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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 01 Jan 2015 (Thursday) 10:09
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Using a Sekonic L-308S with Canon ST-E3-RT?

 
sml
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Jan 01, 2015 10:09 |  #1

I use Canon 600EX-RT flashes and use the Canon ST-E3-RT to trigger them remotely. I do not use any third party radio triggers (such as Pocket Wizards) and don't intend to.
I have considered getting a flash meter in the past, but the ones I've looked at seem to be most effective and worthwhile for those users with Pocket Wizards, etc.
But, I just saw a video on Adorama the other day with Gavin Hoey where he uses a Sekonic L-308S (rather than the more expensive and "full featured" meters) and I started to wonder if that might or might not be a suitable meter to use with my setup. I realize it won't work to trigger the flashes, but I can still use it to get flash readings if I trigger the flashes....right?
Does anyone have any experience or feedback using the Sekonic L-308S with the Canon ST-E2-RT and the 600 EX-RT flashes?
Thanks...and Happy New Year!


Steve L
5D Mark III, 5D Mark II, 24mm f1.4L II, 50mm f1.2L, 85mm f1.2L II, 100mm 2.8 Macro, 17-35mm f2.8 L, 24-105mm f4 L, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II L, 75-300mm f4-5.6 IS. Canon 600EX-RT, ST-E3-RT. Gitzo 2531, RRS BH-40 Ballhead.
www.stephenmlevinphoto​s.com

  
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gonzogolf
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Jan 01, 2015 10:17 |  #2

A few thoughts. You dont have to trigger the flashes from the flashmeter. The meter can be set to measure the next flash it sees (within a certain time window). So you can fire the flashes from the ste3 and measure with the meter or simply fire the shutter once. Of couse the flashes have to be in manual modersther than ETTL to be metered. .




  
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sml
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Jan 01, 2015 10:54 as a reply to  @ gonzogolf's post |  #3

Thanks, gonzogolf.
I think what I'm asking is whether not being able to fire the flash from the meter is a big deal. Or on the other side of the coin, is there any benefit to using a meter with the Canon flash setup I use. What I'm really wondering (I guess) is "how" I would trigger the ST-E3-RT from the subject (while I'm holding the meter) rather than from the flash source.
(And I should point out that I usually shoot in manual "inside." Thanks for mentioning that!)


Steve L
5D Mark III, 5D Mark II, 24mm f1.4L II, 50mm f1.2L, 85mm f1.2L II, 100mm 2.8 Macro, 17-35mm f2.8 L, 24-105mm f4 L, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II L, 75-300mm f4-5.6 IS. Canon 600EX-RT, ST-E3-RT. Gitzo 2531, RRS BH-40 Ballhead.
www.stephenmlevinphoto​s.com

  
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iTookMyShot
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Jan 01, 2015 11:01 as a reply to  @ sml's post |  #4

You could use a 2nd STE3-RT or 2nd 600EX-RT. A pricy way but can be done


5D mkIV, 2x)7D mkII, 500 f4L IS mkII, 100-400L IS mkII, 70-200 2.8L IS mkII, 24-70 2.8L mkII, 16-35 2.8L mkIII, 100 2.8L IS, 600EX-RT x4

  
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sml
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Jan 01, 2015 11:20 as a reply to  @ iTookMyShot's post |  #5

Interesting, but YIKES! That might defeat the purpose of getting the cheaper meter.
I'm thinking this idea is a "no go." I suppose that's ok...I've never used a flash meter, but I thought it might streamline my flash work.
Thanks.


Steve L
5D Mark III, 5D Mark II, 24mm f1.4L II, 50mm f1.2L, 85mm f1.2L II, 100mm 2.8 Macro, 17-35mm f2.8 L, 24-105mm f4 L, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II L, 75-300mm f4-5.6 IS. Canon 600EX-RT, ST-E3-RT. Gitzo 2531, RRS BH-40 Ballhead.
www.stephenmlevinphoto​s.com

  
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gonzogolf
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Jan 01, 2015 11:28 as a reply to  @ sml's post |  #6

Even a more expensive meter isnt hoing to trigger your flashes, but again, they dont need to. Just use your camera, you are over complicating this.




  
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OceanRipple*
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Jan 01, 2015 12:28 |  #7

+1 to Gonzo

I use a very simple meter with Odins controlling in M flash. Canon's RT will be sufficiently similar.

