a 1.6x crop camera?


Canon 50D
Sigma 30mm f1.4
| Canon 70-200mm f2.8 L | Tamron 28-75 f2.8 | Tokina 12-24 f4
Canon Speedlite 430EX

  
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SeanH
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Mar 03, 2006 14:36 as a reply to  @ post 1220438 |  #21

Skippy29 wrote:
Ditto.
I love mine, it's a great lens, especially for $400. Gives my friend's $1200 35L a run for it's money.

Really.........funny, I don't remeber comparing shots yet ???? :wink:


7D ......waiting on the 5D3
10-22, 17-40 4.0 L, 24-70 2.8L, 70-200 2.8L, 2 X 580EX's

  
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Gary ­ W. ­ Graley
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Mar 03, 2006 14:49 |  #22

Going on my Second copy of this lens, first one had worse focusing issues
but this one also does, focus on a person's face and it's out of focus
drives me a little bonkers, so I did a soup can test
with the camera on a tripod, MLU and Self Timer

First shot was at f1.4 you can see the can in the foreground on the right
is in more focus than the one centered where focus was said to be
attained. Both images are straight from the camera just cropped
and reduced in order to upload to view.

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and here is another at f2

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As you can see, stopped down a little and it "looks" like the target is some
what in focus but you can see the can on the right is far more in focus than
the center one.

I moved the outer cans forward in order to see the front focusing problem.


Here is a shot taken, you can just about see that the bill of his hat is really
in focus and not the eyes as I focused on

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I also double checked that my focus spot in the camera was set for the
center and not the outer ones. I also tried my 17-40 set to about 30mm
and it focused perfectly on the center without any trouble...

I'm sending this in to Sigma today for calibration.

G2

5D Mark ii, 17-40L, 70-300L, 100L, Tamron 28-75 f2.8, S100

Umm..He's Sick, My best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with a girl who saw Ferris pass-out at 31 Flavors last night. I guess it's pretty serious……

  
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Ronald ­ S. ­ Jr.
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Mar 03, 2006 14:53 as a reply to  @ PeteNJ's post |  #23

PeteNJ wrote:
Would you guys recommend the 35mm 1.4 over the Canon 50mm 1.4 for indoor low light use with a 1.6x crop camera?

If $1,100 isn't a problem? You betcha I would. Sharper, more colorful, more contrasty, better built, and hey...it's got a red ring on the end! :lol:

It's a nicer focal length, too. I find the 50 to be a bit too long for "everything". I can do most everything with the 35L.

Now...I'm gonna assume you meant to say 30 1.4 (since that's the lens we're talking about here). I'd still recommend it over the 50, but of course that depends on you getting a sharp, reliable focusing copy.


Mac users swear by their computers. PC users swear at theirs.

  
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jesusdelallata
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Mar 04, 2006 11:00 |  #24

I saw this the 30mm at the pro camera store today and I fell in love. It is well built, focuses fast and just feels right. I'm going to seriously think about this one. This is a great focal length for my digital rebel xt for full length portraits, etc. I've been thinking about the Canon 28mm f1.8 USM, but many say that it's not as sharp as the Canon 50mm 1.4.

For those of you who have this Sigma 30mm and the Canon 50mm f1.4 USM...how does the Sigma compare? Thanks in advance for your response.


Jesus De La Llata
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LightRules
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Mar 04, 2006 11:38 as a reply to  @ jesusdelallata's post |  #25

jesusdelallata wrote:
For those of you who have this Sigma 30mm and the Canon 50mm f1.4 USM...how does the Sigma compare? Thanks in advance for your response.

My most used lens, and my 50f1.4 sits in the bag

http://www.pbase.com/f​stopjojo/5030 (external link)




  
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jesusdelallata
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Mar 04, 2006 12:28 as a reply to  @ LightRules's post |  #26

fStopJojo wrote:
My most used lens, and my 50f1.4 sits in the bag

http://www.pbase.com/f​stopjojo/5030 (external link)

Oh boy. Coming from someone as experienced as you, I'd have to say it's going to immediately go on the wish list. :)


Jesus De La Llata
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JohnnyBlood
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Mar 04, 2006 12:31 |  #27
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Gary, I think your soup can photos indicate a user error and not a problem with the lens. I could be wrong, and don't get mad, I'm just trying to help (this coming from an amateur).

The Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC at 1.4, as it is in the first photo, has such a shallow DOF that certain things in the frame may be more out of focus. Look at my post above your post with all of the numbers in it. Because of the shallow DOF the can on the right is more in focus than the can in the middle? Why? It is closer to your lens. Look at the curvature of the can. The further away the sides of the cans are, the less in focus they are. It is obvious that the can on the right is closer to your camera, and thus more in focus. Predictably, in photo # 2, using an aperture setting of 2.0 the cans are clearer. That is to be expected. If I'm all wet on this analysis please tell me.

