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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Digital Cameras 
Thread started 14 Jan 2015 (Wednesday) 05:33
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SEKONIC L-308S Light meter, off camera flash, Manual mode

 
DigitalDon
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Jan 14, 2015 05:33 |  #1

Does (spot, partial, evaluative, center weight metering) effect setting entered in the camera from the SEKONIC light meter in Manual mode? If so which metering mode should I use with the SEKONIC meter?

Thanks
Don



(EOS RebelT3i EF-S 18 - 55 IS II Kit) (EFS 55 - 250 mm lense f/4-5.6 IS II) (YONGNUO YN 565EX flash)

  
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Jan 14, 2015 06:19 |  #2

None of the camera metering modes mean anything if you are in manual and setting your own iso, ss and aperture via a hand held meter reading.


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gonzogolf
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Jan 14, 2015 07:07 |  #3

Manual mode ignores the camera metering. Its just there as an advisory function.




  
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Jan 14, 2015 07:13 |  #4

Yes in the situation where you are using an external lightmeter, and setting all of the exposure variables yourself then you simply ignore the built in camera metering. I find an external incident lightmeter very useful in lots of situations, not just for external manual flash.

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Jan 14, 2015 07:45 |  #5

DigitalDon wrote in post #17381623 (external link)
Does (spot, partial, evaluative, center weight metering) effect setting entered in the camera from the SEKONIC light meter in Manual mode? If so which metering mode should I use with the SEKONIC meter?

What others here have been telling you is true unless your camera has the ability to use Auto ISO and you turn that function on. "Manual" plus Auto ISO is no longer truly a manual mode. However, having the dial in "Manual" with Auto ISO turned off, you have total control of the exposure settings.


Skip Douglas
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DigitalDon
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Jan 15, 2015 09:34 |  #6

Thanks, I knew I could count on you guys :-)
One more question, when taking portraits with out to much back ground and shallow DOF, instead of single point focus can I use all focal points to get better focus?
May just be my imagination but I tried it and it seems to work better than the single focus point.
Thanks again for the help
Don



(EOS RebelT3i EF-S 18 - 55 IS II Kit) (EFS 55 - 250 mm lense f/4-5.6 IS II) (YONGNUO YN 565EX flash)

  
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gonzogolf
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Jan 15, 2015 09:44 as a reply to  @ DigitalDon's post |  #7

Your camera can only focus on one point, so only use one point. If you are getting better resukts using multiple points you are doing something wrong




  
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DigitalDon
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Jan 15, 2015 10:51 as a reply to  @ gonzogolf's post |  #8

Hi Gonzogolf
Could it be that I am understanding a little more about the focal length of my lens , I have been trying distance to subject using my laser measure, using the DOF calculator, using more of the middle of the lens(18/55 and 55/250) on my 50mm f/5.6 staying with in f/2,2 to f/11

I hope what I wrote above is right, I am tired of being stupid and still don't have a clue.:-)



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gonzogolf
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Jan 15, 2015 11:35 as a reply to  @ DigitalDon's post |  #9

Don,
I'm not really sure how any of the above really comes into play here. Regardless of distance, focal length, or aperture your lens can only focus on a single precise point at a time. Lenses do have sweet spots, usually they are sharper stopped down a couple of stops from wide open, and depending on the zoom range there may be a point where its sharper. The Depth of field will give an aera of acceptable focus, but that doesnt change the need to select a single accurate focus point to start with.

It might be fun to play with the laser range finder but youn eed to rely on the accuracy of your cameras autofucus system for reliable results.




  
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SEKONIC L-308S Light meter, off camera flash, Manual mode
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