The incident meter has to go 'under the chin' or similar - I'm holding it, so the camera goes too. So, ready the meter and press the shutter button. (All Groups or just one at a time - that's up to you.) Don't have any Group set to ETTL as the slave(s) pre-flash will cause trouble.

(With Odin kit, depending on the firmware, there can be one extra step - but Canon's RT tech won't need that.)




  
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iTookMyShot
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Jan 01, 2015 12:36 |  #8

I guess you could use the self timer, 10 second delay to get into position
(Cheapest option)


5D mkIV, 2x)7D mkII, 500 f4L IS mkII, 100-400L IS mkII, 70-200 2.8L IS mkII, 24-70 2.8L mkII, 16-35 2.8L mkIII, 100 2.8L IS, 600EX-RT x4

  
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gonzogolf
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Jan 01, 2015 12:43 as a reply to  @ iTookMyShot's post |  #9

If the lights are off camera the placement of the camers when you trigger the flashes is irrelevant. no need for delay.




  
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iTookMyShot
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Jan 01, 2015 12:50 |  #10

I believe he was asking about being able to take a meter reading from the subject and having flash fire while in that position away from camera.


5D mkIV, 2x)7D mkII, 500 f4L IS mkII, 100-400L IS mkII, 70-200 2.8L IS mkII, 24-70 2.8L mkII, 16-35 2.8L mkIII, 100 2.8L IS, 600EX-RT x4

  
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Jan 01, 2015 13:01 as a reply to  @ iTookMyShot's post |  #11

Perhaps, but the underlying premise that the camera has to be in one fixed place is questionable.




  
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sml
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Jan 02, 2015 08:51 as a reply to  @ iTookMyShot's post |  #12

Yes, that is correct, Digitally_Altered.
And yes, gonzogolf, I think I am overcomplicating this thing. I think I was overly influenced by the video I saw with the guy triggering the flash with the meter.
Thanks for all the comments, feedback, and suggestions.
Bottom line...I should probably just get the (simpler) meter and figure out the easiest way to get it into my workflow...right?


Steve L
5D Mark III, 5D Mark II, 24mm f1.4L II, 50mm f1.2L, 85mm f1.2L II, 100mm 2.8 Macro, 17-35mm f2.8 L, 24-105mm f4 L, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II L, 75-300mm f4-5.6 IS. Canon 600EX-RT, ST-E3-RT. Gitzo 2531, RRS BH-40 Ballhead.
www.stephenmlevinphoto​s.com

  
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Jan 02, 2015 10:19 as a reply to  @ sml's post |  #13

For the price difference I would still try to find an L358 if you can find one. It gives you the ambient flash ratio which can be very useful outside the studio. But yes you'll find it easy to get any meter into your workflow once youn get it into your hands.




  
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gremlin75
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Jan 02, 2015 12:09 |  #14

I doesn't matter what flash set up you're using, a meter can speed up the process of getting the correct flash output. Though I'm assuming that you're talking about using the meter with manual settings (in ettl an incident meter will do nothing for you)

To use a flash meter:Keep the trigger/camera with trigger attached with you, hold the flash meter where you need it (or have your subject hold it if it's a person), press the test button on you trigger, read the meter.

As simple as that!




  
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sml
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Jan 03, 2015 20:11 as a reply to  @ gremlin75's post |  #15

Hmmmm...just looked at the link to buy the L-308S. But, now I'm wondering if I should get the Sekonic Litemaster Pro L-478D for only about 50 bucks more. Will I get "something" for that 50 bucks?
(I think the Sekonic Litemaster Pro L-478DR gives Pocket Wizard capability, but I don't need that...this meter doesn't have that feature. But, maybe the touch screen is an advantage???)
Thanks.


Steve L
5D Mark III, 5D Mark II, 24mm f1.4L II, 50mm f1.2L, 85mm f1.2L II, 100mm 2.8 Macro, 17-35mm f2.8 L, 24-105mm f4 L, 70-200mm f2.8 IS II L, 75-300mm f4-5.6 IS. Canon 600EX-RT, ST-E3-RT. Gitzo 2531, RRS BH-40 Ballhead.
www.stephenmlevinphoto​s.com

  
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Using a Sekonic L-308S with Canon ST-E3-RT?
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