Like I said above, you really need to know what you want to focus on when using an extremely low aperture setting. Failing to do so will result is some blur, which can be cool in some circumstances and not-so-cool in other cases. But this phenomenon occurs with any lens. It is only accentuated with such a fast lens. With a super, super fast lens like the Leica 50mm f/1.0 Noctilux-M, the DOF is even shallower and even more tricky. Talk to anyone who has used a Noctilux and I think they will tell you it is an incredibly tricky lens to use. But the bokeh on it is incredible. That's a similar trade-off you have with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC. And your assumption that the lens is faulty and your complaint is similar to those other people who have given up on this lens. You need to use it much more before you call it a faulty lens. Use the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC as your primary lens for two months, I am told, and you will learn more about photography than anyone can ever teach you.


http://www.flickr.com/​photos/latitudes/ (external link)

Canon 5D (external link) & 20D (external link)

Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 (external link)
Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 (external link), 16-35mm f/2.8L (external link), 24-105mm f/4L (external link), 35mm f/1.4L (external link), 50mm f/1.8 II (external link), 85mm f/1.8 (external link), 100mm f/2.8 (external link)
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC (external link), 120-300mm f/2.8 APO EX DG (external link)
Other Carl Zeiss Flektogon 35mm f/2.8 (external link), Asahi Pentax Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (external link), Jupiter9 85mm f/2 (external link)

  
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mikez
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Mar 04, 2006 12:54 |  #28

Hey Gary, those shots are great. I was just wondering if you use flash on those pictures? (sorry, I'm a noob.)




  
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mbze430
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Mar 04, 2006 13:24 |  #29

I sorta wanted to know how well this lens is. I was at a fashion show this past weekend, and it was a runway/catwalk deal. The photographer next to me had a 20D or 10D, with a Sigma 30MM... At first I was going to ask him to see his shots. But the whole time he was fiddling with everything on his camera. I think he might have only taken like 20pix. So I figure I don't want to bother him, since he's obviously having a bad day.


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Gary ­ W. ­ Graley
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Mar 04, 2006 17:16 as a reply to  @ JohnnyBlood's post |  #30

JohnnyBlood wrote:
Gary, I think your soup can photos indicate a user error and not a problem with the lens. I could be wrong, and don't get mad, I'm just trying to help (this coming from an amateur).

The Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC at 1.4, as it is in the first photo, has such a shallow DOF that certain things in the frame may be more out of focus. Look at my post above your post with all of the numbers in it. Because of the shallow DOF the can on the right is more in focus than the can in the middle? Why? It is closer to your lens. Look at the curvature of the can. The further away the sides of the cans are, the less in focus they are. It is obvious that the can on the right is closer to your camera, and thus more in focus. Predictably, in photo # 2, using an aperture setting of 2.0 the cans are clearer. That is to be expected. If I'm all wet on this analysis please tell me.

Like I said above, you really need to know what you want to focus on when using an extremely low aperture setting. Failing to do so will result is some blur, which can be cool in some circumstances and not-so-cool in other cases. But this phenomenon occurs with any lens. It is only accentuated with such a fast lens. With a super, super fast lens like the Leica 50mm f/1.0 Noctilux-M, the DOF is even shallower and even more tricky. Talk to anyone who has used a Noctilux and I think they will tell you it is an incredibly tricky lens to use. But the bokeh on it is incredible. That's a similar trade-off you have with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC. And your assumption that the lens is faulty and your complaint is similar to those other people who have given up on this lens. You need to use it much more before you call it a faulty lens. Use the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC as your primary lens for two months, I am told, and you will learn more about photography than anyone can ever teach you.

Well, won't get mad but in your photo the object you focused on, the middle one is nice and sharp right?
Well I focused on the middle can which is set back from the other two cans, camera said it achieved focus but in reality the focus was more in front of where I had focused, so that's called front focusing, the second shot shows it stopped down a little and now that can in the middle is some what sharp, but not truely sharp, again very carefully setup on the tripod, mirror lockup, self timer to prevent any intervention of me, and when I shot the same setup with my other lens, the 17-40 set at about 30mm the center can is perfectly focused, so, user error, doesn't appear to me that way, I've shot a lot of shots with other cameras/lens and when a lens provides me out of focus images repeatedly I don't think it's user error in that case. I understand the slim bit at f1.4 and would watch for that but, at the point of focus it still should be sharp, not that far in front.
I'll hopefully get a lens back calibrated that works great and will post what happens, again, when I talked with the tech, I could almost hear him nodding his head as he said just send it, no problem, sounded like they have had this issue before and can easily correct it.
I hope!
G2

edited to add, that Johnny you pointed out that the cans on the sides are closer to me, if they were not, you would not see any front focusing as there would be nothing to see, so that is why they were moved toward the camera in order to see the area where the real focusing was taking place.
If the lens was Back focusing, the sides of the middle can would have shown in focus.
hope that explains what the images were trying to represent...
G2


5D Mark ii, 17-40L, 70-300L, 100L, Tamron 28-75 f2.8, S100

Umm..He's Sick, My best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with a girl who saw Ferris pass-out at 31 Flavors last night. I guess it's pretty serious……

  
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